Hi Ladyslipper (a striking plant, by the way).

More knowledgeable posters will give you fuller answers, but you should have no trouble maintaining a pear on any rootstock at less than 15 feet. They are prone to shooting up, and have a reputation for being slow to come into bearing, but pruning helps fix both those problems.

I planted a good-sized Gold Spice three years ago which fruited immediately (the same year it was planted) and then again the next year, but which did nothing last year. It is loaded with spurs now.

I've cut it up quite a bit, sticking various scions onto it, and if the gods are smiling I might get a crop this year. It's on OH x F???. I have it at about 10 feet now and will keep it below 12 or so.

Here's a link to a discussion on this subject:

file:///C:/My%20Documents/Fruittrees/Fruit%20Tree%20Height%20-%20Fruit%20&%20Orchards%20Forum%20-%20GardenWeb.htm

Then here's a quote from a post Don Yellman (Jellyman) made in response to a question of mine:

>>RE: Too late to prune apple trees?

clip this post email this post what is this?
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* Posted by jellyman 6/7VA (My Page) on
Tue, Sep 5, 06 at 11:59

Mark:

I think it depends on the tree and its individual circumstances and characteristics. Summer pruning places stress on a tree. In my orchard, where all the trees are healthy and vigorous, and mulched at least once a year with a thick layer of stable manure, that stress is a positive factor since it promotes fruiting spur development and helps control unwanted vegetative growth.

I don't think I would summer prune a weak, sick, or spindly tree, or a very young tree that is just establishing its scaffold. But when they reach 5-6 years of age and begin substantial fruit production, I think you can switch over entirely to summer pruning so long as trees remain healthy.

One other thing I have done to the apple trees in recent years is to completely remove the central leaders and change them over to more of a vase shape. I think this has improved the color and quality of the apples, as well as making the trees easier to spray, thin, and pick. And I have cut off these major leader branches in late summer to try to discourage the bushy regrowth that will inevitibly occur at the pruning cut. Regrowth still occurs, but it is less vigorous than if done in the dormant season. When bushy regrowth occurs in the center of the trees, I cut it off immediately as I wander around the orchard. I usually carry a pruning shears in my back pocket when I am out there.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VAYou've asked a good question- and one which we all keep wrestling with. But I think the bottom line on your planting is that yes, you can plant under the power line and maintain your tree at an acceptable size without compromising fruit production, and you don't have to be constrained by questions of dwarf/semi-dwarf/standard.

I didn't try to answer your question "Is there an advantage to growing a standard tree ..." because (1) I don't know what a "standard" tree is and (2) I wouldn't know the answer if I did! Pears have been grown on a number of rootstocks (quince, seedling, OH x F crosses, even Medlar, I guess) in efforts to fight fireblight and control size, and I'm not sure there are clear definitions now.

Short answer: Plant the dern thing and keep the shears at hand.

Good luck,

M

Asian pears are naturally dwarfing due to their intense fruiting habit. You have a wide range of size control because it is almost impossible to stop this species from fruiting even on the most vigorous of rootstocks- just keep them at the size you want them by pruning leaving the smaller twigs alone (don't stub them).

ladyslipper
harvestman is right when he states that Asian Pears are natural dwarfing but I would also state that they tolerate pruning well. The most important thing I have determined is to have a good Pollinator and the Yoinishi is considered by many to be the Universal Pollinator. I had 6 Asian Pear trees,mostly Korean Giant(don Bae) in my small back Yard and had a fair production but once I planted the Yoinishi I've had to thin90% of the fruit. I got my trees from Burntridge Nursery. You can reach them at www.burntridgenursery.com. they specialize in Asian fruit and are very reasonable

Jim

Jim,

What do you do with so many Asian pears? Do you sell them or process them in some way?

Asian Pears have a long shelf life. My wife who is Korean,by birth, shares them as well as eats them almost daily. She also makes her own pear juice. I don't particularly like Asian pears myself. The only Pear I will eat is the Bosc unless I can find some Pear Preserves made with Seckel Pears.
Jim

My first Asian pears - on standard Harbin pear rootstock, are 10-12 years old, and all are under 10 ft tall - with little or no pruning other than to clip out fireblight hits here and there.
15 ft should easily be do-able, even with minimal pruning.
Chojuro is my favorite - lovely fruits with a butterscotch undertone.

the only rootstock to use for Asian pears is betulaefolia Reimer. If you don't believe me, just ask any of the real nurseries.