Fallgold turns out to be an interesting raspberry cultivar. Without knowing which plant(s) you sprayed insecticide on and when with respect to the observed pathology, I would say the yellowing, the leaf burn and browning could be caused by chemical damage either from earlier use of insecticide or chloride sensitivity from fertilizers, the beginning of potassium (and magnesium and manganese) deficiencies, poor soil drainage and root growth and root damage, or a combination of these factors. The reduced plant growth and wilting of young tips are more likely related to insufficient soil drainage needed by Fallgold and root damage. Since the causes of plant pathology cannot be differentiated by symptoms alone most of the time, you will have to research and compare the written descriptions and images, or use the diagnostic tool referenced below to ascertain the definitive problems because you have more complete information on the growing conditions and history with these plants and can observe the progression of the symptoms better than anyone. Incidentally, I would repot the strawberries separately without the Fallgold. Many horticultural specialists, including the fruit guide published by Cornell Cooperative Extension suggests, "Do not plant brambles in a site where strawberries or plants in the tomato family (including potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) have been grown" to avoid verticillium wilt (same guidelines for strawberries from other expert sources as well). You may be using a sterile potting mix growing your Fallgold and strawberries together for the first time which does reduce the crop loss potential somewhat. However, verticillium wilt can still happen at any time and because soil-borne fungus Verticillium also can persist in the soil for many years, it may be best not to growth them together even in sterile potting mix. I would say since mitigating the causes related to cane blight and root rot at this stage would be the least detrimental to your plants and most productive in maximizing root health and growth with the information/photos given from my partially informed perspective, I would aim at improving soil drainage first by amending the potting soil to increase the porosity or letting potting mix dry out more between watering either by protecting the planters from rain temporarily or in the near future. If similar leave yellowing, browning, curling, and death repeat themselves and the vitality of the raspberries dose not rebound with improved root health from the amended potting mix, it makes sense then to work on resolving other possible causes, such as chemical injuries and mineral deficiencies. IMAGES OF COMMON DISEASES IN RASPBERRIES See images of root rots in raspberries at: http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/plant_images/drroot6.jpg and http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/comhort/nooksack/ipmweb/Disease_Sheet_5.html. Read and see images of leaf burn caused by insecticides and fertilizers, http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/BerryDoc/raspberry/leavesstems/Raspbrowning.htm Since two identical plant variety exhibit possible symptoms of either blight and root damage from too much moisture or leaf burn caused by insecticide and fertilizers with the first year plant affected more severely than the second year Fallgold, how do these two plants differ in growing conditions, such as potting mix, rain/water, fertilizing rate, or plant care if any? In addition, are there differences or variations in these factors as compared to a third planter, the red container, where strawberries are thriving? CONTAINER #2, this years Fallgold I know you mentioned (along with your photos) that the leaf curl and marginal necrosis got worse after you repotted them, but repotting did not rule out the continuation of wet feet or further root damage if enhanced drainage of the growing medium or increased oxygen uptake by the roots did not take place or significantly counter the added wet and cooler growing conditions. Did you also amend the potting mix to increase the porosity and drainage when you repotted the raspberries? Raspberries require well-drained soil which is especially essential to the Fallgold cultivar, because it is intolerant of wet soils. If the root rot has not affected all the roots (appears to be true in your case), itÂs possible that without amending your potting mix, the problems of rot, leaf curl, and marginal necrosis will disappear on their own and the plant will rebound once you remove the damaged leaves and just shield the planters from excessive rain/water temporarily and by allowing the soil to dry out sufficiently in between watering. On the other hand, since symptoms of poor soil drainage and root rots have had happened a few time, these are signs that it may be worth your effort (and for the plants) to amend the potting mix to increase the needed drainage and aeration of the potting mix with additional perlite, pinebark, Turface, or other soil conditioners in buffering the effects of any recent and future unusual precipitation and temperature or any less than optimal drainage before blossoming and fruiting come into full force. If you are watering 2x per week or less with the rain now with the current potting mix, try to increase the porosity of the mix to maybe watering every other day at a minimum, for example, and then bserve the effects or changes in the raspberries. Increase the drainage of your potting mix may also eliminate the presence of a perched water table on the lower part of the planter (see threads of Al explaining the physics of it) causing sufficient waterlog that can lead to poor root health, rot, and eventual root death. Watering more often will also increase fresh supplies of oxygen to the roots for good root growth and enhanced plant vitality in addition to providing the additional water needed in the upcoming blossoming and fruiting growth stages. Whatever mix you used in the red container (with the strawberries), maybe you can reproduce it to grow your Fallgold, that is assuming the red container of strawberries also gets similar watering, care, and amount of rain as your Fallgold. In fact, the strawberries in that red container look a little dehydrated from the last photo though the leaves look very healthy; they look like they are wilting a bit (or is that leaf curl canÂt be sure from looking at the pictures). CONTAINER #1, second year Fallgold Though with possibly better root helath than the first year Fallgold, this Fallgold may still suffer from poor root health or damage. I donÂt think the second-year Fallgold is diseased with viral infection or pests. On the other hand, I canÂt be certain of that by looking at the pictures as the second year Fallgold seems to have fairly healthy flat unblemished leaves in one picture but then the overall leave colors and shapes arenÂt ideal nor are they flat in the final picture. Thus, Tomato Ringspot Virus and potato leafhopper damage are possibilities based on the leaf discoloration, possible yellow rings and/or line patterns on the leaves, and overall color and growth. Marginal yellowing and downward leaf curl could be potato leafhopper damage. See infected raspberry images at: Figure 2- Potato Leafhopper, http://apps.omafra.gov.on.ca/scripts/english/crops/agriphone/article.asp?ID=1312 According to the Cooperative Extension Service from University of Minnesota, "Tomato ringspot virus is carried to healthy plants through the soil by the root feeding dagger nematode (Xiphinema sp.). Yellow rings, line patterns, or veinal chlorosis commonly appear on the leaves of red raspberry plants. However, new leaves are often void of symptoms. Severely infected plants may appear stunted, yield crumbly fruit, produce poor yields, and/or show a reduction in plant health. Tomato ringspot virus can also be dispersed through infected seed." Source: Raspberry Diseases," University of Minnesota, http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1152.html In general, there is little that can be done to manage a viral infection, and the viral infection often has to be confirmed and tested by a lab. Therefore, I wouldnÂt worry about them for now other than providing improved soil drainage to your raspberries first. REDUCED VIGOR OF BOTH PLANTS The cause of decline in vigor can be caused by virus infection, root damage, nutrient deficiency, and soil compaction. However, once your raspberries have healthier roots and root growth with an increased air-to-moisture ratio, soil drainage, and porosity of the growing media, you would automatically increase the vitality of the plant and eliminated most, if not all four, factors causing reduced growth. Whatever is the actual cause attributed to the pathology, youÂll find most of the browning, yellowing, slow growth, and leave scorch will disappear if you can ensure good root health through improved soil drainage by shielding the planters from receiving and retaining uncalculated precipitation for a long period of time. CANE WILTING & COLLAPSING These can be symptoms root rot, winter injury, cane borers, and spur blight. Raspberry cane borers have been reported in Colorado. Source: Missouri Botanical Garden on Goldfall, http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?Code=W520 See images of affected raspberries at CornellÂs Raspberry Diagnostic Tool, http://www.hort.cornell.edu/department/faculty/pritts/BerryDoc/raspberry/caneslaterals/Rwilting.htm Let us know what is true and works in your case and if the vitality of your raspberries has improved. Enjoy your berries and have fun caring for them.

Is replacing the potting soil really necessary as long as the roots don't need to be trimmed or anything like that? - is similar to asking if you have to drink as long as your body doesn't need water. It's inevitable that it will, just as it's inevitable that root congestion and soil collapse (of highly organic soils like Miracle Gro, the 5:1:1 mix, et al) are assured. To give your plants the best opportunity to grow as near their genetic potential as possible, you need to be proactive in ensuring your soil is structurally able to do its job, that roots aren't overly congested. Think of it in terms of preventive maintenance ..... like the mechanic on the old Framm (auto parts) commercial says with a slightly evil grin, "You can pay me now, or you can pay me later." Mineral soils (gardens) don't compact if the particles are large enough, but we know that silt and clay soils DO compact. If we can get enough organic matter into the soils and ensure good drainage, soil biota will be active, moving through the soil and improving tilth - keeping it from compacting. Containers are generally inhospitable environs for soil life, so as particles become increasingly smaller as they break down, compaction and water retention increase, robbing roots of the O2 they need to remain healthy & function normally. Soils like the gritty mix, because they are 2/3 inorganic remain serviceable indefinitely, but root congestion marches on. Many growers allow used gritty mix to dry, then put it in a tub and 'float off' the organic fraction (bark) and reuse the Turface/granite. I don't bother because it often has weed seeds in it and isn't worth my effort (a personal decision). Also, many soils contain pathogens that could carry over to the next batch. There are other reasons as well, but I guess the point I'd impress is that root maintenance of perennial plants is a good idea if your plan is to keep a plant for the long term and keep it healthy. Regular root work and pruning of the top has a rejuvenating effect on plants, too. In the end, it's up to you. Some people are happy buying new plants and tossing the old as vitality wanes from neglecting the maintenance. I make no judgement about others who prefer that to regular maintenance - it's simply how they order their priorities, and I'm fine with whatever they decide - my only goal is to make sure people understand what's involved in making the decision. For myself, I look at it as a personal failure if a plant dies while in my care. I hate it. ;-) I think that just the understanding of what limitations are associated with things like soil collapse and root congestion go a long way toward making most of us want to guard against them to whatever degree we deem appropriate. This is a case where no one should argue that someone must do this or that, or pass judgment if they don't, but at the same time it shouldn't be said that these things have no impact on growth/vitality just because someone chooses to ignore them. Best luck!! Al

Lindy: I've got a similar looking condition on some of my potted fruit trees. I don't know what it is. My guess is too wet or a salt problem. Root rot sounds like too wet. It is very hard growing most fruit in a container. The Fruitnut

Something I often leave on threads like this - a copy/paste from something I wrote on another thread: In my estimation, the only convincing case to be made for reusing container soils is one of economics, and you'll never find me argue against making that decision. If you can't afford, you can't afford it. That said and setting economics aside, you might decide to reuse soil for reasons other than economical. Perhaps the effort involved with acquiring (or making your own) soil is something you might not wish to go through or be bothered with. In any case, it would be difficult to show that soils in a more advanced state of structural collapse can somehow be preferred to a soil that can be counted on to maintain its structure for the entire growth cycle. So, if the economic aspect is set aside, at some point you must decide that "my used soil is good enough" and that you're willing to accept whatever the results of that decision are. All soils are not created equal. The soils I grow in are usually pine bark based & collapse structurally at a much slower rate that peat based soils, yet I usually choose to turn them into the garden or give them over to a compost pile where they serve a better purpose than as a container soil after a year of service. Some plantings (like woody materials and some perennials) do pretty well the second year in the same bark-based soil, and with careful watering, I'm usually able to get them through a third year w/o root issues. Watering habits are an extremely important part of container gardening. Well structured soils that drain well are much more forgiving and certainly favor success on the part of the more inexperienced gardeners. As soils age, water retention increases and growing becomes increasingly difficult. If your (any one's) excellence in watering skills allows you to grow in an aging medium, or if your decision that "good enough" is good enough for you, then it's (your decision) is good enough for me, too. The phrases "it works for me" or "I've done it this way for years w/o problems" is often offered up as good reason to continue the status quo, but there's not much substance there. I'm being called away now, but I'll leave with something I offered in reply on a recent thread: "... First, plants really aren't particular about what soil is made of. As long as you're willing to stand over your plant & water every 10 minutes, you can grow most plants perfectly well in a bucket of marbles. Mix a little of the proper fertilizers in the water & you're good to go. The plant has all it needs - water, nutrients, air in the root zone, and something to hold it in place. So, if we can grow in marbles, how can a soil fail? Our growing skills fail us more often than our soils fail. We often lack the experience or knowledge to recognize the shortcomings of our soils and to adjust for them. The lower our experience/knowledge levels are, the more nearly perfect should be the soils we grow in, but this is a catch 22 situation because hidden in the inexperience is the inability to even recognize differences between good and bad soil(s). Container soils fail when their structure fails. When we select soils with components that break down quickly or that are so small they find their way into and clog macro-pores, we begin our growing attempts under a handicap. I see anecdotes about reusing soils, even recommendations to do it all over these forums. I don't argue with the practice, but I (very) rarely do it, even when growing flowery annuals, meant only for a single season. Soils don't break down at an even rate. If you assign a soil a life of two years and imagine that the soil goes from perfect to unusable in that time, it's likely it would be fine for the first year, lose about 25% of its suitability in the first half of the second year, and lose the other 75% in the last half of the second year. This is an approximation & is only meant to illustrate the exponential rate at which soils collapse. Soils that are suitable for only a growing season show a similar rate of decline, but at an accelerated rate. When a used soil is mixed with fresh soil after a growing season, the old soil particles are in or about to begin a period of accelerated decay. I choose to turn them into the garden or they find their way to a compost pile. Unless the reasons are economical, I find it difficult to imagine why anyone would add garden soils to container soils. It destroys aeration and usually causes soils to retain too much water for too long. Sand (unless approaching the size of BB's), has the same effect. I don't use compost in soils because of the negative effect on aeration/drainage. The small amount of micro-nutrients provided by compost can be more efficiently added, organically or inorganically, via other vehicles. To boil this all down, a container medium fails when the inverse relationship between aeration/drainage goes awry. When aeration is reduced, soggy soil is the result, and trouble is in the making. Al