The unsprouted ones should be viable. The main problem is that a typical squash sold for the table is likely cross-pollinated; that is, it probably was grown within pollinating distance of different varieties of squash in the same species (there are three main species of eating squashes). Squash cross very, very easily and so the resulting plant grown from crossed seed will produce unreliably, you may get something that doesn't look like a butternut and may not be worth eating. Better to buy a packet at the seed rack and not waste space on a gamble, IMO...

Hi, Charlie, Good question. So many times, terms aren't defined. If you get these mounted plants, you've still got options, if they don't suit your style. I love lots of the plants people seem to sell mostly - or only - mounted, the Haraella being one. It bloomed fine, hanging out with other mounties in one of the clear glass vases, about 8"x 8" each, with stones and a bit of water in the bottom. It's the one on the left: However, it was one of almost 20 mounties that needed misting/soaking daily. If I weren't such an underwaterer, it'd be multiple times: They're always dry 24 hours later, inside or outside, unless it's raining or super humid and cloudy out. When the mounties are in the house, most are taken from vases and sprayed over a big pot, one at a time, then put back. The mounties that don't fit in a big vase are taken to the shower, sprayed, left to drip for awhile, and then taken back to the orchid room. Outside, each is moved and watered separately. Every.Single.Day ... whether I'm tired, down with a bug, out late, have a sick pet, family member in the hospital, buddy in a jam. With the potted orchids, I can close the shades, turn off the lights, and leave them for at least 7 days, if need be. I started resenting the mounties. One of the old hands who used to post here said no orchid had to be mounted. Dunno if they were excluding the Ghost, but I've unmounted almost all the mounties now, including the Haraella, Aerangis fastuosa, Aerangis biloba, Dendrobium ceraula, Dinema polybulbon, Encyclia bracteata, Leptotes bicolor, Ornithocephalus bicornis, Phal. lowii, and Phal. parishii. Others, the grower unmounted and potted before I brought them home. Almost all the Sedireas I've seen were potted. As many mounties as possible have gone into sphag & plastic because they dry more slowly; 2nd preference is bark w/ sphag; last is straight bark. The plants in straight bark have to be watered every other day. It's a relief to be free of the every-day-or-else demands. It's been a month since the Haraella went from mounted to potted in sphag. It could be too soon to know if it'll be okay, but it didn't lose either of the 2 flowers, and buds on all 3 spikes are still developing. You'll figure out what works for you - the orchids will teach you. :) Whitecat8

1) they need vitamin S - Shade until they get established. you can't expect any transplanted plants to perform without problems in full sun immediately after being transplanted. They need some shade for a while until they're established. 2) I don't know who recommended lantanas for hanging pots, but from what I know, lantanas belong in the ground, and hanging pots belong somewhere up north. How big are these pots? and how do you plan to keep them watered in the summer when they dry out super fast? Lantanas are super tough plants, especially when they're planted in the ground, because they develop an extensive root system that goes deep and all over the place which is why they are drought resistant. In a pot, those roots have nowhere to go.

I have soaked cuttings for more than 12 hours but more than that would be trouble. Really only very stressed and dessicated cuttings need such treatment. Water is H2O, an oxygen molicule with a pair of Hydrogen molecules, one positioned off to each side. Plants don't starve for oxygen while under water although if their tissues are not made to endure such conditions they can certianly rot. Shallow non moving warm water can be very low in available oxygen but an air pump can fix that easily. I think the best method to root involves a moist substrate which can be organic or inorganic in nature, soil, peat, perlite or hydrotron for example. The next most important or perhaps the most important factor to get a nice fast rooting response in delicate or fussy cuttings is high humidty. Many commercial setups use a misting system where plant cuttings are placed in plugs or on moss and automatucally misted every minute for a few seconds. Using a sealed bag or rooting chamber is much easier and it really works well, heat speeds up all plant processes so hot and humid is what you want. The use of an aquarium air stone and pump is often called deep water rooting and there are cloning setups available althogh you can make one very easily using hydroponic net pots, a bucket and a lid, rockwool and and aquarium air pump and air stone. GG you are growing Hoyas right? LOL Mike