New member with a couple of Questions viz fertilizing fruit trees

14 years ago

Greetings,

I am a new member and am not used to this type of discussion, but have a number of fruit tree related questions that might get answered here which, if answered, might be useful to many. Specifically, I have a small orchard in Montana (Yellowstone region, whence the user name) consisting of locally grown trees: 4 pear (3 types); 2 plum, 2 cherry and 1 apple (the tenth tree, an apple, died in 'child-birth,' having produced some fruit in year #1, 2000...)

All the other nine trees have 'took,' and the pears--remarkably, say many--are doing especially well in terms of leafage. They look very healthy, despite my initial reluctance to prune (I know, I know...), and started to produce fruit a few years ago. Much of the crop was devoured by birds during my frequent absences, but so it goes.

This year, I am spending and indeed lavishing much more time on the orchard, whence my questions.

A nephew who deals with olive groves in Turkey advised me that he brings in a tractor three times a year to carve up the soil between his trees every year. In my case, I brought in a rototiller and broke up almost virgin sod, but left everything outside the drip-line plus some more unturned lest I destroy root systems, etc. The (Turkish) idea is that you must areate (sp) the soil, break up bacterial colonies, etc, and this seemed and seems sound to me.

Next, I applied some year old horse manure around the trunks, and then COVERED the drip line area with plastic, which I then covered with multiple strips of wood in a swirl pattern to keep the plastic down and create a dark spot to kill the grass/weeds that I had not rototilled, while leaving a good enough hole around the trunk to allow garden-hose water to irrigate.

(BELIEVE ME, I AM GETTING TO THE POINT!)

An agro-friend stopped by the other night and insisted I remove the plastic; I believe I shall do so, and leave the wooden/dark-spot swirls in place.

But here comes the real question: after describing my various endeavors to an old farmer pal with California vinyard connections, he suggested that I seed the rototilled areas between the trees with either alfalfa or mustard seed as nitrogen fixing agents.

I thought this a wonderful idea--until I started a google search on the Web (which ultimately led me to this site). As for 'mustard seed,' the only references seem to be Biblical, and end up comparing the Kingdom of Heaven to the tree/shrub that grows out of that tiny seed. While conceptually nifty, it is not what I want.

As for alfalfa, while nitrogen fixing, it seems that it is the LAST thing you want in the in-between spaces in your orchard? True? If so, why?

Lastly, what about the kill-the-grass&weeds with plastic strategy mentioned above? If the tree trunks are getting hosed water (and rain when it happens), are they not better off as such rather than having wild grasses leach their drink?

Best Regards

Yellowdirt

PS: the surf of the Net, which I have never done before in this regard, suggests VERY strongly that I should have pH soil tested even before I put in the trees almost ten years ago; rest assured, I shall get that done soonest!

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Comments (5)

Embothrium
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Yes: what you want to add to that yellow dirt, if anything depends on what is already in it.

See what Montana Cooperative Extension has to say about fruit tree production in your area. They can probably also help with soil testing.
alan haigh
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Impermeable plastic sheeting is death to trees and other perrenials because roots are forced to grow too close to the surface and aren't adequately insulated for winter. Or so I was taught, but there must be other problems as well or it would be used in areas where winter is no issue and weeds are the major issue.
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theaceofspades
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Mulching each year with horse manure is very good. Plastic will deprive the roots of oxygen so leave it out. Most any orchard grows grass and planting nitrogen fixing cover crop is probably better. Except that weeds always win out sooner than you expect. That's why they are weeds. In my home orchard I grow a patch of clover where some tall evergreens were that I cut down. I am pulling weeds every other day before they turn to seed. Upstate we plant alfalfa and clover for deer forage. I wouldn't want Elk picking their teeth with my apple stems so I would grow a local grass by your trees.
olpea
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Yellowdirt,

Despite what you've been told, the reason for cultivation between rows is not to break up bacterial colonies, but to reduce certain insect and disease inoculum (it can help reduce disease inoculum, not by breaking up bac. colonies, but by burying last season's leaf litter which can harbor disease).

Clover and alfalfa, while offering a benefit of adding N, have the disadvantage of harboring stink bugs. Around here this is a big problem, but in MT, with less rain, it may not be.

You're on the right track trying to reduce grass/weed competition around your trees, just don't do it with plastic.
marknmt
14 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
Hello Yellowdirt. You live in some wonderful country. I'm your neighbor in the western fringe of the state.

Bob Gough at MSU knows trees and your area. He's very helpful even though quite busy. Here's an google page that shows you more about him and getting in touch with him. I think you'll find him straightforward, to the point, and direct.

Best wishes,

Mark

Here is a link that might be useful: Bob Gough info

New member with a couple of Questions viz fertilizing fruit trees

Comments (5)

Embothrium

alan haigh

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theaceofspades

olpea

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