See link on pear scab (aka blackspot). As I mentioned earlier, immunox should take care of it, although as the article says, it's not as severe or devastating as apple scab. Regarding your apples, I posit leafhopper b/c the upper leaves of your apples are curled, a result of the leafhoppers sucking the sap out of them. If you can kill the leafhopper nymphs (often seen on underside of leaves) it will be easier to control damage in future. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrins, and imidacloprid are all apparently effective, esp. the last as it's systemic in leaves -ie suck the sap, and bang your dead:).Honestly, you could probably ignore all of it and be OK, as they're not devastating issues. Here is a link that might be useful: blackspot

The practical advice is the chainsaw in my opinion also, but who that tends this forum is completely practical? I've saved downed trees for sentimental customers using a hand wench to lift it if a couple of strong people are inadequate. 3 large eyescrews, heavy wire and duck billed anchors can hold it until it re-establishes a functional root system. Eye screws into the wood are considered the best option these days for long term support. A single strong cedar post can be used as a more permanent support if necessary. Before lifting it reduce the branches to just the minimum framework of the tree shape you want- maybe a quarter of what is there now. On your windy site, I'd use summer pruning to keep trees much more open than that one appears- actually it looks too densely branched for any site. I too am surprised at the root system revealed in the photo but I can't see enough of it from that side to see if there aren't more substantial roots lower down. I wouldn't bother saving that tree, however (on my own property). It just aint anything special and was a rebuilding project when it went over. I'm lousy at fruit identification, especially if I can't see the fruit on the tree on location. I'm actually looking for a fruit identification specialist to use as a consultant. I manage a lot of very old trees that I'm unable to identify.

Thanks everybody. The tree is about 30' from the house. If it ever falls eastward, it will in fact hit the house. We also have a lot of oaks and maples in the back which are very tall as well. Good point about the root system. I didn't think about that. Guess I'll just have to pray it makes it. Overall, it is a healthy tree. It just got whacked really badly this time. You should have seen me out in the blizzard with a long pole knocking the snow from the branches I could reach. Took a few "butt plants" and was "dumped on" a few times :), but it was worth it. None of the lower branches broke. As I said, I LOVE that tree. I'll call the County for an arborist recommendation prior to having it pruned. Thanks again for your help. Melanie

it is very important.. that if fall color is your ultimate goal.. that you go buy your tree when it is in full color.. no real relying on 'tags names' ... if it is that important ... but that isnt much of a problem ... since it will then be dormant.. and planting can easily.. and properly follow ... ament.. start your own post... so answers come directly to you ... and specify what tree you are interested in ... as to arks pix.. i am a little leery of said GIANT tree in said tiny pot ... personally.. i would not buy it ... i would think ..... in that pot.. about half that size would be proper ... and.. as usual ... would bet a nickle.. that the smaller would outgrow the larger transplant in 5 years ... again.. think about this... a tree is said to be twice as big underground as above ... looking at that tree in that pot ... whats your best guess ... the rootmass 1/10 of the seen part ???? ... and if not.. its got two miles of roots going around and around in the pot .... and Jon .... if momma is the problem with proper tree selection.. good luck with all that .... just make her happy .. and perhaps .... repeatedly suffer the consequences ken