Port. Afra Jade. Losing leaves.
cardarlin
13 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Bonsai- don't know if it is a Dwarf Jade and all leaves fell off
Comments (3)It sounds like Portulacaria afra, which doesn't tolerate wet feet well at all. Test the plant by moving it side to side to see if it's still secure in the pot. Usually roots rot off the main stem very quickly when they're over-watered and the plant often simply falls over. If you've lost most of the rootage, you'll essentially need to treat the plant as a cutting and hope you can reroot successfully after removing rotted tissues so only sound roots remain. Al...See Morejade plant....why are so many leaves falling off?
Comments (83)I make sure to use water that has sat out overnight to water my plants. Does that not make a difference? Or not enough of a difference? You already learned that the crystalline structures on the leaves of your plant is composed of dissolved solids (sugar and mineral salts) left behind as the water in the exudate associated with the guttation (primarily driven by over-watering) evaporates. If you allow your water to rest overnight in an open pan, some of the water in the pan evaporates, but ALL of the dissolved solids in the water are left behind, So technically, the concentration of dissolved solids in the water (which includes fluoride, and chloramine, used now to chlorinate most tapwater) would be slightly higher than water straight from the tap. The pH of water straight from the tap is also slightly lower than water that has rested for a period of time, due to dissolved CO2 gassing off. Also yes, can you point me in the direction of drain hole tutorials?? I'm guessing you mean how to drill the holes? This should help: Drilling holes in pots The 2 types of drill bits most appropriate for drilling holes in pots are a diamond core drill for the highly vitrified (hard material - baked at very high temps - glass, ceramic, ......) pots, and a drill with several names for drilling clay pots fired at low temps, such as terra cotta. That (carbide) drill is called a 3-point drill, spear point drill, or a spade drill, seen here: You only need 1 - in 1/2 or 3/8" size. For the hard stuff, diamond core drills are best, though the 3 point drill will drill the hard stuff, too. Diamond core drills: You can buy either type at big box stores. They're not that expensive, and they last a long time if you take care of them. They are best used with a steady stream of coolant from a squeeze bottle (contact lens solution bottles work great for this) or with the work surface barely submerged. IE, put the pot upside down in a tub and fill the tub with water until it just covers the work surface. If you use a spritzer or squirt bottle, a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is an excellent coolant, and soapy water is better than plain water but not as good as the antifreeze mix. The coolant keeps the tool from over-heating, and in doing so, increases the life of the tool substantially - like triple or quadruple the number of holes you can drill. Regular masonry bits are "ok" for drilling terra cotta or cement (you can make them work), but inappropriate for anything harder. The right tool makes everything easier. And lastly, should I be flushing all my plants (pothos, croton, aloe, snake plant...) when I water? One way or another - YES, absolutely. Ideally, your choice of soil should allow you to water to beyond the point of saturation, so you're flushing the soil as you water. If you can't do that w/o worry that the soil will remain soggy for a prolonged period, limiting root function, or worse, wrecking root health it would be best to consider learning how to amend the soil you're using or make a soil that allows you to flush the soil regularly. There are also a few very simple work-arounds that will allow you to use a soil that would otherwise be inappropriate. For example - if you're using a soil too water-retentive for a plant's well-being, and you need to flush it - you can flush thoroughly over a sink or tub or outdoors. When the pot stops draining, hold it in your hand(s) and move it up and down. You'll note that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, Newton's First Law of Motion takes over and some of the excess water in the pot exits through the drain hole. As the amount of water diminishes, more can be forced from the soil by reversing directions more forcibly. As long as your pot is of a manageable size, this simple trick is invaluable for anyone using an excessively water-retentive soil. If the pot is too large, you can use a wick to drain excess water, or even tipping the pot at a 45* angle to drain makes a very significant difference in how much excess water a medium can hold. Compare B with A to see how much excess water the simple act of tipping the pot forces from the pot. E shows what a wick, used correctly for best benefit, can achieve. D shows one way of using ballast to reduce excess water. Even when using extremely water retentive soils, ballast can reduce the amount of excess water a soil can hold to less than 5% of what it would hold w/o use of ballast. Al...See MorePortulacaria Afra water retention
Comments (12)If you find you are going to be away for a few days, why don't you put them in the shade until you get back? Or you could ask a neighbor or friend to water them for you, since over watering this time of year, in your hot sun is almost impossible.. Some who have no time to water every couple of days in their hot sun, will even amend the original gritty mix by adding a bit more turface than all the rest of the ingredients.... You say the pots are small? Are they in plastic or clay? If clay, you could stick them in a bigger pot, preferably plastic surrounded my something that holds mositure, like mulch, or a very wet towel,and the clay will keep absorbing moisture from it while your away keeping your plant from drying out.. Just a few ideas... Good luck:-) Mike...See MoreNeed help! Portulacaria afra wrinkled leaves
Comments (8)May have already been suggested by others I share the common suggestion that each pot house one different plant per pot ( exceptions are the same lithops can share a single pot With out to much talking about pots Each pot will need some form of drainage and be of a relative size for developing the growth you want , size shape and materials of pots can be something for you to explore . Your soil links are basically okay to use for but as you read more into soils for & as your time and investment into succulents becomes bigger you may want to consider better options for soil materials. A bit higher end but may be worth the investment for you especially if you get the any type of plant in a pot cultivating bug ( succulents included) http://www.amazon.com/4pc-Soil-Sieve-diameter-Interchangeable/dp/B0007P4JAU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1452090931&sr=1-1&keywords=soil+sifting+screen Yes there are sifters that can fit the bidding at wally world yet for some of us here compromising is something to be considered. Compromising; You may want to shop in a hydroponics store for super chunk sized perlite to replace http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTDI6YO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Chances are you may even find some type of pumice at a hydo shop, a bit pricey but if so grab a bag of it It's being suggested that you spend time in developing a made by you ( custom made ) soil for succulents. There are several forms of succulent soils though out the C&S forum yet fast sharp drainage seems to be the key As suggested start with a basic mix formed from some of the items you already have on hand by sifting and rinsing some of the items you already have on hand as to how and what do you do isn't mentioned I wouldn't ( and wont) suggest the sand be used with out a sifting and rinsing and a pic view of it after sifting for opinions ( I've never used it or have seen it sifted ) which can be easily replaced with sifted construction sand found at home depot or lowes http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTDI6YO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Sift all the three items as follows for a better mix: Apx 35 % sand from the link or after pic of yours on hand Apx 30 % of the bagged soil on hand and the remaining % be perlite Using the apx mix % is for each per pot not the over all % amount of each bag. The pot preference for most here is terracotta pots as they provide a breathable surfaces but plastic can also be used. What I do is make enough mix for several pots at a time then fill each pot then re-sift/ remix the soil back into the pot while potting in a plant. Some re-potted in the newer soil mix and draining pots will need a dryer soil> ( Example the lithops ) It might be suggested to let them pots dry for a day or two before re-potting and some will be okay to pot in a damper soil ( example your P afra.) PS. Use some ethics please chances are you wont overwhelm yourself and not overwhelm your plant(s). If you have questions feel free to ask on this ( your) thread. Feel free to read them but please don't ask your questions on another persons plant with problems threads As you get use to your new plant growing hobby ( thats an art for others) you found you may find a need to ask about a particular plant on a different topic feel free to start a new topic ( thread). Example; It would be considered ( maybe) rude of me to post a comment asking for advice on your thread. A small example of me being rude; What should I do so the vine will reach the side stick on this un-ordinary onion? Bowiea volubilis ; you need to concider is that rude can often end up in a very winding vine in a very messy wig...See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobirdsnblooms
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobirdsnblooms
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agocardarlin
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agocardarlin
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agowindeaux
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agomeyermike_1micha
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agomeyermike_1micha
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agopuglvr1
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agocardarlin
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojane__ny
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agomeyermike_1micha
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojojosplants
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojodik_gw
13 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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