I have to agree that the bark in the pictures does not look right. First thing I notice is that there is literally NO fines in it. The mix depends on using pine bark fines, not just pine bark. I'm not going to defend any mix, because this is my first year using the 5-1-1, and although it is working good for me, it hasn't been without hard work and some complaints. I have had some watering issues with the hydrophobic pine bark. I can say though, that my pine bark is fines, and I CAN pour water in the pot, and it sits there for a bit. But, I can agree that the water seems to flow right through, and leave dry sections in the center of the pot. It takes a bit of screwing around, but all in all, the mix works. I won't be using it for veggies anymore, because next year I'll be firing up a regular veggie garden. So, final word from me: Due to what looks to be the wrong pine bark, and the wrong lime being used, this experiment is scrapped, and shouldn't be associated with the 5-1-1 mix. Joe

1) I don't think you need 2 mixes. I grow all my houseplants, succulents/cacti, and the woody material I'm growing on for bonsai in a very porous & gritty soil (the gritty mix), and it works very well - better than anything I've ever used, and I've used a LOT of different soils. I would crush the brick finer and use 2-4 mm pieces 5 parts 2-4 mm brick 1 part marble 1 part well-rinsed coco fiber If you really think you need a second soil, try 5 parts well-rinsed coco fiber 2 parts 2-4 mm brick 1 part marble If you have the means to crush the marble to half the size it is (2-4 mm), it would be an advantage. When you adopt this/these soil(s), we need to discuss what's available to you for fertilizer & work out a nutrition supplementation program, too. 2) No need to be concerned with sterility of your soil components, but it would be helpful to rinse off the dust so it doesn't migrate to the bottom of the pot & slow drainage. Be sure to discard the mineral fines (smaller than 2 mm) or use elsewhere. Al

Well, its been several months since I posted... and I just want to thank everyone for their wonderful advice. Viola is budding! :D I put her under a grow light as suggested, and she loves it. All of the pots I had were too big, so I ended up having to put her in a 2 inch yogurt cup. She loves that too! As for watering/fertilizing, I've only been using the compost tea that I use for my indoor herbs. She seems to like it as well.

re-reading, especially Karen & Bill (not that I don't appreciate everyone else--the bottle method really sounds interesting): I've gotten a little more courage reading Bill's final entry and understand much more clearly: essentially, plant what I have, 4" deep, in mostly perlite, water once, give heat & light. But Bill, Karen, anyone, do you think I'd actually be okay, cutting off a branch and make two cuttings? My 1st experience trying to grow a p. was with a Hawaiian Yellow (or was it Gold?). It was a disaster. I was told to try water rooting. Never rooting a Plumeria before, I do what I'm told. --usually when I water-root, anthing, I see roots within a few days or at the most a couple of weeks. And I keep clean water in the container. But this cutting sat & sat and did nothing. After a couple of months, there still was nothing. Since it didn't root, I was advised to take it out of the water; cut off the bottom to check for rot (the color inside was a beautiful white, so ok); soak it in hydrogen peroxide for a couple of hours, let dry overnight, dip the cut into a very dilute solution of bleach/water for good measure, then into rooting hormone and pot up in a sterile mix, setting the base 4" deep, watering once. I did all that. Poured a cup of water + superthrive around the stem, sat the container on a heating pad, and gave plenty of fluorescent light: both going 24/7. Within a few days, it leafed out. Since it couldn't have put out roots in a couple of days, I began misting the leaves on a daily basis, with tepid, tap-water. However, within two weeks the cutting went mushy. I checked; and, the entire inside was black. I suppose, even though I thought everything was sterile and the Hydrogen peroxide killed all germs, the cutting was attacked by some kind of fungus or mold, that must be in my house. If I divide this cutting, how do I keep the demise from happening to each of the new cuttings? (I do have some agricultural sulfur; also a copper, fungicide--as well as bleach and H2O4.) How long do I wait, for the wounds to heal before potting either cutting? Now, for my really, dumb (non-knowing about Plumeria neewbie) question: When growing flowers, usually the center is pinched out, so it will make more branches and more flowers. Making two cuttings out of this one, seems to be doing the opposite: fewer branches, fewer flowers. Thus, a branched plumeria will have more flowers and be more sought after. Why, then, is a single stemmed plumeria, preferable to one that is branched? Bob