Corrigan, I think, as they say in Las Vegas, "you are trying to make your point the hard way". It doesn't matter what way your form your beds, its the sun exposure that makes the difference and since you are aware that some plants will be taller....or with more foliage, than others, then it comes down to how you plan your beds. Make a sketch of just how you see your vegetables in the beds. As far as how the beds receive sunlight, that can depend on other obstancles --such as trees, buildings, fences etc. The main concern about raised beds is how they drain well and how you can properly moisturize the soil. If you have, perhaps, an automatic sprinkling system, that would not be what your vegetable patch would like since the water is timed and such watering may not be according to how the plants should be given their watering. Since beds that are raised---even slightly, will drain much better than surface beds, a better means of delivering water--such as a hose that will reach satisfactorily the furthest plants. One point; the size of the bed is good...4 by 8, since this allows you to easily reach the center of each patch without having to step into the bed....thus preventing compacting the soil there. You mention in other years your tomatoes have had problems. You should really do a google search on each vegetable you plan on putting in for their advisability to be rotated. As long as the patch is 10 feet away from where it was prior to, that is OK. Then there are families of vegetables that should be considered to be planted near each other. In this way, like vegetables can be given applications of fertilizer and pesticide in a like manner. Crop rotation prevents building diseases up in the soil and preserves micro-nutrients. Rotating is not very difficult, but does take a little advance planning as well as a basic knowledge of the vegetable families. Vegetables are broken down into basic family groups. These groups should be rotated together as they use soil in similar ways and share similar pests. Alliums Include Onions, Garlic, Scallions, Shallots, and Leeks Brassicas include Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and Kale. Crucifers include Turnips, Radishes, Rutabaga, and Collards. Cucurbits Include Cucumbers, Squashes (from zucchini to pumpkin), and Melons. Legumes Include Peas and Beans. Solanaceae Include Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant. Perennial vegetables such as Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes should not be rotated and therefore should be planted separately. The rest should be rotated every year on a four year plan (so that the same family of vegetables is not planted in the same location within four years). This is easy to accommodate if you have planted four beds for your rotating plants and one bed for your non-rotating perennials. See where that advanced planning starts to come in handy? Rhubarb can be re-invigorated once it loses its good growing..dig up the plant, remove at least 1/2 the soil it has there with some good compost. Wood ashes can be added to soil that is heavy loamÂbut do add lots of humus with compost. If annual vegetable crops are grown in the same place year after year, there is a risk that soil borne pests and diseases will become a problem, and that plant health and vigour will decline. Organised rotation helps to prevent the build up of problems in the soil. Likewise, there are certain combinations of plants that will inhibit the growth of one or both types of plants. Here are a few combinations to avoid: Potatoes  inhibit growth of tomatoes and squash Beans  inhibit growth of onions Broccoli  inhibits growth of tomatoes Carrots  inhibit growth of dill This isnÂt to say that you canÂt grow these plants together in the same garden, just donÂt grow them right next to each other.

Row direction makes a difference in yield only in tall crops with open space between rows. This would be things like orchards where NS rows are recommended. For most things other factors are more important.

I have planter boxes - 3 to 4 ft. x 6 to 8 ft. - so if I grow climbing beans or snow peas in them, I like the boxes to be east/west - so that as these veggies climb, they will be in back (northerly). More can also be planted that way. Shorter stuff is planted in front, cabbage, broccoli, etc., and plant garlic/onions along the front facing south - not shading as much the medium-sized plants behind. Its important in our fall/spring growing season (Oct - April) as the sun goes south, to try to "catch" as much sunshine as possible. Fruit trees are planted on the north side of the house - a short distance away from the house, to get maximum sun. Shade ornamentals for dry environments and ground cover are planted under and around fruit trees to conserve moisture and - hopefully - eye-appealing (when kept weeded). Bejay

We always plant our garden North to South--why I don't know. Maybe it is the way our lot is or maybe because the flower heads always turn towards the south and the sun. If you are planting corn and sunflowers there will be shade no matter where or which way you plant. You won't be planting just one plant like you would a tree. If I was doing it, I would plant the corn along the back fence where your compost is now. It would get enough sun and not shade anything else in the garden. As for sunflowers With the regular ones they take up room and cast shadows too. In the past few years there has been an explosion of sunflower varieties. Some are relatively shorter than their 6 foot cousins. Whatever you do don't plant them together. Sunflowers are greedy feeders and will sap the good from the corn.