I think you mean Pink Surprise Amaryllis, or actually, Hippeastrum. Those pots that come with the bulbs are garbage, as is the soil or soil disk. Trash. Get rid of them! You bulb will absolutely require a pot with drainage holes! I prefer unglazed clay pots because they allow the roots to "breathe" and they allow excess salts to leach out through the porous material. I would obtain a pot that will allow about 2 or 3 inches of space around the bulb once it's potted. I would plant it in a well-draining, porous medium... and I would water with care. Hippeastrum bulbs do not like "wet feet", and will rot if over-watered. Make sure the soil dries out in between waterings. Feed your bulb with whatever fertilizer you prefer... I use a liquid at half strength every other time I water. Now that your bulb is finished blooming, it will grow leaves. It will require plenty of light and good care. If it receives good care, it will recharge and hopefully set new buds for next bloom cycle. It won't grow a new bulb... the one that is there will simply continue to grow... it may grow offsets, though. I hope this answers your questions. Feel free to ask any others you may have. Good luck!

The packet that my cucumbers came in says not to disturb the roots when transplanting. I haven't attempted to transplant them to dirt from water but I imagine that disturbance would occur. Fortunately, you can probably grow it as a vine and let it lay on whatever is nearby. Tomatoes can easily dwarf a human though, and do better when standing up (by keeping the fruit off of the ground). I prefer twine with tomato clips myself, but this requires something to tie the twine to. Fortunately, tomatoes don't seem to mind being transplanted to dirt. I suspect you may get more enjoyment out of the system in the picture if you use it more for getting plants to a good size for transplanting than for growing them out for fruiting. Outside of gardening season you could always grow less-huge plants in it for foliage or flowers.

ali-b, I used my tomato cages last year as hoop houses. I opened them up and arched them over my potager beds, then covered them with floating row cover. I had greens, lettuce, carrots, and onions all winter long. Our lowest temps were eleven degrees. The greens stood through that without any protection at all. I was delighted and amazed. For your climate, you would want a heavier cover, but the tomato cages worked great as the "skeleton" and the openings were large enough to reach in for harvest. As to size, my potager is just about right for the three of us (DH, mother-in-law, and me). We eat fresh food from it very nearly twelve months a year, and when I have excess, which I have had this year, I give them to a poor family in our church. They are so grateful since their landlord won't allow them to garden and fresh produce is so expensive at the grocery. I have 9 raised beds that are approximately 8'x3.5'. At the west and south corners I have dwarf apple trees. In other areas of the yard I have six blueberry bushes, a fig tree, and two plum trees (these are an experiment). I grow strawberries in two large tubs on my deck. I gardened in a traditional row garden for ten years or more. I hated it. I could never control the weeds and it was ugly (to me). I finally gave up and only went back to growing veggies last year. I stumbled upon this forum by accident and went straight to Amazon to buy books. I just love these little beds. It takes about an hour to clean one out, amend and turn it, replant, and remulch. Because it's so easy, I keep them in pristine condition and continually productive.

Just to re-state the problem -- you have two needs: 1. The cages are leaning and need to be stabilized before they fall. (Ideally, they should have been pushed much farther into the ground; you'll want to do that next year if you use them for smaller tomatoes or other plants.) 2. You need something which will handle future growth of the two vines, as well as the weight of the fruit the plant is going to bear before your growing season ends (three months from now? four?). You may be able to answer both of these needs with one strategy, or you may choose a dual strategy. I don't see the need for kterlep's cinderblock. Put a tall strong stake (any of the things on kterlep's list -- but if you use bamboo, make sure it's a good strong 1" stake; those 1/4" mini bamboos won't begin to do the job) near the wire cage and drive it at least a foot into the ground. Then fasten the stake to the cage. You'll probably want to use at least two stakes. Position them on the opposite side of the cages from the direction the cages are leaning. If you have difficulty getting the stake down that far, pull it out of the ground, fill the hole with water, wait for the soil to soften, and repeat as necessary until the stake is buried deep enough. It's not quick, but it works, and is a good method for short people. Think about the best place for you to put the vines' future growth. Keep in mind that you want to be able to see and reach the fruit (present and future) easily. Your options will include: = tying new growth to the top of a tall stake, as kterlep suggests. = letting new growth fall under its own weight, as is already happening. Of course, you're in for 3-4 months of new growth. = encouraging the plants to grow horizontally by tying multiple lines of twine from the stakes/cages to the fence. Gently tie new growth to the twine. [You could also use a small piece of the sort of garden netting that is usually used to trellis cukes, beans, etc.] = pruning the vines is another option. How much or how little you prune is up to you, but your pruning strategy should match how you decide to support your plant. And keep in mind that in your climate, flowers that set fruit in mid or late September will ripen before frost, so you'll probably want to leave at least a few branches to flower and grow you some late tomatoes. [Obviously I don't know where in GA you are or when your last frost will occur.]