Anyone Grown Squash and not gotten SVB or Squash bugs?
scarletdaisies
13 years ago
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scarletdaisies
13 years agolaura21774
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Squash bugs!
Comments (24)Bon, You'd need to plant garbanzo beans in OK around the same time you plant snap peas or shelling peas. It would be best to start them indoors the same way Dorothy and I start our sugar snaps indoors because that would give you a 2-3 week jump on the growing season. Unfortunately, garbanzo beans take about a month longer than snap peas to produce pods of legumes, so your harvest still would be at the mercy of the weather. Still in a year when the last frost is early and you could get an extra-early start on the garbanzos, they might have a chance to produce. Unfortunately, they do not produce as heavily as peas do, per plant, so it would take a lot of plants. It takes time to succeed with gardening, but you learn more every day and get better and better at it over time. I started out decades ago with tomatoes, peppers, squash, lettuce and watermelons in a tiny backyard garden, and didn't add anything else until I had mastered those. Of course, my dad was a gardener as were many friends and relatives, so I'd been around it all my life which significantly shortened the learning curve. Actually, I've been thinking about that a lot lately---how much it helps if you had exposure to gardening as a child or young adult versus how little you know if you never were exposed to any of that and then you decided to plant your first garden. Seeing what new gardeners go through in terms of trying to figure out what to plant, how much to plant, etc. reminds me how lucky I was to see it when I was growing up. I will tell you a brief story that illustrates this, and I swear I am not laughing at this would-be gardener because there's not necessarily any way he would have know how corn grows: Because we give Christmas gift bags of canned goods (2-4 jars per bag depending on how good of a harvest year we had) to TIm's coworkers (125-150 people per year) and have done so for years, a lot of them have become intrigued with gardening and want to grow their own food and maybe learn to can it. They always come to Tim at work in spring or summer, full of plans and ideas, and with cell phone photos of their young gardens. Lacking experience, most plant too many plants too close together in too small of a space, but they learn from it and get better ever year. Recently one of those people was telling Tim all about his family's new garden and describing what they had planted, and his description left Tim speechless. They planted 1 corn plant. One. Tim had to break the news to him that one corn plant wouldn't feed a family. I kinda chuckled, but then thought about it and wondered if he thought it would grow like an apple tree and produce a whole lot of corn? What would a person think if they'd never grown anything before? How would they know you need a lot of corn plants to get a lot of corn and that the smallest number that might produce ears with good tip fill would be 4 plants, planted in a block, not in a straight row. It sure makes me grateful that I grew up around gardening so I had some sort of a clue. The folks at work consider Tim a garden expert even though he isn't even a gardener. (grin) He has learned a lot by osmosis, and he usually can answer their questions correctly, though he'll check with me on anything he's not sure of (and, increasingly, there's not many garden questions he is unsure of any more). They show him photos of their garden, and every now and then he'll show them photos on his cell phone that he took in our garden. The other day, I was stripping lower foliage with early blight off a Pruden's Purple tomato plant and uncovered an immense clump of very large green tomatoes. There were 3 or 4 that were really big and then others in various sizes. I shot a photo and sent it to Tim. (Until I stripped that foliage, you couldn't even tell the plant had set any fruit....and I don't like to stick my hands into dense foliage to check and see for fear of being snakebit.) Tim forwarded the photo to a fairly new gardener at work who has had a garden for a while now and is getting pretty good at growing, and he texted back and said something like "Oh, so you grow your pumpkins vertically." I thought that was hysterical. Tim told him they weren't pumpkins, but were big, green tomatoes. I was rolling on the ground laughing. But, you know, I do grow pumpkins vertically---it is just that those tomatoes weren't pumpkins. And, to be fair to that guy, those green tomatoes had a very oblate shape and could have resembled something like Cinderella pumpkins. Amy, I often use hay for mulch because old, spoiled hay is available, although I use it much less often than I used to because of the issues with herbicide carryover in mulch, compost and manure. However, I put a barrier (always) between the hay and the soil---sometimes it is weed block fabric, but more often it is cardboard or newspaper because they attract earthworms. Do I get more weeds than I would if I used straw? Sure I do, but the hay is free and straw is not---and the straw that is available usually is mixed with manure from horse or cow barns so I avoid it because of herbicide carryover. I just yank out weeds while tiny. I get the best results from summer squash plants that I plant early in spring and late in summer. The SVBs target the mid-summer ones too much. I'm a great gardener and keep up on weeding, mulching, etc. as long as the weather is nice. Once we start hitting the 100s? I become great at avoiding the garden in the heat. I run out there early in the morning, do the harvesting, and run indoors to escape the heat. That's when the pests and weeds start gaining the upper hand, but by then I am too hot to care. I'll go out in the evenings again if the weather is cooling off while we still have daylight. Generally this means that in fall, I have a lot of weeds to clear out, but I don't care. The older I get, the less I like being out in the heat of the day if I absolutely, positively don't have to be out there. Dawn...See MoreSquash Resistant to Squash Bug and Squash Vine Borer
Comments (16)I have grown Tatume here a couple of times. While it outcompetes squash bugs, the squash vine borers still can kill it in a year when they are really bad. I don't grow it any more because we liked the flavor/texture of Seminole harvested young (baseball to softball-sized) better than Tatume. It is a huge space hog too, and because I already grow 6-10 kinds of C. moschatas most years, the last thing I need is a space hog that isn't as tasty as they are. Bon, I couldn't help noticing how many of my favorite Texas horticulturalists (Sam Cotner, Malcom Beck, Howard Garrett) were in Howard Garrett's story about Malcom's pumpkin. (Mr. Garrett and Mr. Beck write extensively on organic gardening and all their books are excellent, and Mr. Cotner wrote THE book on growing Vegetables in Texas. I've worn out 3 copies of it and am on my 4th.) Jay White, by the way, writes regularly for Texas Gardener magazine (as does Greg Grant) and their articles and columns are the first ones I read when a new magazine arrives. It is a well-known and well-understood phenomenon that healthy plants grown in healthy soil are more disease tolerant and more pest tolerant than less healthy plants. When pests relentlessly attack plants, I try to figure out what it is about those specific plants that make them less healthy and, therefore, more alluring to pests and to diseases. Sometimes it is obvious to me because the plants under attack are growing in less healthy soil. Sometimes it is something much more subtle---like cool-season plants that are beginning to be subjected to hotter temperatures than they like. Howard Garrett makes a convincing argument for us to grow our brassicas in the fall only in this part of the country because they have less pests since they are less stressed in cooler conditions---and I believe he is right about that. And, there are some pests, like grasshoppers, that relentlessly attack everything still green in the hot summer months, whether the plants are healthy and happy are not. So, for every "rule" that we observe, their is an exception, and I find grasshoppers to be one of the exceptions to the rule that healthy plants in healthy soil are not attacked by pests and diseases. I grew up eating yellow summer squash for as far back as I can remember and nothing I've ever grown as a more pest-tolerant substitute for it is 100% acceptable. When I want yellow squash, I simply want yellow squash---nothing else will do. So, in order to have it, I just grow it in low tunnel rows under row cover and hand-pollinate it. I feel like I don't have to settle for less in my own garden, and growing Tatume instead of the yellow squash I really want is, indeed, settling for less. You'll never know how you feel about Tatume until you grow it yourself. I just wasn't crazy about the flavor and didn't find it to be a really heavy producer either. To be fair to Tatume, it never will look like a heavy producer when it is grown adjacent to Seminole because Seminole outproduces it (and everything else) every single time. There is a reason Seminole is a perennial fave in our garden----it is beaten everything else for about 15 years now, and that track record is hard to break. It has been around forever....I can remember it being on seed racks in Texas when I was a child, although I think then it likely was sold as Calabacita, because that is the name that pops into my head every time I see a packet of the seeds. For squash vine borer tolerance or resistance, as George noted, C. moschatas will win every time and, for me, the C. agyrospermas like White Cushaw, Green-Striped Cushaw and Orange-Striped Cushaw are in second place. Tatume might come in third, or actually, a distant fourth behind every kind of yellow summer squash that exists when grown under row cover. YMMV. You can grow any squash or pumpkin you want if only you'll grow them under summerweight row cover, tulle netting, mosquito netting, etc. and hand-pollinate. Does it take longer and a bit more effort? Sure it does, but it is worth it to avoid the heartbreak of losing plants to the dastardly SVBs. Dawn...See MoreC. Moschata Summer Squash Varieties Tolerant of Squash Vine Borers
Comments (16)Hazel, I grow as much of our food as I can, and that means spending tons of time preserving the harvest (via canning, dehydrating, blanching/freezing and root cellar type storage) so we'll have home-grown produce year-round. I buy a mixture of organic/non-organic food from the grocery store. I'd love to buy only organic food but we have a budget to live within and it does not allow for only organic food. I do not know if non-organic foods are less healthy and will leave that debate to the food scientists. What I do know is that I'd rather eat food that was grown in the most natural way possible. For me, eating as much naturally-grown food as possible is a personal choice. I am a 16-year cancer survivor and as soon as I was diagnosed with cancer, I began eating only an organic vegan diet. The vegan part was really hard for me because I grew up in Texas and love meat, especially beef. My family wasn't crazy about a vegan diet, but put up with it (at least when they ate at home) for me. After about 6 months, I began adding meat and dairy back to our diet. We still eat healthier that we used to but not as healthy as we did during those six months. When the National Organic Standards Board was developing the standards to be used by certified organic growers, there was much debate and compromise. Some organic food advocates felt the standards were watered down and weren't completely happy with the standards as written and implemented. Some organic advocates were disappointed and felt the organic standards were too lax and were quite vocal about that. I watched the debate with interest. For me, though, I'd rather eat organically-grown food even if the standards under which it is grown are somewhat less than perfect. One reason I grow as much of our produce as I can is because that is the only way I know exactly what was or wasn't sprayed on it. If the choice is between a strawberry grown in our garden with no chemicals sprayed on it versus a conventionally-raised strawberry that may have been sprayed with various synthetic products from 1 to 3 times a week, guess which one I'd rather be eating? Just because a pesticide, herbicide or fungicide is organic in origin does not necessarily mean it is safer than a pesticide, herbicide or fungicide that is synthetic in origin. There are some organic products I've never used and never will use. I'm planting my 18th spring garden right now (my first was planted a year before we broke ground for the house), and I have used a synthetic pesticide once (last year, to save the garden from huge hordes of grasshoppers) and it almost killed me. I won't say I'll never use a synthetic pesticide again but I hope it will be another 18 years before I feel like that is the only option left to save my garden. I even use organic pesticides sparingly and, in fact, most years I don't use them at all. I use them very selectively and only for the worst of pests. Sometimes I'll spray neem oil, for example, on one specific plant that has a pest issue but won't spray the whole garden or even that whole row. I'd rather hand-pick and use other methods to remove the pests. I never spray Spinosad because it is a broad-spectrum pesticide that can harm some beneficial insects, but I'll use it in a granular product (Slug-Go Plus) that I sprinkle on the ground to kill pill bugs and sow bugs. I also use a granular organic fire any product that contains Spinosad. Other than neem and Spinosad, I sometimes use a product containing Bt 'kurstaki' on brassicas and that's about it. I mostly rely on our population of beneficial insects to help keep the pest levels low, and on hand-picking bugs or using floating row covers to exclude them from crops. I think that produce grown in the most natural way possible tastes better, and we all know that produce fresh from the garden is the best-tasting, healthiest food around. I like being able to harvest in the morning and then use some or all of that harvest in the meals we eat that day. And, on the list of what really matters, the use of synthetic pesticides bothers me the most. I have less of an issue with synthetic fungicides or fertilizers. I think every gardener has the right to grow their plants, whether ornamental or edible, in whatever manner they choose. I just choose to grow mine as naturally as I can. When I first transitioned from conventional gardening to organic gardening in the 1990s, I essentially kept gardening exactly as I always had with the only change being that I was substituting products that were organic in origin for those that were synthetic in origin. After moving here, I began to take steps to go beyond that and that was the beginning of my progression to go sort of beyond merely growing organicallyand focus more on gardening in the most natural and sustainable way. Whether you will be pleased with the winter squash/pumpkins you chose as fall decorations depends on whether you think all autumn pumpkin displays must include big orange pumpkins. I love all the C. moschatas for fall decorations because I like their various shades from buff-colored Seminole to the almost brownish-buff color of Musquee de Provence. For 7 or 8 years before the squash vine borers found us here, I always grew huge numbers of winter squash and pumpkins in all colors---including orange, yellow, white, buff, green and some that were speckled, splotched, striped or warted. It was fun while it lasted and they made great autumn displays, but the SVBs have made it impossible for me to have that wide variety of colors now, so I am content with the colors of the C. moschata group, which mostly are in a range of buff-colored shades. Having become used to what I have now in terms of sizes and colors, I am content with pumpkins that aren't traditional jack-o-lantern types. And, sometimes I want a big orange pumpkin in the fall and plop it down in the middle of the display with my home-grown ones. Dawn...See MoreSVB and Pickleworm Resistant Squash
Comments (6)I have the same troubles, but am learning some ways to get around them. First, I wouldn't personally recommend tromboncino if you are a yellow squash fan. If you like zucchini, then yes, it's a good replacement. It has tremendously long vines. Growing moschatas is the trick. You will have no problems with SVB with them. Their stems are solid and the worms don't bother them. In 2015, I grew Tahitian melon, which I learned is virtually identical to the Pennsylvania long neck squash. It/they made delicious squash for pumpkin recipes. I could not be more pleased. The squash are very large and baked down into a stringless, flavorful squash. I prefer their flavor to butternut for sure, but you may feel differently. I am going to try yellow crookneck this year in the hopes that I have gotten rid of the SVB for the time being and might actually get something to eat this year. We will see. I tried hand pollinating them in 2014 and it works, but once canning season started, I couldn't keep up. Pickleworms don't bother my squash, but they always bother my cucumbers. If I plant early on I will get a good harvest before the pickleworms arrive here in early to mid July. Then if I wait six weeks, I can replant and have a good fall crop of cucumbers too. I tried growing parthenocarpic vines last year and growing them under cover, but trying to keep the sprawling vines covered was a time consuming task....See Moresusan2010
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