You can:
Pot up to 5 gal
Use a saucer as reservoir leaving enough water to get plant through the day
Water from a reservoir with a wick
Substantially reduce the canopy

I don't "know" this plant, but I'm guessing a true repot, with root work would be more appropriate in Feb or Mar. Simply potting up now would be OK though.

Could also use a water supply above the soil that drips slowly into the plant. Soil is actually dry & you're sure it's not root temperatures inhibiting root function? What about plasmolysis (too much salt accumulation, inhibiting water movement across cell membranes)?

Al

Hi Al,

I'll get you a photo of mine tomorrow. It has huge leaves and a soft type trunk. It is a very fast grower, has doubled in size in the 3 weeks I have had it.

The soil is dry at the end of the day. It is very hot here and we have had no rain.

I've seen older specimens in the ground, and they suffer less from drought than potted ones, but require much water compared to most other trees.

I will pick up a saucer for a larger pot tomorrow. Should I just use potting soil/pine bark fines? As fast as this one grows, I will be up-potting again soon.

I can't use drip watering. I have 10 dogs who LOVE water and who will remove drippy things so they can lay on them.

I will put it in the ground as soon as we clear out more dead pines. This one will be planted close by the hose for sure!

Lisa

Here is a link that might be useful: Potato Tree Pics

You're in little danger of rotted roots if you use a reservoir as an additional water supply, as long as you don't overdo. By that, I mean you should experiment to see how much water you need to get you through the day, & only use that much - or just enough for the plant to retain turgidity. I'll back up a little here & say that I don't know the cultural preferences of the plant. It's entirely possible (didn't say probable) that the plant would tolerate roots being in saturated soil or water (salix/willow comes to mind here), I just don't know the plant. Actually, it sounds like a good opportunity for you to try the Soil Moist product and report your findings. You have had good experience with CHC's? Why not repot into that mix? Also, because of the natural vigor of the plant, and how fast it makes roots, I'd be just a little less concerned about using a heavier soil than I normally would, This could be one of those infrequent cases where a bagged soil might actually be a better choice than a very fast mix - not from a physiological perspective, but from a practicality standpoint. I realize I offered nothing clear, but I at least hope you got an idea or two.

Al

When you repot it you might try mixing in some watersorb crystals. I just ordered some to try in my indoor and outdoor potted plants as I'm getting to many to keep up with the watering. Here's a site to check it out.

http://www.watersorb.com/index.html

Happy Gardening,
Pam

I've been using a potting mix that comes with the with the water granules mixed in (Moisture Max). Started last year and I've been very happy with it. I've noticed a real difference in how often I have to water the hanging baskets in particular. Those have gone from every day to every other day or third day.
And for the really big tubs, it has eliminated watering between rain/hose sessions.
However, when I do water, the plants need more water so that the granules get plumped up again.

In my own experience, the commercial potting mix that holds the most water longest is Pro-Mix.

(Haven't tried the mixes with water crystals...someone told me those crystals can remove the water from the plant roots in dry soil, so I've avoided it.)