Please confirm this is shothole on my stone fruits (pics)

13 years ago

sooooooooooooooooo frustrating. Two years ago, I figured out that my peache/nectarine trees were being attacked by peach leaf curl and so i learned to spray with kocide in late fall and early spring. The kocide has done the trick- virtually no evidence of peach leaf curl the last couple of years.

Last year, i learned that the peaches were also being attacked by peach scab, so i added captan 50% every two weeks beginning at shuck fall. I added some immunox in just for good measure. Too early to tell if this has worked as the peach scab only starts showing up on the fruit in late june.

I was hoping that this spray regimen would give me my first disease free year on my stone fruits- but NOOOOOOOO- I still have massive defoliation going on. I posted some pics last week with a bad camera and the consensus was that it was shothole. I am now posting better resolution pics. please confirm whether this is shothole. I am concerned that the entire foliage is going to turn yellow and fall off. I am thinning extra heavily to help lighten the tree's energy needs but am scared this will not suffice. Anything else I should do? I guess next year, i will continue with a diluted copper spray throughout the growing season to try and combat the shotholE. anyone have any other ideas? see pics.

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Comments (7)

lycheeluva
Original Author
13 years ago
i should add that we really had a very dry spring this year in NYC, so I am puzzled why the trees are so badly infected. Is there any possibility that this is not shot hold and is instead damage from the captan/immunox sprays?
bucky130
13 years ago
Looks just like my peach trees. I have been researching this morning and I believe it is bacteria spot. I also came across some literature that says that BS can sometimes be confused with captan damage. But my trees looked a little but like this last year and I did not use captan at all, only once this year. I will look forward to hearing more on this post.
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Hman, I don't have a Cornell guide but I think the reason they don't list Topsin for BR is due to resistance. Topsin is actually supposed to offer pretty effective BR control to non-resistant populations. The Midwest spray guide rates it as excellent in non-resistant populations. Ziram is rated poor to fair for BR. According to the Midwest guide, Topsin and Ziram are good tank mix partners for BR since they have different modes of action. Red, Hman's correct DMI's/SI's are really going to give the best control. They don't wash off and have curative abilities in the early stages of infection. Again Indar and Orbit are going to be your best choices. Orbit also goes by the names Tilt, Bumper, and for a homeowner formulation Montery Fungi Fighter. Captan is very unstable at higher pH's. However, at neutral pH it is fairly stable, with a half life of about 8 hours. However, with a pH of 8, the half-life is only 10 minutes. (See This pdf link You may assume your water is neutral, but according to Penn State (See This link ) "A pH of 7.5 to 8.5 is quite common for many waters in the U.S.... Lake Michigan ranges b/t 7.5 and 8.5, while Lake Ontario is b/t 7.9 and 8.3.... City water frequently ranges upward between 9.0 and 9.5 due to water treatment procedures." Indeed that's what I've found with our water. The annual water report indicates a pH of 9.4. I've also tested it, and indeed it tests around 9.4. At such a pH the half-life of Captan is just a few minutes. Lastly, I posted a link below to a U.C. Davis guide on fungicides. It's an older spray guide (2005) but it discusses a lot of the pesticides referred to in this thread. It also discusses the mode of action. (See link below) Here is a link that might be useful: Timing and Efficacy of Fungicides - U.C. Davis
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This is mainly a California issue, perhaps, but might apply elsewhere: (from the UC Ag. and Natrl. Res. site) "Apricots and cherries can have a fairly short lifespan in many climate zones in California due to a disease called Eutypa. This disease is able to invade through pruning wounds especially during the wet winter months. This disease causes limbs or twigs to wilt and die suddenly in late spring or summer with the leaves still attached. The bark may appear dark with an amber colored gumming on the branches. To combat the disease and reduce the potential for Eutypa to infect trees, you should begin pruning your apricot and cherry trees during the later part of summer and early fall at least 4-6 weeks prior to rainfall. However, realize that you may be opening your trees to sunburn with summer pruning so be sure to paint exposed branches with a diluted white latex housepaint with 50:50 water to paint mix. Also avoid pruning if you are going to have an extended period of 100 degree plus weather. " Think "fireblight" for stone fruits. When living in So. Cal. many years back I also used to prune my peach tree during the dormant season without any problems. So far I've done the same here where it is much damper and I see no problems. Yet. But I do try to do most cherry and apricot pruning during the summer. This is not really an ideal climate for either (or peaches, for that matter) so I'm trying not to push my luck. This post was edited by steve_in_los_osos on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 14:43
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Sure. Just spray appropriately during the dormant season as you would for PLC. Your anti-fungal product used for PLC will also control Shot Hole. I spray on the "holidays" - Thanksgiving, Christmas, (mid Jan), and Valentine's Day. That does it for me, for by SH and PLC. The tree will recover just fine, and the pest pressure will really depend more on your yard and the issues you have in your yard, not so much what happened to this tree at the nursery. And yes, always pick up an fallen leaves from all your stone fruits to reduce spore build up. Patty S.
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lycheeluva
Original Author
13 years ago
thanks bucky- doint a quick search online, you may be correct- the yellowing of the leaves seems to be more consistent with bacterial spot than with shot hole. bacterial spot would also explain the spotting on my fruit in previous years which i put down to peach scab, but may in fact be bacterial spot.
please chime in everyone. bacterial spot or shothole or spray injury or something else? solution?
Scott F Smith
13 years ago
Bacterial spot and shot-hole are synonyms on the east coast. On the west coast, shot-hole means coryneum blight. You have east or west coast shot-hole there: either bacterial spot or coryneum blight. I have not figured out how to reliably tell the two apart, but whatever you have looks just like what I had. Your copper sprays are the right treatment. It took me about three years of copper to nail the bad case I had so just keep at it. I would also start using dilute copper sprays through shuck split or even a bit later; I was doing that during the peak of badness for me. I thought I would never get rid of it but now I don't ever see more than a couple holes. Young trees get it much worse so it gets established that way.

Scott
alan haigh
13 years ago
Funny, all the separate sites I manage and I've never seen a single case of it here, an hour N. of NYC. All the varieties in my nursery are touted resistant. What varieties are we looking at here? There's an awful lot of great peaches with BLS resistance.
lycheeluva
Original Author
13 years ago
harvestman- i dont know what variety peach this is. it starts with this peach tree and then spreads to all my other stone fruit trees.
olpea
13 years ago
Around here Bac. spot is the problem on susc. varieties. I agree with Scott Smith, I can't tell the fungal and bacterial apart from pictures, but I have a pretty good fungicide program and the spots only show up on susc. cultivars. so I'm pretty sure it's bac. spot in my orchard. One California peach gets it so bad, it looses the lower half of the leaf canopy every year. I'm trying to move away from susc. cultivars.

Please confirm this is shothole on my stone fruits (pics)

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Please confirm this is shothole on my stone fruits (pics)

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