Feed back : Back breaking chores being done easier. Carry the empty buckets to the areas that you want to water and bring the hose to the buckets for filling, you can also place a boulder inside them to help hold them in place and for rain assisted refills. You can also consider timer set irrigation systems.

In a busy enough plants in a pot cultivating area here I favor the idea of..... The best place to grow a rose is in the earth then plant it in the ground.( PIG) I can also say the same for a Japanese maple but you might already be t cultivating it to become a bonsai.

All work including hobby plant stuff is done best (and is a lot easier to do) if one thinks smarter not harder.

My climbing roses are in the ground; some of my JMs are in pots, others not. My watering/fertilizing questions were poorly worded. I have at least 75 container plants spread out in a fair sized yard. It's still very time consuming to carry a five-gallon bucket and fertilizer. It's a hobby, but if I watered like that all the time, I would still be outside. Some of my planters are VERY large. Are you suggesting I water everything and then apply.a light fertilizer afterwards or are you being a smart ass? Obviously, if I thought smarter, I wouldn't be asking the question. If everyone on this site were to think smartly, they wouldn't be discussing gritty mix 1,000 plus times!

' If everyone on this site were to think smartly, they wouldn't be discussing gritty mix 1,000 plus times!'

Simply because people discuss theories/applications and have questions, is no reflection on their intelligence. In fact, scientists question everything, all the time. Tapla questioned the then prevailing way to grow container plants and came up with better theories/explanations/proposals and those who learn from him arrive with different experiences and knowledge base, so they discuss and question.

No one is born knowing how to care for container plants, or fertilize roses (btw there is a great rose forum on this site).

Asked: Are you suggesting I water everything and then apply a light fertilizer afterwards or are you being a smart ass?

If you say so then yes I guess I am a smart ass (in a way) As such ( being the smart as that I am) there is no chance I'd be caring filled five gallon buckets to a plant if there where an easier way. For the better part after established every distant container here will only get what water falls on them from the sky. For those that need that occasional drink there is nothing wrong with dragging out a hose.

What I am suggesting is you move forward with your hobby while finding easier ways to water your distant ( and sometimes to heavy) containers planters because there are many ways to irrigate them including in ground and or portable irrigation systems.

After all ( your right) plants do need water . How you choose to fertilize them is totally up to you but some folks use a liquid fertilzer and water fert at the same. ( Read and understand the label(s) please)

There are also many internet sites, garden center classes, and plant type groups that can also assist you with ideas covering the how to's, when's where's, and whys for pruning.

Pruning basics and ideas for pruning results are also covered though out the forum Researching several sources you can collect more information from several ideas than one idea from a single persons reading that would be worded, re worded and counter worded with other opinions as well.

Sorry nomen_nudum - I was crabby last night and thought you were trying to make fun of my questions. With Al's mixes, he stated that he fertilizes every time he waters, right? My question was how to make it a less time consuming task. At this point, I'm too old and crabby to carry five gallon buckets. Regardless, mixing the ingredients and dumping them on plants takes a lot of time. If I re-plant into gritty mix, approximately how often will I have to water in 90-100 degree weather?

It's been a real PIA to find gritty mix ingredients. I've been reading all the related forums (screen size, ratios, etc.). After checking with several feed stores, I was told that crushed granite (Gran-I-grit) is rarely used anymore - it has been replaced with oyster shells or limestone mix. I went ahead and ordered Manna Pro. I also found that Petsmart carries it. I took a look at it and the "coarse" crushed granite sure looked small (certainly less than 1/4-3/8" - maybe it's not grower size.). I also ordered the substitute Floor Dry. So frustrated! Please advise this cranky lady as I'm going in circles when I should be fertilizing.

In regards to my asking Al to review plant growth/pruning - he explains things really well. I can easily follow his notes and they make complete sense. I've read several articles on pruning. Some are down right confusing. Maybe I don't belong on this forum. I just really like Al's stuff. Thanks

Asked:If I re-plant into gritty mix, approximately how often will I have to water in 90-100 degree weather?

Depending on the water retention of the soil. size of the container, type of plant ect.. Some state they may need to water more often than they had initially anticipated when using Al's gritty mix.

Example I have a few 3/4-1 inch succulent pot that gets watered once every second week if the temps you mentioned are every day I also have a few sixteen inch pots that get watered more often that I would have thought during the same climate & temperature ranges and some smaller than 16 inches that get watered daily.

Fertilizing and watering at the same time as watering is a different subject For me it ranges from plant to plant , once a week to once a month depending on the actual growing conditions of the particular plant. I tend to use a lesser dose when using fertilizers than the labeled suggestions the generic reason it's better to under feed than it is to over feed.

I understand the initial PIA it can be for some when finding gritty mix ingredients many modifications have been devised and are used deriving from gritty mix as some claim to have just as good results with a modified version of basic gritty mix.

Basically, what happens is, as the gritty mix recipe rules vary from one user to another the principles still remain the same. ( repeating with a different set of words) Moving and retaining of moisture in a container can be done in many ways ( Again in different words) Moving and retaining moisture has many rules as the laws of nature will still be followed. Moving and retaining moisture can and is done with several items that do and don't originate( in Al's subject) basic gritty mix regarding 1-1-1 or 3-1-1 & 5-1-1.

Example: I use pumice and not ever used oyster shells in several containers, I also use granite chips but not turface ( or Napa dry products) in the same pots. I get the same blue ribbon results as anyone who does use turface and oyster shells.

I'm sure some folks have the same ease as they read from Al as well but a saw being used to prune is still a saw that one can use to prune no matter who types it out.

You asked, how to prune ? Use a saw or a hand pruner or any one or more of a wide range of tools can be used . I'm not sure why some folks become un eased reading tools are needed to prune from someone who isn't Al

Irrigation chores are best solved with an irrigation system. It can be as simple as some 1/2" black poly tubing with some drippers that you hook the hose up to once a week to an automated system with solenoid valves and a digital controller. Also, PVC piping is very inexpensive, easy to work with, and is easily covered with mulch.

Pamela - I calculated the amount of liquid fertilizer required to be added to each of my watering containers. Then I use a graduated syringe (they are cheap and come in small and large sizes) to dispense that amount and use a hose to fill with water/mix the solution. Saves me a lot of effort.

Other options:

• Garden fertilizer sprayers are inconsistent, so that's not a great idea.

• Fertilizing less often has its own compromises as do controlled release fertilizers.

• Increasing the CEC of your soil by different soil components is another way, which also has some caveats.

No free lunch. =)

nomen, use your judgement regarding how to grow your plants under your conditions and lifestyle. What works for one person doesn't mean it works for another.

I get in trouble on this forum when I suggest other methods of potting outdoor plants, especially large container plants. There are other suggestions which include bark which holds some moisture longer than pure gritty mix.

Large containers are a challenge because they take a lot of water. Someone growing small plants and plants which do not like to watered often (succulents) are easier to deal with outside.

I live in Florida, my large container plants dry out quickly as we have little rain and intense heat. I do use a potting mix which holds moisture longer so I don't have to deal with watering constantly.

I use rain barrels and do have to fill large buckets and watering cans to carry to the plants. I do not use our tap water. It has damaged some of my plants and I only use rain water. Florida water is terrible.

One thing I use is a time release fertilizer on my large plants. It works. That is something you might consider so you don't have to mix fertilizer. If your tap water is good, you can hose your plants down and they get fed with each watering.

I feel large container plants need to looked at in a different way from small, little plants. You have to do what works for yourself and your plants.

My suggestion would be to try adding some moisture retaining material to your potting mix so your plants can wait a week or longer. I know I will get criticized for telling you that but it is what I do and it works for me. You need to figure out what works best for you.

I understand where you are coming from. I'm a 67 yr old woman who doesn't do well trying to lug 5 gallon containers of water around the year in blistering heat. But I found what works for me.

That's what its all about. Trying to find a balance which works for your lifestyle without feeling guilty. Your plants will let you know if they are happy and if they look sad, you'll adjust things.

As far as pruning, not so much help from me. Al is the expert. Only bonsai growers really understand the science of proper pruning.

As for me, I prune both roots and branches in spring. Unless the plant is in bad shape, I do not do a lot of root pruning, only green pruning. I do not watch the calendar, I watch the plant and its growth. Spring is when I do all my pruning. I've never had a problem. Again, use your judgement.

Good luck,

Jane

Thanks for the pointer Jane the wording intended to me is just you preaching to the quire ( I really don't need to hear it) Although I think you express what the OP might be trying to say when they mention there missing something.

Different strokes for different folks My method to successful container cultivation is to develop a good understanding of the plants that I have What I discovered is plants( them selves) know what there doing as we are only here to help.

So true.

jane

You have little rain in Florida? You get more rain in one month than we have had in the last 2 years.

While maybe not the "best" all purpose fertilizer, I'd look into one of the controlled release ferts mentioned above - something like Osmocote, Dynamite or Sta-Green. These have been coated with a substance that breaks down gradually over an extended period of time with heat and water to slowly release required nutrients. So you only need to apply once or twice a season (depending on the specific product). These just get sprinkled on the soil surface so no need to lug heavy watering cans around to apply the fert...........although you will need to examine how you address the means of irrigation so that it is easiest accomplished for your specific situation.

As to a recitation both of a) how plants grow, and b) how to prune, that is almost an endless topic, as it will vary - often extremely widely - depending on the type of plant. As generous as Al is with both his time and advice here, I doubt he or anyone else has the time or intent to put together a treatise that would accurately and thoroughly address these issues. You would be better off asking for this type of advice in one of the plant specific forums - both the Maples and the various Rose growing forums are quite active. I'd start there.

As someone who grows almost entirely in containers, I can sympathize that they can be a great deal of work to maintain, especially if you manage them in quantity (which I do). And the job doesn't get any easier as you age :-)) So it may be a matter of making some gardening lifestyle changes.........maybe reduce the number of containers and increase the inground plantings. Or group the contains together to create little vignettes that will simplify care (can water or tend them more easily if clustered) rather than spread them out over a wide area. And I would also investigate streamlining your watering practices by using a drip system. They are inexpensive, easy for a rookie to put together and can be controlled by a timer to make life even simpler.

"Only bonsai growers really understand the science of proper pruning."

I would strongly disagree with this statement. Bonsai care and pruning requirements have minimal applications to growing full sized plants and the pruning methods use with bonsai do not necessarily apply at all to full sized plants, in containers or in the ground. Most experienced and skilled gardeners - even those who have never grown a bonsai in their life - know how and when to prune properly for the plant in question.