I'd like to see a photo too. I also doubt that it's possible to root a whole branch because it will be hard to get enough water to support so much living tissue all the way up the branch without roots to take it up, even if you removed some leaves. That being said, it should be easy to root either the end of the branch or a segment of it by simply sticking it in soil and spritzing the soil to keep it moist (not wet) until you see some new growth to indicate that there are roots, at which point you can start to water normally . Just be sure to get at least three nodes under the soil and you'll get roots quickly. You shouldn't need rooting hormone; ficuses root pretty easily, especially this time of year. I don't know how long a piece of the branch you can root, but maybe someone else will be able to tell us.

If the top was broken off or chopped back within the last couple of months, the new buds are exactly what would be expected. There are several causes of strong back-budding, but removing the apex (growing tip) of a branch is probably the most significant stimulus. Note that the buds are immediately above old leaf (bundle) scars, which is reliably where you'll find latent buds just waiting to be stimulated into action. These buds are indeed nascent branches. If they occur in a place where you do not want a branch, just rub them off with your thumb and immediately wash your hands. Ficus sap can be very irritating to skin. Al

Thank you Matt. To add some additional background ... I’ve been caring for fiddle leaf figs for about four years. First in NJ, where it was much more humid, and for the past almost-two years in Colorado. I’m always learning but I’m not a complete novice with judging when my plants need water. I can tell when the largest leaves begin to droop, by the weight of the pot, how the soil feels when I insert my finger, etc. I also realize the climate, type of soil, type of pot, etc. can all contribute to its watering needs. I didn’t suspect I was over watering when I originally posted, but Al’s suspicion led me to look for additional ways to test his theory. While the electronic toys you referred to aren’t 100% accurate, for a very small investment they provide another piece of data that can help diagnose and solve the problem. As does the wooden skewer method you recommended, which is another good indicator, but again, not perfect. (Two people may determine what feels moist vs. dry differently, they may not insert it deeply enough, etc.) I suspect from clicking around that you’re letting your frustrations from other threads carry over into this one. But please note this was my first-ever post on Houzz, and your condescending tone makes it difficult to take your advice in the spirit I’m sure it was intended.

Internodes grown under conditions of photosaturation (occurs when the plant is getting more light than it can use, but not enough to produce harmful oxidase) can be as little as 1/10 the length of internodes grown under low light conditions commonly found indoors during winter. As a member of the bonsai community, I can say that all experienced practitioners use a number of strategies to ensure their plants are as full and compact as can bee; this, because it makes for a much more attractive plant. Pruning the lanky late fall/ winter/ early spring growth ensures that all internodes retained on your tree will be as short as possible. Not only does this make for a nicer looking plant in the immediate, it affects spacing of branches whenever the plant is pushed to back-bud. IOW, since almost all back-budding in F lyrata occurs in leaf axils (crotch formed by leaf stem and the branch it's attached to) or immediately above leaf/bundle scars (the scar left on the branch when a leaf is shed), the length of long forgotten internodes comes into play any time you use rejuvenating pruning techniques. My experience has been, growers are at first thrilled when they find themselves able to keep their plants alive and healthy. During this phase of their development, pruning and root pruning is somewhere in the near vicinity of 'unthinkable'. "Nuh uh man! That tree grew it and I ain't taking anything off it grew because I'm afraid I might kill it." Somewhere down the road, the grower wants a greater challenge. It's often found in learning new techniques that help to keep plants looking healthy AND attractive. Having arrived at that stage, it becomes apparent the plant is not a good manager of its energy flow. It sends energy to areas that ensure it remains healthy, very often at the expense of appearance. Pruning forces your tree to allot energy to areas that would otherwise be ignored until shedding takes place. That's why, after a while, most lower branches are shed and more than 75% of existing growth and new growth is found in the upper 1/3 of the indoor tree. Had the top heavy trees been pruned appropriately, so the top 1/3 doesn't hog 2/3 of the energy allotted, and so light could penetrate the canopy to stimulate back-budding, the tree wouldn't require anything in the way of drastic pruning. No matter what, as your tree lives on, you'll need to prune it. You might as well set in motion a plan that has you working WITH the tree instead of against its natural rhythms. The tree will be better for it, and you'll get more personal satisfaction because you'll be a better nurturer. Al