I have sometimes suffered some phototoxicity apparently from applying oil between 10 and 14 days following Captan. The label of either the oil, Captan or both clearly warns of incompatibility but there is no written indication that residue from Captan could create a problem this much later. Only certain varieties, particularly Tomkins King have had this kind of response to so late an interval between Cap and oil- also pears are particularly sensitive. Oil probably wouldn't leave as lasting a residue-it evaporates very quickly, at least if you use some kind of summer oil. I like Purespray. The 10 to 14 day interval for PC protection is for Imidan only. Most other available materials will require a tighter interval and at least an additional spray unless you are very attentive or lucky. Imidan is exceptionally rain-fast for a non-systemic. The manufacturer doesn't even recommend a sticker. As far as historic PC protection results, you never can be sure what your chemicals are doing for you unless you see the PC in your orchard and then spray. In recent years in the Northeast PC has become somewhat less predictable on some sites based on my observations. In 2 of the last 4 years I have seen unsprayed sites produce apples without PC damage. These are large trees with lots of apples. PC often leaves the russeted old-strain Yellow Delicious alone as well. Too bad I don't much like them although they're a lot better than the new strains. PC disagrees with me and attacks those newer strains. Imidan is not nationally restricted and the government is stearing its use away from homeowners because they don't trust them to follow the label. It now has a 3-day REI, probably because it can be tracked indoors, especially off a dew covered grass. Once it is brought indoors it is almost as durable as DDT, outside it breaks down quickly. I wouldn't do any hand thinning of fruit until about 2 weeks after a spray myself which is very inconvenient. On varieties I'm almost sure will overcrop I remove a lot of flowers because I don't use chemical thinners. The Imidan label says not for residential use but according to code I now believe this means indoors, from what I read while studying for certification renewel. I called the NYDEC and was told that it is OK to use in resedential areas. In NY it is restricted to commercial applicators unless you are a commercial grower. In CT it is sometimes available from suppliers catering to commercial landscapers and is not restricted. It can legally be sent through the mail 1 package at a time. I can even have it sent to NY from another state even if I don't prove I'm licensed to use it here. Of course it would be illegal for me to use it if I wasn't licensed.

Thanks fruitnut, glad to know this is not a pest (if you are right). I google'd "cicada eggs" and the pictures I found are similar but a little different. What makes me think you are right is the wound on the twig - I found a website that shows a photo of the wound and it looks just like my picture. The same website says that they hatch into "ant-like nymphs". That would be consistent with tedgrowsit's observations of the "critters" after they hatched. I've never actually seen a cicada around here and never heard the typical loud screeching/buzzing sounds. There are some aspen trees behind this peach tree and I always hear clicking coming from those trees at dusk during the summer. It is kind of a soft, slow click - maybe 5 clicks per second and kind of random. I actually kind of enjoy it when I am out there at night. Are there species that simply "click", and only at night? Here is a link that might be useful: Cicadas

Sun worshiper, The real issue is not about your tree recovering (I think it will) rather the shot-hole will be a reoccurring problem. Shot-hole can either be caused by bacteria or fungus. Quite frankly, I don't know how to tell them apart. Bacterial shot-hole (bac. spot) seems to be more prevalent, at least that's the focus of most of the literature, so I'm guessing that's what you're seeing. I have some trees that get it pretty bad here. Copper is a treatment for bac. spot but there is a very fine line between using copper to get control vs. causing too much leaf drop. I've recently read even the recommended rate of Kocide 3000 (0.5 lbs/acre) has caused some leaf drop. Below is a good (although somewhat older) write-up in the Southeastern Peach Newsletter about bac. spot. In the article they infer copper is not the best alternative. However, in a later issue, they state newer research shows copper is one of the best solutions. I think the spots on the shoots are also a manifestation of bac. spot. It takes it longer to show up on the shoots. In short, you'll probably have to start spraying to get control, or get a bac. spot resistant cultivar. The other option is just to try to live with it. I've got one cultivar that loses half it's leaves every year, and the fruit gets bac. spot so bad, some of it cracks. However, I do plan to start treating some of the trees for it next year. Here is a link that might be useful: March 2003 Southeastern Peach Newsletter

"I bought lucky 13 a mid-season because it is the biggest selling PF peach. Olpea grows it but I never heard him comment on it?" I do grow Lucky 13 and it's a good peach. I do prefer more of the stellar series peaches vs. Paul Friday's varieties. Just as a background note for anyone reading this thread. Paul Friday's (Flamin' Fury) varieties were bred in Michigan, as were the Stellar series varieties (any peach with "star" in the name). The Haven series peaches (Redhaven, Cresthaven, Glohaven, etc.) were also developed in Michigan (a long time ago). The Harrow series peaches were developed just across the line in Ontario, so they are also Michigan climate peaches (more or less). Harrow varieties can be identified with the letters "har" somewhere in the name. A lot of peaches were developed in the Michigan area! I've grown Harrow Beauty and Harken for quite a few years. I prefer Harken, which tastes like Redhaven in my opinion. Redhaven doesn't bring much praise on this forum, but I love it. Unless there is a lot of rain, Redhaven has excellent flavor here. Harrow Beauty is good too, but it is prone to turn a bit mealy in extremely high temperatures during ripening. It's done it a few years and whenever it happens, I sell them as seconds (intended for canning or jam). I agree an early peach might be the best bet for no spray. I planted Harrow Diamond for the first time this year so I'm anxious to see how it tastes. I agree with Drew, any homegrown grafted variety peach will be superior to a grocery store peach. I'm also excited about Rich May for a very early variety. I planted the variety in 2012, so I haven't tried it from my own trees yet (did have one from the grocery store). I've heard good things about it for an early peach. It's supposed to ripen 10 days earlier than Harrow Diamond.