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Container Gardening

Question for Al/Tapla ONLY please!....

15 years ago

I have read the (very long yet very interesting) threads on your mix. I have started using the "gritty" mix for houseplants. However, I have one question - I have a vermicomposting operation and produce a good bit of vermicompost. How would I go about using THAT in a mix? Any suggestions?

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Comments (9)

gringojay
15 years ago
Hi leearnold,
Please see recent post "Why Al not posting" & join us sending request to moderators to let Tapla resume posting here.
justaguy2
15 years ago
Did you not like my reply?

Vermicompost is great stuff, but as you know, the instant it gets wet it has the consistency of clay muck. This isn't going to do container drainage any favors. If you wish to use it then simply keep it at 10% or less of the mix and it shouldn't cause any drainage problems.

Somebody, I think it was Mary Applehoff (of Worms Eat My Garbage fame) who tested VC in containers and found that after 10 (maybe it was 15) percent of container volume results diminished.

The simple answer is don't use much of it as it will clog drainage.

Feel free to wait for Al's ban to be removed so he can say the same thing. Science is science.
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Polarity is a quality or condition inherent in cuttings that causes them to exhibit different properties in different parts. Stem cuttings show strongest (sometimes 'only' in some species) rooting from the proximal end, and most aggressive shoot growth from the distal end, while root cuttings (many plants are propagated this way) produce strongest roots from the distal end and shoots from the proximal end. Changing the position of the shoots (inverted) does not alter this tendency. When you take a cutting you disturb the organism's physiological unity, and some substance (widely thought to be the growth regulator, auxin) is redistributed and thus accounts for the differentiation in growth responses. I have seen grape and currant cuttings purposely planted upside down and left to grow. In the grape, the roots almost all formed at the proximal end and grew down, while the shoot formed at the distal end and grew up through the roots to finally emerge. I can see major problems down the road with this scenario. The parts above the soil died. In the currant cuttings, the roots formed along the length of the cutting that was in the soil. Shoots emerged above the soil and grew downward briefly before they responded to gravitropism & reversed their growth to upward. These shoots stopped developing after a short while and a new shoot formed at the soil line that grew upward in a normal fashion. The shoot with reverse polarity died as the properly oriented shoot started to grow in earnest. What would I do? I would reverse the cuttings so they are oriented with the proper polarity and hope the buds are still viable. Al
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My solution to pine bark fines for Al's (Tapla) 5-1-1 mix
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Great post. I tried this method this past weekend. Relative to the lawn mower method of chopping up large pine bark chunks, I found this method to be cleaner (it doesn't shoot pine chunks out the sides like a mower will), a bit slower than the mower, and produced a lot more fine particles. I have a high speed Toro leaf blower/mulcher with a metal impeller. A large percentage of the particles coming out felt like fine compost, and a large number of chunks went through looking unscathed, so I didn't get the mix of particle sizes that I was hoping for. I suppose if I had a 1/8" screen, I could have sifted out some of the fine stuff. As it was, I got about 3 gallons of material, and made a side batch of 5-1-1 to try with some peppers, but I didn't mix it in with the rest of my 5-1-1.
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nomen, use your judgement regarding how to grow your plants under your conditions and lifestyle. What works for one person doesn't mean it works for another. I get in trouble on this forum when I suggest other methods of potting outdoor plants, especially large container plants. There are other suggestions which include bark which holds some moisture longer than pure gritty mix. Large containers are a challenge because they take a lot of water. Someone growing small plants and plants which do not like to watered often (succulents) are easier to deal with outside. I live in Florida, my large container plants dry out quickly as we have little rain and intense heat. I do use a potting mix which holds moisture longer so I don't have to deal with watering constantly. I use rain barrels and do have to fill large buckets and watering cans to carry to the plants. I do not use our tap water. It has damaged some of my plants and I only use rain water. Florida water is terrible. One thing I use is a time release fertilizer on my large plants. It works. That is something you might consider so you don't have to mix fertilizer. If your tap water is good, you can hose your plants down and they get fed with each watering. I feel large container plants need to looked at in a different way from small, little plants. You have to do what works for yourself and your plants. My suggestion would be to try adding some moisture retaining material to your potting mix so your plants can wait a week or longer. I know I will get criticized for telling you that but it is what I do and it works for me. You need to figure out what works best for you. I understand where you are coming from. I'm a 67 yr old woman who doesn't do well trying to lug 5 gallon containers of water around the year in blistering heat. But I found what works for me. That's what its all about. Trying to find a balance which works for your lifestyle without feeling guilty. Your plants will let you know if they are happy and if they look sad, you'll adjust things. As far as pruning, not so much help from me. Al is the expert. Only bonsai growers really understand the science of proper pruning. As for me, I prune both roots and branches in spring. Unless the plant is in bad shape, I do not do a lot of root pruning, only green pruning. I do not watch the calendar, I watch the plant and its growth. Spring is when I do all my pruning. I've never had a problem. Again, use your judgement. Good luck, Jane
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It depends on what the question is. I'm not overly familiar with roses in particular, but if the question isn't really specific to roses, there's a good chance I might be able to contribute something helpful. An example would be - how do I root prune a dogwood in a pot. Even though I never grew a dogwood in a pot, I can still tell/show someone how it's done. You needn't be the bus driver to know what makes the wheels go round & round. ;-) Hi back to Sis for me, please. Al
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meyermike_1micha
15 years ago
Why would you use vermicompost in your containers when mines are doing great without that stuff finally. Have you not read the posts on this stuff and what it has done to many? Have you taken the time to view my pics of my citrus?

I killed most plants in the past, plus citrus do to adding vermicompost into my containers. Just believe me, I did and it doesn't work for long..;-)

In fact, you can have my 5 gallon bucket for free just for the cost of shipping, or come to think of it, I will probably through it in the garden where it belongs...
Hoping it works for you if you still choose to use it..:-)
leearnold
Original Author
15 years ago
No, it's not that I didn't like your answer - It's that I don't know you. Having read Al's posts on his mixes, and having tried them, and having seen them work, I knew I could trust his answer. I'm sorry to find out that he is no longer here.
justaguy2
15 years ago
Well, we are trying to get him back, so be patient. The entire problem with worm poop is it's small particle size.

As long as you keep it to a small percentage of the total mix (assuming the mix is coarse to begin with) you shouldn't have any problems. Use too much and the mix turns to muck. 10-15% should do you fine and Al has said so himself.
tomncath
15 years ago
No, it's not that I didn't like your answer - It's that I don't know you.

Well, get to know him. Al and JAG are the cornerstones for the foundation of this forum....
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
15 years ago
I just don't find it necessary in containers and avoid it - sorry. I think that the trade-off, what you get for what you sacrifice - some micro-nutrients and an insignificant amount of macros in trade for a decrease in drainage/aeration really isn't worth it. I would (I do) leave it out & use a liquid or soluble granular micro-nutrient supplement in its stead.

Al
tomncath
15 years ago
So NICE to see the above responder respond! Life is good :-)
rj_hythloday
15 years ago
In response to the OP, so as not to create drainage issues, have you considered making and using an AVCT?

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