That's up to you, Stella is self fertile, ..it seems you got quite a bit of room so this is what you could do, let your leader come off higher which is better for deer, get another tree and plant it close, now you have two trees side by side and you can compare over the years how they do until they have fruits. Then chop the one down which doesn't perform to your likings.

There are only 2 truly dwarfing rootstocks available for cherry, as far as I know: Gisela 5 and Krymsk 5, so make sure you know what your rootstock is before you buy. If the person selling doesn't know, then it isn't. With these you can prune to a vase and keep the tree at about 10 feet and it won't be too hard to net so that you can actually ripen the fruit before the birds get them. It was the wetness that caused cracking in your cherries, not ripeness. Vandalay is my favorite cherry, black, just like Bing, but resistant to cracking, and self fruitful so it sets fruit in poor weather. In our rainy spring this year in Western Washington my tiny one year old tree that the deer pruned last summer so it really is tiny (less than 4 feet high) set 6 cherries! It is on Gisela 5. You don't need another tree for pollination. You can get them from Raintree, but it is too late for this year.

Fruitnut: Thanks for sharing. I realize what the commercial concerns are (likely why labeled precocious anyway, advising commercial farmers about over-set and bland fruit). But back to my original question: Would you have considered that precocious and secondly would it have a tendency to reduce the vegetative growth next year in a container? As far as flavor, so far ALL the cherry trees are too young to judge and I harvested them too early (except for the above Stella). Therefore, they all taste about the same: just like store bought cherries (juicy, some flavor, nothing great). The Stella above may be 3 years old but has only 1 real year of growth b/c it was severely root-bound when purchased @ clearance and b/c of my care that nearly killed it. Last year it set only 2 fruits and the birds got it before I could. I don't have a Van yet, but will by next season. I've been evaluating the rootstocks and how they do (under my care) in containers before buying any more cherries. The only one that might go in-ground would be a Royal Raineer b/c I love it so much (even store bought ones) but I've yet to do that. I'll remove several dozen container citrus over the next couple years to free up space. I've got 50 citrus so far as short-term trees to enjoy growing them and pick favorite fruits, then graft onto in-ground trees. I REALLY need advice on pruning these cherries. Some of these 2yr container cherries are getting mighty long branches, yet little overall foliage. I would've tip-pruned them to stimulate sub-branching but it's only this season that I'm sure they are healthy and trust my experience caring for them. Too much re-potting, testing containers & mixes last year that I wanted to just leave them be for an entire season once healthy. I'll have to share some pics and ask for suggestions on another post. It's been fun reading your recent posts.

Not going to affect the wall, not the full sized full vigor typical plant (or similar cultivars, like those sold as 'Nana') most used for hedging here. Will eventually grow above head height, after many years, if living there long enough. Same situation as other slow-growing shrubs that may last a long time, after so many years of so many inches per year of growth you end up with a fairly big bush. The main problem I see with 'Otto Luyken' here is that this one seems particularly susceptible to Prunus Shot Hole, with the result that local plantings rather often look as though vandals had been firing shotguns through the bushes. Other than that a handsome perky evergreen shrub. Some fruits are sometimes formed but I do not very often see spontaneous seedlings resembling that particular type. Of course, it may give off some seedlings of normal (more typical for the species) appearance - I don't know.