I would work on amending the soil. I would take it the soil is alkaline? What I would do is dig out a hole 2-3 times the size of what its in now. Add some nice irrigation to make sure it does not dry out. Then amend the soil with nutrients and something that lowers the PH into the 6 range.

After that I would plant it in the ground and put it on a fertilizing schedule.

Definitely plant it now! Leaving it in the pot would slow potential growth, increase the likelihood of your tree becoming potbound, and miss the ideal planting season.

Amend the soil only if you are able to amend a large area (preferably the entire mature rootzone) and then only lightly. Amending (especially heavily) only the backfill for a small planting hole is potentially detrimental to drainage and root growth.

I would be hesitant to fertilize at planting. Once the plant begins to get established, fertilize as a soil test indicates.

Here is a link to general planting guidelines. It's not specific to pomegranates, but the basics are the same.

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

Thanks for the input. I've never planted my own tree. I don't even have the shovel. Most things I've read say to add some top soil and mix it with the native. Should I do this? Also, it's a small tree, what sort of staking would I need?

"Most things I've read say to add some top soil and mix it with the native."

"7. Fill the hole with native soil.
Generally, soil amendments are not advisable, and only the soil that was removed from the planting hole should be used to fill in the hole. A uniform soil texture throughout the entire potential rootzone aids drainage and helps to ensure proper root development..."

Amend the soil only if you are able to amend a large area (preferably the entire mature rootzone) and then only lightly. Amending (especially heavily) only the backfill for a small planting hole is potentially detrimental to drainage and root growth. Sources that recommend using amended soil will likely fall into two categories. They are either unfamiliar with studies over the past few decades that determined this practice to be generally detrimental or they are recommending the practice for a specific situation. An example would be planting blueberries in a site where the native soil was very inhospitable to their needs. If proper drainage can be assured (build berm, site on slope, etc.) and a relatively large area can be amended, the use of amended soil may be necessary and helpful.

"Also, it's a small tree, what sort of staking would I need?"

10. Use stakes only if necessary.
    In most situations staking newly planted trees and shrubs is not necessary and can be disadvantageous. Unstaked trees generally develop stronger trunks and better root systems. If staking is required to ensure the stability of the plant's root system while it is becoming established, be sure proper techniques are used and that the stakes are removed as soon as the root system becomes established. This can usually be done during the winter following planting (after the first growing season). Stakes should be placed so that damage to the tree in high wind situations is avoided. Flexible ties allow some trunk movement to encourage more natural trunk and root growth.

BTW, did you read the information on the link above?

I did later yes, thank you. The section on roots was a little confusing though. Can you clear up how deep and wide I really need to make the hole?

The hole should not be dug any deeper than the root ball as taken from the pot. There is always the possibility of the tree being planted too deep. The crown(where the roots meet the trunk)must be kept above the soil line to save it from disease. The width of the hole should be about three times the with of the roots, mostly to loosen it up and incorporate oxygen into the root zone. Keep any staking needed low on the trunk. The reason for staking at all is to prevent root movement in the soil which would hinder root establishment in the soil. Al

Ditto what Al said, with the addition of the fact that another reason the rootball shouldn't be planted too deeply is so that the roots can get the air they need. Planting too deeply can suffocate the root system.

Can you do me a BIG favor? Can you either let me know here or email me with a brief description of what you found confusing in the link. I'd really appreciate the help!

Al & Drandon,
I've read and understand that one shouldn't bury the crown of most fruit trees; am curious though if this applies to pomegranates. They, like figs, are propagated by rooting cuttings. If planted a little deeper, won't they just root along the area of the newly submerged trunk -- like a tomato? When I plant figs, I even make a point to do this, so to encourage a deeper root system and better chances of survival if frozen to the ground in a hard winter.

It is true that Pomegranits and Figs are grown on their own roots and not grafted, but they still have a crown area that should not be exposed to soil pests by planting with the crown buried. Al

Some woody plants are much more likely to survive deep planting than others, but all are more likely to develop a rot condition and suffer from other issues if their crowns are planted below grade. I haven't seen any studies regarding how well pomegranates handle this challenge, but it's not a good idea.

Thanks Brandon and Al for the replies. I'm not sure that I'm totally convinced though. I've started both poms and figs from long cuttings in situ where only the tips are left above ground with no noticible problems with rot.

On the other hand I did have problems once when I tried to protect some small fig plants from winter freezing by covering them with dark mulch. The mulch became soggy, heated up during the day, cooled off/froze at night. The bark split, and the wood rotted. Those covered with poor (low/no organic matter), dry clay soil did fine -- the clay didn't trap the moisture, or heat up during the day like the dark mulch.

Agree will all the above except that this is the ideal
planting time. In the deep South and Southwest
Autumn is the ideal season with Spring a distant 3rd.
But don't wait as the others have said it would get
rootbound. Next Autumn buy your plants and take
advantage of the cool season to allow them to root
during Winter.

Regards
Chris

Now is the ideal planting time in this situation. It is still early enough that the plant can become somewhat established before the height of summer heat AND, as I said above, leaving it in the pot would slow potential growth and increase the likelihood of the tree becoming potbound.

Brandon, the link was great. It was very detailed, I just don't know very much about roots. So heavy detail on root balls and root pruning scares me. I just don't want to kill my trees. I planted the tree today and followed your instructions. No soils amdendment except I had a pot full of potting soil I did throw in the hole. No staking was done either.

Now that it's planted should I prune he young tree or wait? I read somewhere that pruning young poms is recommended.

I think you might be overthinking this a little...sounds like you planted it fine. Just let it grow until the fall. Pomegranates aren't terribly high-care plants; in fact, they tolerate alkaline soil that would kill many fruiting trees and shrubs. So you can relax and let it go to see what happens.

Doesn't Home Depot give you a replacement guarantee for a year anyway?...

I would not prune it now and although I can not see it, do not believe a 5 gallon Pomegranite would need pruning. Al

Thanks for all the terrific advice everyone.

For anyone wanting more information on roots, there is a new book out, just on roots. Fascinating! 'Roots Demystified' by Robert Kourik. Al

In looking that book up, I see that the author also has an informative blog that might be of interest. It has some of the information from the book.

Here is a link that might be useful: Robert Kourik's Garden Roots Blog