By far the the biggest improvement I have made in houseplant care is hydroculture.

No soil pests to deal with, no worries about too much/too little water, no wondering if the potting mix is 'spent' and needs to be changed.

Convert the plants (and some may die, it's just life) and once done simply add an inch of water, add a weak fert in the proper season and that's it. Evah! I grow everything other than some really large plants I have had since forever (that I don't want to risk to the conversion process) in hydroculture and I now spend exponentially less time to water all of them than I used to watering just a couple that had to be brought to the sink and left to drain.

Since switching to hydroculture I have never looked back except to occasionally think "if only I knew about this sooner".

My own answer is, getting a detachable showerhead. All of my plants now get watered in the bathtub, sprayed liberally from all directions, left to drain, and then put back in position. The benefits:

They all look better, because dust doesn't build up on the leaves.

Pest problems have been more or less eliminated; any pests on the plant get washed away in the stream of water and go down the drain.

I don't have to worry about whether or not the whole root ball gets wet, because I can soak the plant until I'm sure it did.

I don't have to worry about the plant standing in water in a saucer: the saucer goes under it when the plant is finished dripping.

The humidity-lovers get that little extra kick of humidity, for however long I want to leave them in there.

Definitely hydroculture. After almost twenty years of soil-growing, I decided to try something new with my plants. For the past three years I've concentrated entirely on hydroculture. I have about 80 plants growing in this method right now in my home, and I've converted well over 100 into the system. It's probably the best thing I ever did with my plants. I don't have one single soil-grown plant in my home anymore, and my plants are all doing wonderfully. Even my cacti & succulents are growing in this style. After having tried both ways, I can honestly say I would never go back to soil-grown indoors.

GardenWeb.

Duh.

;)

Since I am a sort of newbie to house plants Garden web has changed my life.I now h20 just like you do mr subjunctive.I use fish emulsion like hopefulauthor so maybe I will never have scale.I also use half perlite and half potting soil when I repot. I hope to get more helpful hints from this thread.Oh,I now dilute my fertilizer.I have have been educated!!!

Watering ONLY when dry, not sorta dry, not mostly dry, not slightly dry or kind of dry - JUST DRY! Of course this may not work on plants that supposedly like to stay wet, but I don't have any plants with that unusal need. THis method also requires daily checking of the soil, becuase you don't want the plant to sit there dry for too long, some suffer worse than others if that happens.

Water only when dry, that is my big secret. I also like hydroculture, but lack the funds at this time to convert - I have a few in hydro pots, hoyas, and will add more, but because of the chance of them dying when you convert, there are alot of plants that I will leave as is, I don't want to risk losing some of the less common, harder to acquire plants I have accumulatd over the years.

Up to this point, I've never had any desire to try hydroculture although I notice pothos, philos, syngoniums grow well in water. It's nice to hear that some folks really like that method.

Just like christianme, I think learning about mixing potting soil with perlite has made a world of difference for me. Just yesterday, in HD, a guy stopped me to ask what potting soil I recommended for a rooted cutting he had gotten and he really didn't know what the plant was so I suggested the all purpose potting soil and a bag of perlite. He said, "you mean I have to buy 2 kinds" and I tried to explain it to him but I noticed he just bought the regular soil. Maybe he will learn, maybe not.

I've learned a lot of tips from the folks here at GW and I'm thankful I no longer have a black thumb. :)

Susan

I am fairly new to houseplants, but what I have found that made the biggest difference is all the help I have gotten here at gardenweb. Most important tip was fertilizing. I had thought that well, the soil probably had all the nutrients the plants needed. After using fish emulsion, I noticed a big difference in my foliage plants in terms of new growth, and after using a weak fertilizer on my six AV's, they bloom all the time. I know some folks don't fertilize and have wonderful, lush plants but its really made a difference in my plants.

Eileen

I've been wanting to experiment with hydroculture using 5 or 6 plants of mine. The closest place to me that sells hydroton has 10L bags for $12. Is that a good price?

If not can perlite or small lava rocks from the hardware store be used?

I get hydroton in 50L bags for $25-$30 so I would think $12 for 10L is probably the going rate for that size.

Perlite and lava rocks don't wick water as well, but there are those who use them. Personally I would go with the hydroton and be done, it works really well and seems to be the standard by which others are compared.

Amany, that's a fair/standard price for hydroton. One thing to bear in mind is that it's a one-time purchase. The clay pellets never wear out and never need to be replaced. You pay once and use them forever. I don't use perlite or lava rocks for my plants, only hydroton, so I can't comment on their success rate.

Aquarium gravel is excellent, but I'd mix it with perlite for weight problems.

Thank you so much. I'm sorry for changing the topic...

Yesterday I spent about 30 minutes reading some of the information on waterroots.com. I might be starting with my five or six plants soon. I'd work on letting them grow water roots first. Then get things set up.

Thanks again!

Well, not going to say it totally changed MY life, but here's some pointers that improved my plants' lives.

I used to kill tropical hibiscus..was lucky if they lasted 3 months..started using hib fertilizer, now hibs live for yrs.

I make sure soil is dried between waterings. I used to stick finger in soil to test, but now look and know it's time to water. Lifting pot indicates whether soil is dry. Some ppl need water guages to test..

When I began growing plants in the 70's, I potted w/the only packaged soil around..that's about the time I poured into house plant books..learned a lot about various soils. I think any home gardener should either purchase or borrow books from the library..the good thing about owning your own books, is u can underline important facts.
But my point about soil is I discovered most packaged soils were too heavy, so using other mediums were necessary, and the reason I started mixing my own. The main mediums I now use are potting soil, peat, Vermiulite, perlite, sand, orchid mix, and bird grit..Different soils are used according to plant types.

In winter, a humidfer is mandatory..Especially in areas where we turn on heat. Pebble trays, misting, and showering are important helping plants look their best.

Some ppl will disagree, but I find Superthrive beneficial to all plants. ST is NOT a fertizer but a hormone meant to use w/fertilizers.

ID'ing plants is most important..that's another reason plant books come in handy..By being able to name our plants, it helps with their needs.

Proper light..by knowing a plant type, most books/internet/GW ppl, assist when it comes to proper lighting conditions..For instance, if one lives in a house w/north, obstucted buildings, it's not a good idea buying a sun loving plant such as cactus, citrus, etc.
On the other hand, buying a low-light plant and setting in a direct south sunny window can kill a plant. Unless it's set several feet away from harsh rays.

I've also learned when taking plants outside to do so gradually. Acclimate.

Though I do this with many plants including C&S's, (I don't recommend to newbies) plants should be planted in pots w/drainage holes. Make sure holes aren't clogged.

When repotting, pots should be clean..Many books are extreme, stating pots should be sterilized in bleach, lol, but I find cleaning in sink w/soapy water does the trick.

Stuffy, hot rooms lead to insects and dry leaves, especailly for high-humidity loving plants like Marantas, Calatheas and Palms. This is where humidifiers work..(misting, trays and showers, too.) Using a fan/s in winter helps circulate air. If it's not too cold, under 40, open window about an hour or so a day.

Growing African Violets can be fun..most ppl buy and plant in ornate, ceramic pots, often too large..I found out the hard way they do best in 4" plastic pots they came in..No, pot isn't a pretty sight but I care more about AV than container..when I left AV's in their original pots, they'd bloom yr round..yes, even in winter..And honestly, since they were flowering I'd fertilize during winter months. My dh insisted they needed nicer pots, so I bought fancier containers..and guess what? They no longer bloomed like they did before repotting..I think they're going back in the ugly pots..lol

Reading instructions on fertilzier containers is very important. Fertilize during growing season and use correct dossage..I also discovered via plant books, one shouldn't overfeed..in fact, they state using less fertilizer than manufacturer suggests..afterall, they're only out to sell their product..

It's difficult controlling temps in winter (who wants to be cold?) a plant room shouldn't exceed 68-70 during the day, and 50-60 at night..though the lower temp is rare, since most ppl including myself likes warmth. Thank God I've 2 rooms that are semi-unheated..Most of my plants are placed in these rooms. Keep as cool as possible..

Checking for pests is also mandatory, especially when we buy a new plant..books say to isolate 1-3 months before setting with other plants. If you have the room, it's a great idea..Since I don't have extra space, I place plant in sink..Sprinkle w/dish soap, kneed leaves, then hose until all signs of soap cleaned. I leave plant in sink overnight, or even up to 2 days..

Azaleas need a cool room in winter..this is where most ppl error and end up tossing their plants. Outside in summer till first frost, or until you see buds..bring indoors, place Azalea in cool to cold room..an east window if sufficient..Place pot on stones w/water. Flowers over winter till spring..After flowers fade, prune top and repot in 1 size larger (plastic pot) in an acidic soil. I fertlize w/azalea fertiler 2-3 times in spring/summer.

Holiday Cactus and Kalanchoes..keep outdoors until first frost..there's no need to worry about covering plants so they receive 'x' amount of daylight hours. After buds set, bring inside, and place in semi-cool, sunny location..

Now that I've written a a short story, lol, and if anyone is still reading, I wish you all luck w/your plants..Toni

The only thing I can say is that light requirements seem to be only a guideline.
But without question, the most success I have had is because of a humidifier at the base of my ficus tree (and I mean tree it is 10 feet tall).
In Ontario, the winters are cold and the furnace runs often and dries things out. I actually keep a humidity reader close to the plant. It is essential.

I'll tell you two things that have made a world of difference to me and my orchids:

1) So when are you supposed to water phals? When the roots turn pewter in color. Now how are you supposed to be able to tell that without digging down into the potting mix a couple of times a week? Clear plastic pots! Genius!

2) My indoor light garden. My apartment doesn't really have a "good" eastern window so light is a problem most of the year. The solution was hanging florescent lights from a wire shelf set-up. But then humidity was a problem, even with a cool-mist humidifier. Every time I opened a window or door, or turned on the heater the humidity would drop to dangerously low levels. I finally wrapped the whole set-up in clear plastic that I'd gotten from some furniture I bought. Now it's like an "indoor greenhouse" and my orchids and their tropical friends are much happier. :)