ground covers between concrete pads

17 years ago

After removing the 2" wide wood separator strips from our concrete patio, I laid drip irrigation in the holes, then laid sod between my concrete pads. (2" wide strips.) Although the sod looks terrific and provides continuity of design with the contiguous lawn, it is not without some issues, so I am thinking I would like to replace the sod with an evergreen low growing ground cover, one that likes full sun and part shade and is deer proof. Any ideas?

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Comments (7)

inkognito
17 years ago
In the hope of stimulating something positive, I am really glad that this is not my problem.
zzepherdogg
17 years ago
If you have the attention to detail to apply drip system in the crack between cement blocks and a cover them with sod, you could probably become some type of whiz at Bonsai or Orchids or sme other labor intensive pursuit. Thats alot more planning than Ive ever considered. What about watercress? (Just kidding). lots of really tough little creeping plants may not want that much water. Although a scotch moss might work.
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I wouldn't mind having a better look at that wall before suggesting something with a lot of root mass, like daylilies or shrubs. There is not much lean on that wall and pressure from within is the last thing you want. I've been poking around my rock walls and garden lately and have noted how much root mass is tending to migrate to areas of consistent dampness. For example, I have a pot standing next to a plant that has a bulky root mass, and although the plant can grow best where there is light, the woody base has pushed itself under the pot. Quite intriguing. In your situation, this tendency is aggravated by the downhill slope, which is where water, and thus roots, will go. Therefore a plant that spreads by stolons would probably not grow uphill, but you may not want to risk it - so none of your Houttuynias or St. John's wort, for example. Something that mats, in contrast, could easily by mowed by the neighbour (or their mowing people). A couple of matting plants that I have had good success with are a spreading veronica (note to self and others: do NOT google "spreading veronica") and a matting dianthus with bright pink flowers. Not sure how they would handle full sun in your climate, but the moisture retention of the rock would help. I think the thymes would be OK too. Which way they spread would partly be determined by the sun - they would grow primarily toward it. I agree that the sedums are not as weed-suppressing as you might think. One that might be would be Sedum 'Angelique', and there are others. Sedum acre would probably also work - but as Yardvaark's description of how to root it suggests, it is rather easy to propagate and so your neighbour's mowing might get it all over her yard - so easy to miss a bit that falls. 'Angelique' will also root where it drops, but because it's bigger and not as fragile it is easier to control the bits. All ground covers need periodic haircuts to avoid getting leggy, woody, and sparse. KarinL
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yeah, moss would be awesome, but i think it is too sunny, plus i didn't think moss stands up to much foot traffic...? the only reason i thought maybe some kind of grass is because i have this image in my head of old cobblestone paths or streets that have grass growing in between... and i don't get the impression anyone is cutting it! in fact, i googled grass and "in between cobblestones" and it was quite hilarious what came up: loads of very romanticized references to the image... do a google image search of GRASS BETWEEN COBBLESTONES and you'll see a bunch of the kind of image i am talking about. like look at this (scroll down just a tad)-- http://www.socketsite.com/3444%20Washington%20Backyard.jpg how do you do that?? anyway, i'm totally open to not-grass, of course... Here is a link that might be useful: image of grass between cobblestones
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This is a 48'x80' shed that I am building. I am just using it to give you a visual idea of what you could do with the existing pad. If you wish to use the pad but make the shed larger than 6x10. Say 10x12 for example. Dig down below the surface of the outer edges of the pad (much like digging a ditch) to the desired size. Measure and set the post to the size shed you want. On the bottom outside of the post nail 2X's (4,6 etc) so that they are level with the pad. Then fill the void with gravel base and then concrete to make the entire pad level. Build the shed. You can go back later and paint the pad which is now your floor to make the finish even between old and new construction. Once I have the roof finished on my shed. I will go back and remove the grass and run a compactor over the surface. Lay a bed of compacted gravel over that. Then nail 2"x6"'s level around the outside of the post. and pour the concrete using them as forms. The yellow triangles are to show how this will be done. This does a few things. It allows me to drill the post and run rebar rods through them to covered with concrete. Makes the walls even with the outside stringer. Places the siding out away from the concrete pad 1 1/2" for drainage (stringer will be even with the pad making it weather proof). Adds another 6 inches of support to the corner post on two sides and three on the side wall post. Just an Idea of my way of building sheds for you to consider.
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There are pavers used for technical reasons (stormwater treatment/retention) that have gaps between them, but they are only about a 1/4 inch (search uni-ecostone)...also, you could use open grid pavers that look about like concrete fence lattice. That might provide enough room to grow....some grass?
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bahia
17 years ago
If the 10 in your reply refers to USDA zone 10 conditions, then there are 100's of groundcovers you could use in the gaps between concrete pads with drip irrigation. I am assuming you used in-line emitters with 12" or 6" o.c. spacing or soaker line. I would suggest things like Isotoma fluviatilis, Baby Tears, Dymondia(best with more sun and let somewhat dry in between irrigations),Dwarf Mondo Grass, Irish or Scotch Moss, Australian Violet, etc, etc. I hope that you have this area valved separately from the other drip within the garden, because in such a limited space you don't need more than just a few minutes daily to keep it well watered, and if it is drip connected to other drip areas, you are probably watering much longer than that.

You might also consider using mexican pebble laid on edge and mortared in place as an alternative to ground cover, as almost any ground cover will eventually require clipping and grooming to keep it neat, which I suppose was your reason to remove the grass.

If you do want to explore the grass look alike options, Carex pansa or Zoysia grass would also be good options, and require less clipping on a weekly basis than fescue or other cool season grasses.
karinl
17 years ago
Funny, I have a patch of 2 ft square concrete slabs with 2" gaps where we have just installed sod strips after years of trying to get ground covers established. Fighting with the weeds became an intolerable nightmare.

I think the right answer depends on what your issues are with the grass. Don't like the clipping? Problem with elevation change between slabs and strips? Weeds?

The answer also depends on your expectations. For instance, whether you want something evergreen (may be a given in your climate), and whether you want something to creep over the surface of the stones. Grass will do this, of course, if the soil level is high enough, but not like woolly thyme, for instance, which could completely cover the slabs within a year or two. Finally, expectations regarding weeding - mondo grass is wonderful, but you have to plan for a couple of years of intensive weeding until it is established enough to compete.
mjsee
17 years ago
I think the mini-mondo would work...but I still think turf is probably the best/easiest solution. What is it doing, or not doing, that you don't like?
Frankie_in_zone_7
17 years ago
I have had good success with dwarf mondo, if not too much baking sun. It grows well in almost full shade here.
Saypoint zone 6 CT
17 years ago
Grass will grow out onto the tops of the concrete areas in time. Unless you don't mind this, you will need to "edge" these areas continually.

One of the more compact creeping Thymes might be nice, and smells wonderful when you step on it. It probably doesn't need the irrigation once it's established, but I've never gardened in your zone.

ground covers between concrete pads

Comments (7)

inkognito

zzepherdogg

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bahia

karinl

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Frankie_in_zone_7

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