Daily watering might be too frequent for some trees and not frequent enough for others. Proper watering technique doesn't revolve around a schedule; rather, it is performed on an 'as needed' basis. I will say though, that the question becomes more critical in slower soils (slow-draining, more water-retentive). Soils with a particle size small enough to support perched water present considerable risk of over-watering if you adhere to a schedule. Conversely, as soils become faster, it is less problematic if you adhere to a schedule. As soil particle size becomes large enough that the soil holds no perched water, the danger in watering on a schedule practically disappears. In the same vein, fertilizer is also best delivered on an as needed basis, with qualification. Plants require more nutrients when they are growing robustly than when they are lethargic, so we need to increase the frequency with which we fertilize or increase the solution strength. Fertilizers that derive their N from organic sources, including urea-based fertilizers, should be withheld when soil temperatures are above 80-85* or are below 55* to guard against ammonium toxicity (or switch to a nitrate source of N). There is no harm in fertilizing with low doses each time you water. If the solution strength is appropriate, this keeps nutrient levels in the adequacy range while the low levels of nutrients in the soil solution makes it very easy for the plant to absorb water AND the nutrients dissolved in water. Simplified, our job in providing nutrition to our trees is to make sure all the necessary nutrients are available in the soil in a favorable ratio and at levels low enough they don't impair the osmotic process and high enough to ensure there are no nutritional deficiencies. It's easier than it sounds, btw. Over-watering and over-fertilizing could indirectly contribute to any fungal issues. Plants mount a number of genetically encoded responses to the chemical signals released when they are attacked by disease, ALL of which require energy allocation. In plant cells, there are genes that control proteins functioning in actual defense, sending defense signals/ chemical messengers, altering metabolism, controlling cellular maintenance, regulating photosynthesis, - and many more genes of unknown function. In short, plant energy reallocation is prioritized in the plant's own defense, & other things, like every day metabolism and photosynthesis are put on the back burner. The higher the plants level of energy (the greater it's vitality) and the faster it's metabolism - the faster the response and greater the amount of energy and defense bio-compounds the plant can devote to its own defense. Diminished vitality from bad watering/fertilizing practices = a plant weakened to fungal infection. Plant food is not fertilizer or anything in the soil, plant food is the sugar they make during photosynthesis; but, if fertilizer was plant food, all plants could eat are salts. All the nutrients plants uptake are in salt form. Plants cannot utilize things like fish emulsion, blood meal, or organic soil components UNTIL they are acted upon by soil biota to break them down into elemental forms plants CAN absorb. There is a considerable advantage in having complete control over what nutrients plants get, their ratio (to each other), dosages, and when they get these nutrients. If I had to choose only 1 fertilizer with which I had to fertilize all my plants, I would choose a soluble fertilizer (like Miracle-Gro or others) in a 3:1:2 ratio (24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers) because it provides nutrients in almost exactly the same ratio at which they are actually used by plants. Al

next time.. go buy some small plastic cups.. solo cups ... cut 3 holes in the bottom edge with a razor blade .. and use those ... rather than wax paper boxes ... there is no way to sterilize such ... and we need to know your media ... a very high peat media.. will probably lead to failure ... its probably ground peat.. not iced tea.. once added to water.. dry ice tea will not turn back to powder ... since there is no freeze drying going on ... and did you really mean that watering makes it float in the AIR??? ken

A very tiny fungi, not necessarily bad and some plants actually benefit from them when the fungi has a relationship with the plant's roots to transport nutrients. If the plant is not suffering, I would not worry about it.

many veg are hard to grow indoors ... and especially one.. that grows a large root mass for peanuts .. in a small pot .. you had fun with it.. throw it out.. and try a new devilish experiment ... its simply not worth spending a lot of money on trying to cure it ... its up to you .. but i figure.. if i have to spend $10 on a cure.. or go find another seed for peanuts... why spend the ten bucks... [see what i did there.. lol] now.. read up .. and if you find some common cures.. give them a try .. but if you lose ... so what.. live and learn ... BTW ... part of the problem is .. the mites are sucking the life out of those leaves .. and those leaves themselves.. are never going to 'heal' .... so even even you solve the mite issue... this plant isnt going to be looking any better .. BTW ... you better be checking ALL your plants.. and put this one in isolation [preferably in the garbage can .. lol] ken