Looks good. I would add gypsum as the Ca source if you're making your own media.

Al

A1 thanks for chimming in. One question though: why not use dolomite lime for Ca source, or are you finding gypsum to be better? Thanks.

Damon

The only reason I said gypsum is because the fertilizer already contains Mg, but not Ca. It's important that you keep the Ca:Mg ratio in the range of around 2-4:1. I didn't want you to add the lime, which contains both Ca and Mg (which is already in the fertilizer) because it might negatively affect the Ca:Mg balance & cause an antagonistic deficiency of Ca. Your call though. Because the CRF is slow release, it may not become an issue at all.

Al

Ah-ha.....got it. Thanks again A1.

Damon

With a slow release fertilizer like this lasting 8 months, would you need to repot after the 8 months has expired?

The need to repot is related to how tight the roots are OR to the condition of the soil. If you work real hard at it, you could find a way to bring nutrition into the picture because of the negative impacts of tight roots and collapsed soils, but it would be a tertiary issue at best. Nutrition is 'YOU-related'. ;o)

Al

Tertiary- a : of third rank, importance

A very similar product is available for those preferring a larger quantity. From farm and nursery supplies by Simplot. Cost is about $60 for 50lb bag. Al

What about the amount of Calcium and Magnesium in tap water? I'm asking this because Dr. Carl Whitcomb seems to put big emphasis on testing water for it to figure out how much dolomite lime to use to use for the mix.

If you know your water is hard-very hard then it's going to be high in alkalinity (containing at least calcium). The generic recommendation I have seen in such cases is to reduce lime by as much as 50%.

I sometimes wonder if one factor in why I rarely deal with blossom end rot is due to my water supply coming from a limestone well.

Lou - All who write about plant production operations place considerable emphasis on analyzing and correcting water from problem sources, and allowing for the solubles dissolved in the irrigation water by taking them into consideration when calculating nutritional supplementation programs. These operations have the wherewithal to correct, because they essentially make their own fertilizers and inject it into the (irrigation) water supply. As hobbyists, most of us don't have that luxury. If we know what is in our water, we can make educated guesses based on the analysis, but let's face it - few hobby growers have any idea what is in the water.

Most of us can grow plants that make us happy, in spite of our relative ignorance (almost all hobby growers, including me), with a little effort and attention to details, and some of us are natural tinkerers and are able to squeeze a little extra out of our plants. I suppose, in the end, it all depends on how inclined we are to go the extra mile to try to figure out as many intricacies and nuances as possible, and then figure out how to properly employ them ...... which is why we all meet here pretty regularly. ;o)

Al

Damon,

Here is the link to the BEST (Simplot) 19-6-12 fertilizer calistoga was referring to. Locally (in Campbell) it is available at Erwin Landscape Supply (where I get my Turface) in 50 pound bags. I am going to buy a bag and trial it against Tomato-tone, supplemented with Actinovate this Season.

Raybo

Here is a link that might be useful: 19-6-12 CRF Fertilizer

BTW, I just called Ewing Landscape Supply, and they sell it at $43.00 for the 50 pound bag. Not a bad deal compared to paying over $2.00 per pound for the "New" Tomato-tone. Let the Trials begin!!!

Raybo

Here is a link that might be useful: BEST Distributors in the Campbell area

WOW! I just called the other BEST distributor in Campbell (Sierra Turf Supply) and they gave me a price of only $33.00 for the 50# bag. That comes out to be $0.66 per pound. Will be over there tomorrow to grab 2 bags.

Raybo

The only difference I see between this fertilizer and the much more expensive Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is that FP contains 2% Calcium whereas the ALL SEASON 19-6-12 contains 2% Iron instead. Any opinions on which would be more suitable for Tomatoes? Also, what can be added to the ALL SEASON to bring up Calcium by 2%.

Raybo

The only difference I see between this fertilizer and the much more expensive Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is that FP contains 2% Calcium whereas the ALL SEASON 19-6-12 contains 2% Iron instead. Any opinions on which would be more suitable for Tomatoes?

Raybo, they could not possibly be more different. FP is a liquid water soluble, all CRFs are CRFs meaning that while they are water soluble their release rate is not immediate, but governed by temperature.

The biggest problem I see with granulars and CRFs is that you can't extend their useful period by adding more. Ultimately all granulars and CRFs will fail to support plant needs eventually. At this point it's necessary to provide a water soluble liquid to keep the plants going.

My personal preference is to 'skip the middle man' and just start and finish with the water soluble liquids. I have yet to find or hear of a way to more consistently provide my plants with a reliable supply of nutrients.

Now, ignoring the fact one is a liquid and the other a CRF, I would go with the one with more calcium for tomatos. Why? Because tomatos are one of those plants notorious for blossom end rot. Normally this is a problem with calcium mobility rather than calcium availability, but it's hard to over dose calcium so I would rather have a little too much Ca with tomatos (if there is such a thing) than worry about iron which is a minor nutrient (Calcium is a secondary macro nutrient that many plants need more of then phosphorus which is considered a primary macro). Iron is surely important, but when is the last time you heard of a tomato with an iron deficiency? At worst perhaps your tomato leaves aren't as dark a green as you would like, but yield/quality is terrific. Short the plant on calcium and the yield is rotten ;)

justaguy,

As always, thanks for your expert advise! If I do trial the ALL SEASONS CRF in my SWC EarthTianers, what would you recommend as an additive to up the Calcium content suitable for tomatoes?

Thanks,

Raybo

excuse my typing tonight as i'm very tired from taping drywall all day.

To be honest, I just got tired of adding fp to my swc's. and thats why i want something like a crf to carry me through the majority of the season and then i can supplament with fp.

Ray,

I'm gonna give the crf i have a go this year and let you know my results. Let me know how your crf works out for you this season.

Damon

As always, thanks for your expert advise! If I do trial the ALL SEASONS CRF in my SWC EarthTianers, what would you recommend as an additive to up the Calcium content suitable for tomatoes?

Foliage Pro. Of course that makes the CRF redundant ;)

As Damon indicated, some will find adding a water soluble to their SWC too much work. I get that. The reason I do it is I haven't found a solution to granulars/CRFs wearing out mid season at which point I have to use water solubles anyway.

As a compromise solution I would recommend using the water soluble in more concentrated form, less often than every refill. Saves time/work.

I just haven't yet seen any real advantage to using anything other than water soluble for containers. I tried the organic, media as nutrient source route, the slow release synthetics, the Espoma organics and the CRFs. They all peter out mid season forcing me to resort to the water solubles.

I figure why use anything other than water solubles any longer? YMMV

Hey Damon,

Yes, let stay in touch regarding CRFs in SWC containers. I am going to devote a 'Taner of Goose Creek for the ALL SEASONS 19-6-12 CRF, a second Goose Creek 'Tainer with the "Old" Tomato-tone, and a third Goose Creek 'Tainer with the "New" Tomato-tone. I think this will be the most objective comparison that I can devise.

BTW, how did that fancy drywall coffered ceiling ever turn out? It would be interesting in seeing the final result.

Raybo

justaguy,

As Dolomite Lime is 55% Calcium Carbonite CaCO3 and about 30% Magnesium Carbonate MgCO3, wouldn't adding in 3 cups into a 31 gallon EarthTainer supplement the lack of Calcium in the ALL SEASONS 19-6-12 CRF?

I do realize this CRF will not last through an entire 100 day growing season, but if it gets me half-way through before needing to add water soluble fertilizer into the water reservoir, I can live with that frequency of maintenance.

Raybo

Here is a link that might be useful: Baker Dolomite Lime analysis

As Dolomite Lime is 55% Calcium Carbonite CaCO3 and about 30% Magnesium Carbonate MgCO3, wouldn't adding in 3 cups into a 31 gallon EarthTainer supplement the lack of Calcium in the ALL SEASONS 19-6-12 CRF?

Most likely.

I can really only speak from my own experience. I add lime, use a fert with Ca and my water is from a limestone well. I rarely have BER issues. If your fert has no Ca and you have soft water then YMMV. I do realize this CRF will not last through an entire 100 day growing season, but if it gets me half-way through before needing to add water soluble fertilizer into the water reservoir, I can live with that frequency of maintenance.

Based on my own experience with CRF and granulars in containers I would say you will be fine for 1-2 months and then the fert will begin to not have enough 'oomph'. If you are OK with this and anticipating this then I see no problems at all with your plan.

My own water has enough alkalinity that I feel the need to acidify it before use so adding a water soluble fert at the same time is no biggie to me, but I do understand that for others it's not at all convenient.

I think your plan will work just fine, Raybo. You already have enough experience under your belt to understand the granulars wear out before season end and have a plan to deal with it.

Hey wait a minute here, my crf says it feeds up to 8 months (lol)! To be safe I'll cut that guesstimate in half so thats leaves me with 4 months! I know a spell of hot weather can burn that stuff up even faster but i keep my swc's off the ground and protected from the sun, so they stay reasonably cool.

Damon

Myself, personally, I don't really care for CRF or granular fertilizers. I see too much variance in how they dissolve over time, and it makes me wonder about the consistency rate at which they actually feed plants. I think I get a much more reliable feed rate when I use liquid fertilizers. It gives me complete control.

I do throw a bit of Osmocote in my annual floral hanging baskets, and some in my patio pots of annual ornamental flowers... but for my other plant types and my indoor containers, I use a liquid feeding regimen. I find it no more trouble than filling the containers that I store the water in for watering... adding it takes what, a few seconds more? I can live with that.