I only once had damage to my persimmon trees by deer. It was when I got persimmon plant in a pot from Edible Lanscaping. There were several fruits on this small tree. Deer tried them all when they were still green. Didn't really eat, just bite. With all my other persimmon trees I never had any damage even though sometimes fruits are very close to the ground and I have very heave deer pressure here. I do apply Liquid Fence sometimes, not for persimmons but for some flowers that I have close to persimmons. It still could be the reson why deer don't eat my persimmons. I am in MD, zone 6b. I grow Jiro, Ichi, Hana, Izu, Chocolate, Coffee Cake and Hachiya. The last three are only two year in my yard, so not sure how they will survive long term. Others are here for many years and I never saw any winter damage on any of them. To speed up Hachiya or other astringent persimmons persimmon ripe, I put them in a bag with ripe fruits. It can be apples, bananas or ripe persimmons. It really speeds things up. I put just enough persimmons that my family can consume in 2-3 days. When they get ripe, each time I take some out of the bag, I add the same amount of unripe ones. This way it works for non stop supply of ripe persimmons. Olga

This time of year-almost February- you shouldnt have any frost problems. What might help is to cover around the base of the tree with black plastic or heavy roofing paper. Mangos hate cold wet soil...once summer heats up-remove.

Once I started to really clear out around the main tree, I found a lot more suckers growing then I had previously realized. One, in particular, is growing about four feet from the main trunk and is about 2 inches in diameter and 15 feet tall which is as tall as the main tree (although not as well branched out). So, now that i see the number and size of some of the suckers, I am back to worrying if it is possible that removing them all at once might shock the main tree. Is the main tree benefiting from the energy derived from all the leaf growth on the suckers or is it strictly a one way street in which the suckers are simply sapping the energy away from the main tree?

considering the size of the pot.. and the size of the tree .. i think i would worry about pruning it in 3 to 5 years ... right now ... every leaf is an energy making machine.. to grow a root mass. .. to grow the tree ... and if you cut half of them off .... then its just going to take longer to grow the root mass ... get it planted.... water it properly ... yikes on that soil ... i like this primer for planting: https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub do not amend the planting hole ... do you know how to water a tree?? .... do you know if you soil drains??... dig a hole and perk it ... https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=garden+perk+test&iax=videos&ia=videos how the soil drains will dictate how to plant it properly.. and will also aid you in figuring out how to water it properly .... tree time is counted in decades ... and getting it to live and grow a mature root mass is far more important than starting to prune it ... do you have a cultivar name????? .. seems odd someone would go to all the trouble of grafting an un named plant ... what would the point be ... ken ps: i suspect it might show you which part is which.. if you give it a season or two to grow out ... something might be obviously different over time.. like leaf structure.. flower.. etc ....