Blueberry not doing ... anything

15 years ago

I have a couple of blueberries in a large-ish pot. It may be too deep for the blueberries, since they are shallow rooted (didn't find this out until later). They seemed to be growing and doing fine, but then they just stopped doing anything. They've been this way for about two and a half months or more. They haven't gotten very tall, they just started putting out a bunch of leaves, but the leaves are still quite small. It's like something froze the blueberry in time.

There is also some browning on a couple of leaves (not too much). The soil I used in the pot had a high percentage of peat and I'm not sure what else now, but peat was the main ingredient (70% or more). There is about a 2-3 inch layer of pine needles on top. The soil seems to drain easily, but it stays moist for a very very long time (3 weeks to a month or more). It's not soaking wet- within a few hours of watering, the soil gets to a nice sort of fluffy and moist consistency and then stays that way forever.

I tried adding white vinegar to the water once, but haven't done it since because it hasn't needed watering. Also, I wasn't quite sure what the right proportion of vinegar to water would be (takes about 2-4 gallons of water to water the pot, depending on dryness).

Any ideas of what is going on? It generally looks healthy.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (8)

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
15 years ago
There is no such thing as a container being too deep for blueberries - but there are soils that are too heavy. If the soil is appropriate, a BB will colonize a 10' deep container from top to bottom - honest. ;o)

From your description, it is certainly a water-retentive, poorly aerated soil causing your troubles. You can temporarily remedy that by adding a wick to the drain hole & allowing it to dangle below the container, or better yet - partially bury the container & let the earth do the wicking for you.

I think you've probably done more than enough to maintain acidic soil conditions, too. Even blueberries will succumb to pH induced toxicities when pH drops to extreme lows, and poorly aerated soils reduce root function and create deficiencies of many of the most important nutrients.

In short - you first need to reduce/correct the water retention issues of the soil and consider the rest secondary.

Al
ilikewinter
Original Author
15 years ago
Wow, a response from Al! =) I've read many of your posts!

I don't have any earth to put the blueberry container into (live in an apt. building), so should I just remove the drainage saucer and let the wick hang down between the cracks of the deck (wood slats)? It's the only way I can think of to get the wick to hang freely and work since I don't have anything to elevate the pot. The only thing is... my downstairs neighbor might not like the dripping too much.

What would you suggest for a medium for the wick? I tried some yarn that I have in some other pots and it worked just ok. It didn't really get that wet.

Thanks, Al.
Related Discussions
Do I have anything you may need for next year?
Q
Comments (1)
Sending you an email! Jess jessied
...See More
Can I plant anything near blueberries?
Q
Comments (1)
Blues do not compete well with any plants so I would think a minimum of 4x4
...See More
Do I do anything with Oregano in the spring
Q
Comments (2)
It doesn't need pruning as such but you can shear off the old flowers stems and any tall ratty growth. It will grow fresh stems.
...See More
Do I need to do anything to my blueberry bush or is it in good shape?
Q
Comments (8)
If the container mix is right, you'll be off to a very good start. :) I would keep an eye on the plant in the top picture. The new leaves are coming in a little yellowish. It's not uncommon for new leaves to be lighter color, but I'm not familiar with them being that pale. Without knowing the light levels, soil mix and other factors, it would be wrong to tell you what to do at this point. other than keep an eye out. Also, I would have used a smaller pot for the little 'Sunshine Blue' plant. Smaller containers are much easier to keep watered and to move around until you find the optimal location on your lot. Better to pot up in a year or two rather than try to make the plant grow into a larger container. Those are minor nits and comments, because the plant in the bottom picture looks great.
...See More
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
15 years ago
Try an old shoe lace, a strand from a rayon mop head, a woven nylon tie from a citrus/onion bag closure, - just about any kind of cord you have lying around the house. If it will absorb water, it will work well as a drainage wick.

You could also elevate the pot on 2x4 or 4x4 blocks to allow the wick to dangle above a reservoir or collection saucer.

Alikesummer
ilikewinter
Original Author
15 years ago
Ha ha... very nice play on the name, there! =)

Alright, I'll give it a go. (I'm guessing plain old cotton would be alright then, too?)

Now, how to get it in there... I think all my plants will need it that are potted with the same soil (apple, peach, raspberry). They are all in really large pots. Do you have a trick for this?

Thanks.

(Ilikesummer- only for the plants' sake) =)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
15 years ago
Fold the wick over a straight slotted screwdriver tip & push it through the drain hole into the soil. When you withdraw the screwdriver, the wick stays put. There should be a long end & a short end of the wick when you do this & the short end should stay in the container.

Always thinking of the plants, IC.
ilikewinter
Original Author
15 years ago
Sounds good, will do this. Do I need more than one in these larger containers (the containers are 25 gal. I believe)?

I am heading out of town (country! yippee!) for the weekend, so I'll check your response when I am back. Hopefully my neighbor is trustworthy enough to care for the plants during this hot time of year! (Scary to leave them home alone!)
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
15 years ago
. . . no advantage in more than 1 wick. It really doesn't matter if the perched water takes 3 minutes or 15 minutes to drain. There's also no advantage in more or larger drainage holes. As long as a single hole isn't plugged, the same lesson applies to drainage holes as wicks - it really doesn't matter if your container takes 3 minutes or 15 minutes to drain. What's important is that the/any saturated layer of soil doesn't stay around long enough to cause the death of roots of any size.

I hope you have/had fun during your weekend away!!

Al
ilikewinter
Original Author
15 years ago
Great; thanks Al. I will be getting this done to all my large containers (the others have different soil mediums in it and seem to be draining well- some TOO well, but that just means I have to be much more diligent in my watering!).