Good spray program for apples
johnthecook
12 years ago
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alan haigh
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnthecook
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Spray program for oriental pears
Comments (4)Well I guess I'll mention this. I developed a bag last year that seemed to stop everything if you have the time to make them. Here is what I did. 1) I prepared a ziplock like I learned how to do from the instruction of Jellyman and others on this forum. 2)I then stapeled screen door material to the outside of the bag and the installed it onto the fruit. I did this to apple, pear, and citrus. The bags were my best effort to stop the plague of birds in my back yard but as a bonus they seemed to stop just about all form of pests. Oh exept for racoons that did rip off some apples but a little sheet metal wrap around the trunk stops them. Maybe this will help. Thanks, Scaper...See Morecritique my peach spray program
Comments (3)about borers (Ohio State University)- "Special Problems on Stone Fruit Peachtree Borers The peachtree borer works beneath the bark at or near the ground level; it is primarily a pest of young peach trees but populations can build up and cause the decline and death of older trees. The lesser peachtree borer is a similar pest that attacks trees at wounds anywhere in the lower few feet of the trunk and scaffold limbs rather than at ground level. The presence of borers is indicated by masses of gum that contain small brown particles of bark at the base of the tree, or the occurrence of frass and empty pupal cases protruding from tree wounds. Adults (moths) of peachtree borer begin emerging in early June in southern Ohio, and late June in northern Ohio. Adults of lesser peachtree borer begin emerging about one month earlier than peachtree borer, and the lesser peachtree borer has a second generation in late summer. Avoid mechanical injuries to the trunk and limbs, which attract borers. If evidence of borers is found, borers can be killed mechanically using a knife or flexible wire to puncture the larvae through the bark where fresh frass is found. It is important to prevent peachtree borer damage by protecting the base or trunk of the tree with an insecticide. New trees can be dipped in insecticide solution before planting. Insecticide solutions are effective when applied with a paint brush to the affected area on the trunk. The best time to apply a trunk treatment is at the time of peak emergence of adult peachtree borer, which is usually in early August." I use Dursban (chlorpyrifos AKA Lorsban). You don't want to get it on the leaves or fruit. Most commercial peach orchards use this chemical, post-harvest. Other insecticides also work, generally mixed strong and enough applied to soak the ground around the trunk. There are also pheromone lures for the adults, and nematodes that kill the larvae if you want to go that way. Some here recommend moth balls....See Moreharvestman-your 3 spray program
Comments (12)Hi Acie- Being a subscriber of the Harvestman 2-spray method... Immunox (not Immunox Plus which has an insecticide not rated for fruit) is the name of the spray that includes myclobutantil. Sometimes 3 sprays are needed because apple trees of a different variety and different locations will not all go through petal fall at the same time. Thus, you may get away with 2 sprays on an individual tree, but 3 sprays may be needed to adequately cover your whole orchard. Hi John- We're kinda talking about 2 different things in the same thread. Insecticide and Fungicides. Fungicides shouldn't cause any problems for the Bees. I suppose you could spray them earlier, but there wouldn't be much point. As for insecticides, I wouldn't spray any of those until after petal fall. I would think hort oil would be fine as long as it says so on the label. (some oils are not recommended as the tree progresses through the stages, so read your label). If it's caterpillars you're after, based on what you've told me, I'd recommend looking at a spray of "BT" which specifically targets them, and is benign to everything else (I believe). -Glenn...See More(dormant) spray program for sweet cherry?
Comments (8)I have sweet cherry trees for a few years in central MA. The problems I have had are: cherry leave spot, canker, aphids, brown rot and birds. I deal with these problems as follows: For leave spot: Spray copper hydroxide in late fall (no leaves on trees) once and again in early spring before bud break. The brand I use is Kocide 3000 Canker : not too bad. Has not done anything to it. Aphids: when leaves start coming out, I wrap the trunks with masking tape, sticky side out and smear it with Tangle foot glue. I do two taping like this on each tree trunk to prevent ants climbing up the trees to farm aphids. I don't spray anything on aphid. I squish them with my hands. My trees are about 6-7 feet tall, not to hard to reach. Birds: I net the trees with bird netting from American Nettings. The quality of the net is better that the one from Home Depot (HD net causes more damages to twigs/limbs when you take a net off). Brown rot: I don't think you have powdery mildew. I think you have brown rot on your cherries (fruit). I did not have it at first but it increasingly is an issue after 4-5 years. I will spray with Monterey Fungi Fighter next year. I don't know if sweet cherry is worth it. To me, pear, apple, even peach and plum give me less work and better rewards than growing cherry....See MoreUser
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
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