Hi KraZbuderfly, I have a balcony something like yours, cocked to slightly face northeast, slatted, but on the end. The end faces west and the other end is blocked. I have an overhead balcony too, limiting the light somewhat. I've lived here for 5 years (6th spring), so have had lots of time to experiment. Still experimenting! LOL Currently I have: Perennials Climbing rose (on west end) Peony (just planted last year, but it's coming up now) Pink carpet hanging rose (both roses were planted last year) Columbine Hosta Astilbe Pansies Ornamental grass Fern (no sign yet this year) Great Blue Lobelia (no sign this year) Vines 3 clematises Morning glories - planted indoors, ready to go out if they don't die first from planting too soon, last year they did fine I grew a Sweet Autumn clematis for three years but got tired of it and wanted something else. Shasta Daisies (treated as an annual so I could plant the peony) Water Garden This did well the first year because I had the right plants in it. It's declined every year since. This year we're going to clean it out and only put things in that will grow in the shade, like water lettuce, water hyacinth, a tiny bit of duckweed or Spanish Lace. We haven't decided what else. Herbs I'm not much for veggies, but do grow a little parsley, chives and some feverfew in a self-watering pot. I've grown a lot of other herbs that have done well. Here's this year's pot: The feverfew came back from last year. The parsley is a little small, so will replace it. Chives are doing fine. Bulbs Snowdrops Puschkinia Tulips Daffodils Lilies (Asiatic and Orientals) Annuals Last Year Torenia Sweet alyssum Coleus (I have Glennis coming) Plectranthus Mimulus Verbena Blue Moon lobelia (does great every year) Here's what it looks like so far this year: We look west to the mountains with Denver in the foreground. I know what you mean about some things not succeeding because of something you did. I let my mimulus dry out last year, same with astilbe. But I'm DETERMINED this year not to let anything dry out!! I have a few self-watering pots, and they're the greatest, but then I don't think they need as much watering and I forget to fill the reservoirs. It's a lot harder in August than it is in June! LOL Hope you'll post some photos too. Here's two of last year: East End This is fun! I hope you've got high speed access. I didn't realize how big these photos would be. Sorry... Judith

It is the Carpet Bugleweed, it can be variegated in shades of purple - deep blueish. Its a great ground cover and nice because its an early spring bloomer. (at least in my area MA)

Dcrosby, You may be right at the edge of zone 5/6. Check the map here. If you are still zone 5, you just need to do some winter protection. It should be fine. Climate affects disease susceptibility. In dryer, more arid climate like AZ or CA, they don't have to deal with fungal disease like we do here in humid East Coast. When you read people's recommendations, you want to see where they live. Different climate gives different results to the same rose variety. Spraying for roses every week or every two weeks is not my kind of fun (anymore). I didn't even want to smell the blooms after I sprayed the bushes. Now I don't spray, most of my roses esp. Austins look naked by mid summer. Here is a link that might be useful: MA new plant hardiness zone map

Hi, I WS anything in the cabbage(brassica) family. They all will sprout in cool temps, so you will get an early start with them. Lettuce is the same way. I WS herbs, dill, Amsterdam celery, fennel, hyssop, basil, borage, etc. I have Cilantro come back for me, so it winter sows naturally here. It should be able to be WSed. Rhubarb does really well. Peas are direct sowed early so WSing is not necessary. The ones that I know that have a tendency to rot and not germinate are beans and corn. Squash need to be direct sown or transplanted when there are just a few true leaves. If the plants get too big, they don't recover well from transplanting and can be stunted. Eggplant like warm temps to germinate and grow. So even if it does get warm enough to get germination early, cold temps after germination can stunt growth, so it is best to grow them indoors and transplant when night temps stay above 50. Many people here have success WSing tomatoes. I can't comment on that. I grow them indoors because I keep track of each variety and transplant them into single cells. It just wouldn't work for me to WS them. Hope that helped some : ) Remy