It depends on what materials you are going to use to replace the block wall. If you use wood or rock, not grouted, also use dead men if the wall is over 3 feet, no drain pipe is necessary. Generally if you could make it three steps you'll be better off, because strangers visiting will find 2 steps odd and may fall. A person when climbing steps always leads with one foot and always lands on the other. Human nature. I always used wood because it is easier to calculate when bidding and it's easier to make steps which are more stable.

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

I should have been more specific. The wall will be max of 32" high and I will be a using modular block system, so I want something that will look like it will match it.

As far as the steps, the bottom is where the garage is would be the ground step, and then literally, you have one full step and then you are in the yard. So if you were standing still at the bottom, you would move you right leg, then left leg and then you are in the yard. It is not much of a rise.

I could do a three step, with a longer run...

Make the steps out of modular block?

I was thinking that. But what about the actual steps, do I fill the inside with stone and then mortar the flat part of the step?

Steps generally are 8" risers and 6" treads. Flagstone wouldn't look that bad with modular although I have never used them myself, I just thought it was one more way for concrete manufactures to get more money out of consumers since their products are not natural looking which is what consumers I've worked with wanted. Have you compared modular to wood, like ties?

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

"Steps generally are 8" risers and 6" treads"

Might want to rethnk that.

Wood steps are most often 7" riser with an 11" tread. It has to do with lumber sizes that make up the tread.

The rise to run formula is most often accepted as (2xriser+tread=25"). Sometimes you see that ranging from 24" to 27". This has to do with the way people walk. When you get out of that range people tend to stumble on steps. When you have only two risers, this is less important as a rythem is not established.

It is pretty easy to do modular block steps. The first think you have to watch out for is that you need to select a block that either allows a nicely finished 90 degree outside corner or that your design is going to work with the turning radius of the wall block to set your cheek wall on the steps. If you don't, you'll be cutting up block in odd ways and having a very DIYer look.

Another thing is that a lot of block products have rounded faces rater than flat ones. That is very forgiving when building a wall, but causes problems as a stair riser because you wind up with either an uneven edge to the step or pockets that can catch a toe if you finish by using a tread stone over the block.

Also, if you use a tread stone over the block, remember that you walking surface will be that much higher when you plan your wall. Let's ay you put a 1.5" tread stock bluestone on top of the block riser. You will have to account for that by sinking your bottom block 1.5" below the surface that you will be stepping up from or the bottom stair will be 1.5" taller than the rest. Be aware of that on the top as well if you are trying to meet an existing walkway. It is also important to think about how the rest of the wall will be capped so as not to have the tops step's tread sitting higher than the cheek walls.

I have to go, but I can tell you more about building the actual steps when I get a chance.

laag,

These are all great points. I will keep all in mind when I get ready to build. Especially the flat faced blocks. I would also like to see what else you have to say about the steps when you have the time.

Thanks!

GG07

It is efficient in terms of construction to integrate the steps with the wall - meaning to make them of the same material. That commits you to dealing with the peculiarities of that certain block.

That means that the height of the block will be the height of your riser. It means that you have to deal with the batter (each course of block sets back a certain distance from the face of wall compared to the course below it) and account for it when planning.

If you use a cheek wall to the sides of the steps (which is very clean and space efficient), you will need to know that the block manufacturer has an outside corner block that is finished on two sides in order to do this, or that the block can turn a quick enough radius to be able to build your steps close to the face of the wall to meet your needs.

The length of the block will also influence whether you will need to cut blocks in order to have a safe, or at least comfortable, set of steps. That is because if you use a block that is 18" long, it means that you will need to either cut blocks, or commit to either a 9" or 27" tread. The cutting would be to match your chhek wall to the face of the riser in order to tuck your risers into the face of the cheek wall rather than fitting them between the cheek walls. This keeps the steps from creeping and deals with the batter on the cheek wall. If you place the risers in between the cheek walls, there will be a gap on the ends as you go up. Because you only have two treads, this is less of a concern than if you had several steps. Some wallblocks come in more than one block length to add variety to the look of the wall. That also gives you more combinations to acheive a tread length without cutting blocks in your cheek walls

It is also nice to have a block that has a lot of depth from front to back because it gives you a greater surface to set a tread stone on (and glue them to) with less fear of settling.

I have to go.

That was a very interesting description of SRW step construction to minimize block cutting. Most of the good looking steps that I have seen in my area with the block available here has required a lot of cutting. No big thing for a contractor with the right equipment, but it gets the DIY folks in trouble.

When I get asked by a local friend about a DIY wall with SRW block, the mention of steps is when I suggest they look at a different wall type.

Every wall type has it's advantages. SRW construction has elements that favor a contractor and are often overlooked by a DIY'er. The lack of need for a footer and the simplicity of stacking blocks has sucked more than a few homeowners into a nightmare.

In my opinion, a wall up to 50ft long, straight, with uniform height, with a flat top and not steped, not over 3ft high, is doable by a homeowner as a SRW.

Here are some things I think a homeowner should consider before he starts.

SRW requires an adequate base of compacted select fill. Be careful you know the quantity that will be needed. In my area, select fill can be had at the producer for 9 to $10.50 a cubic yard. Cheap for the contractor with a tax number and a truck. The homeowner buys from a retailer for triple the cost plus a delivery fee.

Where will this material be dumped? Figure 5 yards to be about 12,000 lb. The contractor will move it to the wall location with a small piece of heavy equipment, and you have what? A wheelbarrow?

You do know that you have to dig deep enough for the base and the first course of block, right? And don't skimp on the base width either! Sometimes there will be a spot where the ground has a soft spot, maybe due to a low area filled with topsoil when the lot was graded. The contractor will notice this and overdig the area to firm soil and backfill with base material.

To get the base graded to perfection you need the right equipment and the knowledge to use it. The contractor will have an expensive laser or auto level to control the grade.

And the base must be compacted. In this regard I know of no substitute for a plate compactor. You will need this equipment at all phases of the project and rental is expensive. You might better plan on buying one and selling after the project is completed.

The precision needed in the base grading and the laying of the first course of block cannot be overstated. Homeowners should use a guide board along the front of the base that is secure and adjustable to one sixteenth of an inch.

Good SRW doesn't use that lightweight block that will do a raised flower bed. Common block weights are 60 to 80 lb. Delivered on pallets where? I hope you like your wheelbarrow. And back surgery doesn't come cheap.

There is real skill in screeding the thin layer of sand over the base to set the block on. As a beginner count on placing every block about five times to get it right. A good sweat and an aching back convince most homeowners it's "good enough". And the finished wall will scream homebuilt.

The cap blocks give the wall a neat finished look. A contractor will have the equipment to both break and cut the block to achieve this. The homeowner has more expensive rental cost.

Adding the detailed planning and custom work to incorporate steps is the straw that breaks the camel's back.

And don't think you can call in a contractor to finish the job. He likely won't accept your work and you will pay him to remove what you did, including the base, to start from scratch.