The procedure you used for setting the main metering screw (adjustable main jet= screw needle on bottom of carb bowl) was acceptable. Were it not for the surging, the following procedure would work. (1)Lightly bottom the main metering screw to its seat (turn CW). (2)Next, turn the screw CCW 1.5 turns. (3)Start engine and run til it reaches operating temperature. (4)Holding throttle in wide open position (max no load RPM), continue turning the Main metering screw CCW until the engine just begins to lose RPM, or you see black smoke in the exhaust (or both). (5)Now, begin turning the screw CW and carefully count the number of turns you make as you go. When the engine RPM once again begins to drop, stop turning (you can stop the engine too). (6)Now, turn the screw CCW exactly half the number of turns you counted. This is the "median adjustment point" for fuel volume. The fuel metering must now be "fine tuned" to the working conditions (loaded operation) by actually putting the engine to work and then reading the color of the spark plug afterward. This is done by running the engine under normal conditions (mowing, in this case) for at least 10 minutes and then cutting stopping the engine and removing the plug for a color reading. If the plug color is somewhat white or light gray, turn the main metering screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn CCW (more fuel) and run the engine for 10 more minutes under working conditions and then read the plug again. The optimum color to attain is in the light brown to tan range. Finding gas "puddled" in the air filter housing might mean the intake valve is leaking some compression past it. I don't believe you can be certain the float level is correct based simply on looking at the ground under the carb after it has sat inert for a while. Unless the carb has an atmospheric vent to the outside, any overflow from the bowl will drain into the cylinder (but you have not stated seeing any of the typical signs of that either). Looking at your pics, there are 2 link holes in the throttle shaft bellcrank where the link is now connected (the link is in one hole). Are these 2 holes the same diameter? or is one bigger? Any chance you might have put the link back into the wrong hole? In the other pic, I see the throttle shaft has a return spring around the shaft. Check that this spring is actually functioning and not broken (with the remnants of the spring still in place). See both edited pics below. Have you checked the engine valves for proper adjustment?

Teal, Whether the fungal spores infesting your tomato plants are airborne or arrive by some other means or host, there are three major factors, besides the pathogen itself, that must exist for the disease to progress to the point of damaging your plant: susceptibilty of the host plant, favorable environment for the fungal spores to develop, and time. So, assuming fungi indeed is the pathogen you're dealing with and you have no control over airborne fungal spores landing on your tomato plants, you can remove or reduce one of the other three factors, and hopefully reduce or eliminate your loss ... since the disease cannot progress without all factors interacting. To reduce or eliminate the susceptibility of the host plants: Select varieties that are resistent to the diagnosed fungal disorders. The horticultural agent for your county may be able to give you some suggested choices in this regard. To reduce or eliminate the favorable environment for fungal spore development: Use drip or soaker hose irrigation, put plants in a location where sunlight will dry dew or rain rapidly, prune or otherwise provide ample air circulation through the foliage, apply a product that will block the spores from entering the stoma in the epidermis of the leaves. To reduce or eliminate the fungal spore itself, you can apply a product that kills the fungal spore. Proper identification of the pathogen of course is necessary to determine the product you will succeed with. You also can remove the infected vegetation before the pathogen spreads and achieve some degree of success without chemical applications ... but surgery doesn't necessarily remove dormant remaining factors. And remember time is a factor in disease development. It takes time for the pathogen to interact within a favorable environment on a susceptible host plant to a degree that evolves into a threatening disease. You may have a susceptible host plant, a pathogen spore present and the environmental conditions necessary for the pathogen to awaken, but it still takes time for the pathogen to invade the plant tissue. For example, an airborne fungal spore, even though present on the surface of a tomato leaf, and even in the presence of sufficient water to hydrate, still requires hours to move to and through a stoma in the leaf epidermis and destroy the interior mesophyll cells. So, reducing the amount of time the spore remains hydrated can reduce opportunity for disease development. So, remember in summary ... a fungal disorder requires, besides the pathogen itself, a susceptible host plant, a favorable environment, and time to develop. Remove one of the factors and reduce or eliminate the disease.

These are very basic suggestions, but first I would set the camera on something stationary and take a picture. Next I would use the timer and take a picture. Compare these photos with the ones you took with the camera hand-held. I have a Nikon D50 and I have never had this problem unless I was not holding the camera properly or when I snapped the picture I jerked the camera. Does the D60 have the stabilization feature? If so, what you see through the viewfinder at a half-squeeze (locks in view) is what you should get on your photo. If the *test* photos look like the ones you described I would take it back to the dealer where you got it. Riding around in the car should not have caused a problem. I don't know about cold temps. The D60 got great reviews. Jane

Cracks mostly applies to wood, but can also apply to stone tiles or seams, etc., and anything that could conceivably harbor a crumb or spec of flour or mold. That's why you can't kasher your KitchenAid mixer for Passover among other annoying things. If you're not making Passover, don't worry about it. It's about ritual purity not daily function. Even Orthodox Union doesn't opine on kashering plastics for Passover, and refer you to your rabbi. About quartz, they say: If a synthetic material is a minority component of a substance (like Silestone), many rabbis believe that one may kasher it, even if one does not normally kasher artificial materials for a number of reasons. I.e., if your rabbi doesn't allow for kashering Corian for Passover, he might be fine with the Caesarstone. Chag Sameach, everybody!