The above is correct about the wetting agent and also that miracle gro MC has cococoir fiber and no other additive to help maintain better moisture. I think it is a little wet myself but I have many customers that buy it and won't buy the regular miracle gro after using it and several were using it for tomatoes. I can't say I personally have used it for tomato here in Texas but I can speak for several customers that were very happy with it for a mix that they didn't make themselves from scratch like many of us that are on this forum do. I do like and continue to experiment with cococoir and have to say that I like what I have seen after my first year of testing. I still want to follow-up with a few variations this year. The quality of cococoir is the issue I worry about the most about so far but have been happy with what I am getting from a Phillipine source. Just a few thoughts on the subject from personal and customers experiences over the last year. Happy Growing David

Both peat and pine bark become hydrophobic (water repellent) when the moisture content of individual particles drops much below 30%. When this occurs, it's difficult to rewet. The best approach is to dump the dry soil into a wheel barrow or tub, add what you think is enough water to dampen the mix, mix the water in, and allow it to set overnight while, through diffusion, the water moistens the soil evenly. The mushroom compost may not have been the best idea. It breaks down quickly and is usually very high in soluble salts from the heavy urea feeding it received before it made its way into your pots. Additionally, when the moisture control feature of the soil kicks in, the addition of the compost may turn an already heavy soil into a very heavy soil. You may find it helpful to wick your containers until roots have fully explored/colonized the lower parts of the container & the length of time a perched water table affects the root system is diminished. Al

Hi aptosca - It said - for potted plants. How are you to know that doesn't mean house plants? That was one of your questions. The terms potted plants and house plants are often used interchangeably, but there is a difference. All houseplants are potted, but not all potted plants are grown in the house; many people have potted plants outside, on patios and porches, or summering their houseplants outside, or just growing-on plants for size or whatever - many reasons. Plants grown outside in pots tend to dry out faster than plants grown indoors, and that's why some people prefer "water retentive" soils for outdoor potted plants. But one thing is true outdoors or indoors - wet soil that never dries out makes for wet roots, and wet roots make for dead plants. As you can see from reading all of this thread, there's a lot of 'different strokes for different folks.' It's one reason that you find so much conflicting information if you do much research. One thing that's absolutely true, though, is that if roots stay too wet, plants die. But... That's not always true, either, because many plants are incredibly, amazingly adaptable. Species that are known to hate "wet feet" sometimes adapt to living in a constantly wet - I mean soaking wet - pot. I know, I have one. This is another source of much conflicting information. My advice to you would be to try what seems reasonable to you, what seems to fit your own requirements best. If things don't work as well as you would like, try something else. Even if you are satisfied with results, go ahead and try something different, just as an experiment. That's one reason you never get tired of working with plants, once you get into it.

I use it. But I prefer the non-moisture. The problem with the mixture in my opinion, is it's too heavy. I had to mix each of my batches with per-lite and vermiculite to make it lighter and the water to drain more readily. Just test your drainage first. If it's good then all is well.