Actually, I suspect it's powdery mildew or downy mildew. Black rot is just that, the entire fruit rots, dies, and shrivels away, often falling off. With the mildews, the skin is affected, but continues to live, with large gray-brown patches -- it can cover the entire grape, or only one side or part of it. The fruit under the skin continues to develop normally, but obviously, not good to eat like that. Any of the fungicides mentioned above will work. Another good one is Bayleton. I don't know if it's technically labeled from grapes. I bought 3 quarts of it in ready to spray, hose end type sprayers on clearance at Lowe's last year in the spring for $1.25 a bottle. It was sold and labeled as "Lawn Disease Control," but I used it on summer and winter squash, tomatoes, grapes, peaches, and also on my lilacs, phlox, and monarada, and it did an absolutely fantastic job of keeping them clean and green all summer, no disease problems at all. If I ever found more of it at that price, I'd snatch it up in a minute.

I agree, April in Florida is the wrong time to plant Peach trees. They do best if planted bare-root in winter, while dormant. Scrape the trunk in a thin strip with your fingernail. Try several layers, shallow, medium and deep. If it all looks brown, start cutting the tree down from the top, in sections. If the inner layers are white/brown/tan/black with no green, that area is dead. If you find any green, stop cutting. I chopped several of my Peaches back from 7' to 2' since I was not happy with the form and health of the trees. They are recovering and should be much better. But, dead is dead. If you get no green when scraping or pruning, all the way down to the graft, your tree is a goner. Try again this winter, with a stout, healthy tree from Bay Laurel or Just Fruits. Good Luck! Lisa

You probably got brown rot on your cherry and plum. Monterey Fungi Fighter is supposed to be one of the most effective products against brown rot. Two things I do to help improve the situation is picking up all rotten fruit off the ground and pruning trees to open center for more sun exposure. Both will help.

Wow... that was a lot of information! Dmt gave good information and probably knows a lot more than me. I live in JAX area also, and had my yard trenched for AT&T. Those areas usually die b/c you would have to water it like new sod. Half of mine survived, half didn't. When I moved in last fall all my neighbors had decent looking front yards. Now almost all of them near me have what looks like extensive damage from something. My back yard has issues, not sure what, but so far my front yard, seemingly in danger from whatever is ailing my area of the street, is holding on strong. Sites like this rescued my front yard (HOC, watering, bug damage, etc...). Can't see your sprinkler head you mention. If the sprinkler head is above the ground level you could reposition it to be level with the ground (may need a taller pop up if you do that). You may have tried, but you can usually adjust the spray radius of the sprinkler heads so maybe you could even out that wet spot by adjusting the nozzles. Organic is noble, but I can't help you there. I do use milorganite (greenedge is the local almost equivalent in our area), although my wife complained yesterday about the smell of both. Oh, weed #2 looks like surge to me. Celsius will kill it I think... Bottom right of the bare spot #3 picture looks like maybe some kind of sedge or kyllinga seed heads. It looks suppressed, possibly from the previous weed treatment company. A couple weeks after you think it was treated last you could try treating it again. I think Celsius kills kyllinga but not nutsedge, and sedgehammer kills nutsedge but only 'supresses' kyllinga. So there's a conundrum-proper weed ID would obviously help. You could try each but make sure to space out apps by at least a couple weeks to make sure your grass isn't stressed from the app, probably don't want to apply the herbicide if your grass is stressed. You could probably get away with using sedgehammer on anything nutsedge like, hand pull the rest (as a general rule you don't pull up nutsedge) as they come up, and apply a quality pre-emergent in the fall. I say that b/c honestly your yard looks pretty decent. It's not that bad, at least not in the photos. Of course it doesn't' compare to the lawns of the experts on these forums, but us normal people have to keep our expectations in check. You may of course evolve into an expert... Have you checked for chinch bugs? Hopefully the experts chime in if I misspoke...