I am really glad that most people don't think it's the wind that is doing these trees in, because that was going to be the hardest thing to change. I did stake the trees with those green metal fence posts, but to be honest, I don't think it would have made any difference because they never got any bigger than sticks. I kept them weed free but only about 18" in all directions from the trunk so it sounds like that was really inadequate. I was careful to plant them the recommended amount based on the graft mark (I don't recall if I could tell where they were grown in the nursery, but I remember being careful about the graft because of suckering) I watched the area for drainage for almost a year before I put them in, and the ground was not soggy. We also have a much lower spot of ground (kind of a swale) that water drains to in the spring. The trees were planted well above that area. I don't think it is a drainage problem, but I did not ever perform one of those drainage tests (dig a hole, fill with water, time how long it takes to drain). I also made sure I watered during dry weather, but that area out there really cracks once the sun has baked it. It is difficult to get the ground well watered at the end of July. I had mulched with wood chips (there was no sign of damage from voles, etc.) and we have cats that seem to keep the little critters in check. I think that when I put in the new trees I will use gravel around the base. Our property gets baled so I have access to plenty of hay and I use it around my blueberries, so I'll use that around the outside of the gravel. That should help with water issues also. What a great orchard you have thomis! The trees that I planted NEVER had that many leaves. I was anxious about deer coming along and chomping the puny amount of green that I did have and the tree dying from no foliage! I was afraid to use fertilizer since ACN says that fertilizer is one of the leading causes of fruit tree death. It sounds like I need to verify the soil ph once I till everything up and go from there with that issue and probably use some fertilizer. My house is smack dab in the middle of a former farm field. I imagine the soil is probably depleted to start with. Just so I have an idea, what kind of growth can I expect the first year so I know whether the tree is getting established at an appropriate rate and can survive the winter? Thanks once again. I didn't know whether our site was just not going to support fruit trees, but you all have cleared up that issue. I appreciate the help and advice!

Languard, I'm not trying to talk you out of organic, but please don't assume, organic = safe. Some formulations of sulfur are more acutely toxic than many synthetic pesticides. For example lime sulfur has an LD50 of around 500 mg/kg body weight. Similarly, Bordeaux (copper sulfate and calcium hydroxide) has an LD50 of around 500 mg/kg. Most modern synthetic pesticides have an LD50 > 2000 mg/kg. I'm on another fruit forum tailored for commercial growers and researchers Following is part of a post from a commercial grower on that list named Mo Tougas: "We too use lime sulfur and I agree that the benefits are numerous. Twenty years ago we bought sulfur by the ton as our non synthetic fungicide of choice for the production of peaches here in the humid northeast. That ceased when a friend was hospitalized due to a severe allergic reaction to my peaches. I was told it was an allergy to sulfur. I decided not to argue with the emergency room personnel."

dirtslinger, I did a search and I'm sorry to report that my suggestion has proved also fruitless. I had met Ms Hoag at "Canada Blooms", a large garden show that's held in the Toronto area for many years and seen her on TV and heard on many radio gardening shows so that my suggestion to enquire at her nursery was genuine in my belief she was still in business. Evidently, that's not the case any more. Sad! Still, I suggest you e-mail some of the larger nurseries in your area and ask them where or who might lead you to your plant.

Roses are really competitive for food and water so I don't think that is the best combination. Plus fruit trees shouldn't be watered as often as roses. Roses are also high maintenance, you'd have to get past the trees to prune, deadhead, tie up canes if they're climbers, etc. I also planted a fruit tree hedge along a fence, I plan to keep the trees short with summer pruning and limiting water and nitrogen. I underplanted them with strawberries as a green mulch and I've put a few grapevines on the fence itself to train along the top.