My solution to pine bark fines for Al's (Tapla) 5-1-1 mix
Robert
9 years ago
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Robert
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Tapla's 5-1-1 Container Mix in More Detail
Comments (450)@dleverette When making 5:1:1 mix, I break-up the compressed chunks of peat so they pass through a 1/2" screen. I toss any sticks and such on top of the raised beds where they break down with time. Here's a tip you'll find very helpful. For large batches of 5:1:1, pour the bark onto a tarp laid on a flat surface, then wet the bark a bit. Then, add the screened peat and spread it over the bark. Add your lime on top of the peat, then put down the perlite and wet that. The trick is to use just enough water to make the mix damp when it's thoroughly mixed. Both peat and pine bark are hydrophobic (water repellent) when allowed to dry below about 20% of their water holding ability. This makes a dry 5:1:1 mix extremely difficult to rewet if you don't moisten it when you make it. The moisture in the mix diffuses, moistening the bark/ peat and "breaking" its tendency to repel water. Within 15-30 minutes of making the mix you can pot plants and water them in thoroughly w/o the frustration associated with trying to rehydrate a dry soil. FWIW, I don't use coir. As many times as I've tried it and cone comparative experiments, I've always had problems or been dissatisfied with the results. You might be interested in a comparison between peat and coir I wrote several years back: Peat vs. Coir Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir as the primary component of container media virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a possible Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. Several studies have also shown that the significant presence of phenolic allelochemicals in fresh coir can be very problematic for a high % of plants, causing poor growth and reduced yields. I haven't tested coir thoroughly, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited < 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. YMMV Coir Study: https://sites.google.com/site/plantandsoildigest/usu-crop-physiology-laboratory/coconut-coir-studies Al...See MoreDo you screen out fines from pine bark mulch for 5-1-1?
Comments (7)I will tell you my experience with 5-1-1 mix, which I changed for a 6-1 mix (I will explain it). Until one year now, I used a commercial mix of compost and peat for citrus containers, with very good results in the short term (several months), but with further problems due to organic matter decomposition with lake of air and and the resulting problems. Then, I decided to move to 5-1-1 mix, but it is difficult to find pine bark of 3/8" size. Repti bark and Orchid mixes are very expensive. I buy 1 inch size bark mulch in 6 gallon bags at a very good price. Later, using a pruning woods chopper, I triturate the bark mulches and screen out pieces bigger than 3/8" size. What I get is a family of bark particles from fines to 3/8" size. I tested by myself several mixes in a container of 25 Oz volume and 6 inch high and I got the following results: 5-1-1 mix (chopped and 3/8" screened bark+perlite+peat): Total pore volume: 300 ml Aeration pore volume: 130 ml Total porosity: 40 % Aeration porosity: 17.3 % Water-holding porosity: 22.7 % 6-1 mix (chopped and 3/8" screened bark+perlite): Total pore volume: 400 ml Aeration pore volume: 250 ml Total porosity: 53.3 % Aeration porosity: 33.3 % Water-holding porosity: 20 % As you can see, I got better results, by far, from 6-1 mix, without peat. I decided to try without peat, following a Josh (Greenman28) advice in an old post. He said that sometimes he didn't use peat in 5-1-1 mix with good results. Peat decomposes faster than bark, and you know that decomposed particles penalises aeration. Well, after one year of use of 6-1 mix, I bare rooted the past week a healthy Tango mandarin grafted on Poncirus trifoliata in a 12 gal container, for planting in ground, and I can tell you that the mix was in a very similar condition to the original, and I don't remember so well developed and healthy roots in a container citrus plant. I am very satisfied with this mix. Just one additional care with it, you have to monitor more closely the fertilization, because minerals leach out easier than in a traditional peat mix. In any case, it remains for an acceptable time. And, coming back to your question, I don't remove fines. If you removed fines, in my opinion, it would be imperative to use peat....See MoreWhere can I find pine bark fines for 5:1:1 mix?
Comments (29)The main issue I see with raw pine bark is that it is pretty hydrophobic because of the high lignin content. Aged pine bark has much less of this problem since some of that lignin would have decomposed. Last year I filled a 55 gallon drum with the raw bark with a handful of high nitrogen fertilizer and left it outside. I have not used it yet but looks nicely aged - that is uniformly black instead of brown. Nitrogen binding (and decomposition) is a very slow process and requires proper microbes to be present. In containers with chemical fertilizer it is less of an issue. The fertilizer is immediately available to plants and is mostly consumed in a short period. Aged bark not only holds water better but also releases the fertilizer better. Peat does the same even better than bark but is much too fine to be used as the main ingredient....See MoreBark fines particle size in Al's 5-1-1 mix
Comments (11)My PBF (Agway Pine Bark Mulch) has very little dust, and is prescreened to 3/8, so I generally use it straight from the bag without screening for 5-1-1. I only sift (to 1/8" to 1/4") for gritty mix. If I use partially composted pine bark (like your pile) I omit some or all of the peat, depending how much fine particles are in the mix. I suggest making a small batch (a gallon or so) of 5-1-1 "by the book". Sift and measure everything precisely so you know what 5-1-1 should look like. Perhaps sift the first few years. Once you get used to what it should look like you can mix by eye and adjust on the fly for different plants preferences....See MoreRobert
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