When discussing soil organic matter fractions or percentages it is critical to distinguish what is being reported or discussed. Is it volume percent or weight percent that is being discussed? Soil labs and soil scientists commonly report and discuss soil fractions on a dry weight basis. That would include the familiar recommendations for soil OM in the range of 5-10%, as well as lab reported test results of organic matter. That is a weight fraction, based upon oven dried weights. The bulk density of soils and organic materials is commonly reported on a dry weight basis. A fairly typical, average mineral soil bulk density is ~ 2600 lbs/cubic yard. The typical bulk density, again dry weight basis, for common soil organic amendments (e.g. compost) is ~ 1,000 lbs per cubic yard. The typical OM bulk density is only ~40% of that of a baseline mineral soil, and the range can be about 25% to 50%. As an example, consider the johnhughes 25% compost number as a volume fraction - mix 1 yard of compost (dry bulk density 1,000 lbs/yard) with 3 yards of mineral soil (dry bulk density 2600 lbs/yard) to produce 4 yards of soil, total weight 8800lbs. Assume everything is at a comparable moisture level. While the mix fraction was 25% by volume, the weight fraction will be ~ 11%, and that is what a soil lab test of OM would ideally report. As a general rule-of-thumb for soil mixtures, the net weight fraction (percent) of organic matter will be ~ 1/2 of the volume fraction, again assuming similar moisture levels for the mineral and organic phases. Hence the familiar 5-10% soil OM recommendation translates to 10-20 % soil OM by volume. So if you wanted to increase soil OM by 7.5% (weight) you would add 15% OM by volume, or nearly 1-inch of OM on top then mixed into 6 inches of underlying soil. That's not allowing for the issues associated with testing for OM. This post was edited by TXEB on Fri, Sep 6, 13 at 0:32

I think a Redbud would be a good choice. They are tough trees and have the advantage over crabs of not dropping fruit. The suggestions of Honey Locust or Kentucky Coffee Trees for shade are also good. I prefer the Kentucky Coffee tree over the Honey Locust simply because the locust is so commonly planted. If you go for a locust, there is a variety called Shade Master that gets good size in a reasonable time and gives good shade. For evergreens, for something a little different, consider White Fir, Incense Cedar or Western Red Cedar. The Osage Orange has been mentioned in this thread. I would whole heartedly second that nomination. This is good looking tree that is tough as nails. You would probably have to start it from seed as few nurseries handle them. Or you may be able to find seedlings online. Seeds are readily available online. It is used as a windbreak tree on the high plains so it can handle wind and some drought. It has a taproot going down 20 feet sometimes. Another flowering tree that is worth considering is the Yellowwood. It blooms in late spring so the flowers are not usually hit by frost. They have the grey bark of a Beech and leaves that look like Walnut. Again, you would most likely have to get them online.

PMB, I don't know if you are simply on a rant about these "industries", or want to know what is in VF-11 because you are interested in trying it out. If it is the former, please go to the Hot Topics forum. If it's the latter, Hawaii50 posted this from her conversation with Eleanor. So as Denise said, she is very sweet and will tell you what the ingredients are. This quote from Hawaii50 (on a post here) lists a bunch of the ingredients: "Eleanor said that for best results VF-11 should be used regularly by itself without any other fertilizer. It may be used solely as a foliar spray. It may also be used on roots by watering, though I inferred from what she said that this would result in higher costs that might not be worth the added benefits. VF-11 balances the nutrients that plants obtain. It also hardens plant cells and seals in amino acids, thereby frustrating insects such as white fly. The N-P-K is .15 - .85 - .55 (hundredths). She got the formula from a "cantankerous" elderly chemist who grew healthy plants, including tomato plants that were 30 ft. long with the formula. She originally marketed it for houseplants, but now farmers are interested in it. VF-11 does not fit into any of the categories of plant products used by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, so, for example, she could not call it "plant food." Instead the label says it is "for plants." Also, she is not allowed to list the ingredients. She was once fined $35,000 for saying something like it "gets rid of bugs the natural way" because, to the Department of AgricultureÂs way of thinking, this would make it a pesticide. "VF" means verticillium/fusarium, signifying that it creates disease resistance. "11" signifies it has eleven ingredients. These ingredients include iron, boron, copper, zinc, and molybdenum (I couldnÂt write fast enough to get all of them) in an electrolyte balanced solution." Gabi

I highly recommend reading the Stemma Journal issues that are available on the Apodagis Hoya site. There is an entire issue dedicated to rooting Hoyas. Hoyas for the most part are easy to root as long as you have warmth, bright but indirect light, and high humidity. Soaking cuttings is only necessary if they are badly dehydrated. Soaking your cutting that had mealies was a good choice. If you already have the cuttings in a mini greenhouse then you don't need them in a bag as well. Maybe I read that part wrong? When you pot the cuttings up water them well until water drips from the bottom of the pot. Put the cuttings in their pots into the mini greenhouse and then don't water them again unless they look like the potting mix is drying out. Misting is great at this time. The simplest approach is to get a bunch of 4" pots and root each cutting in one, right in the mix you intend to grow in. I think moving from rooting containers into another final pot is just adding a step that increases the chances of damaging the new roots. I always root cuttings into the mix I plan on growing them in. I also keep them in the rooting tank for as long as I can which is usually about a month or more because then I know they are well rooted and often times showing new growth. Good luck with your cuttings. Mike