The more pertinent question is the state of your rough grade compared to what the desired final grade needs/wants to be. If it entails bringing in topsoil to raise the final grade, or leveling to slope away from the house for proper drainage, you'll want to do the necessary changes within the intended planter areas before you plant. On the other hand, if drainage is already okay as is, and any plantings you do now are only temporary or can be easily moved; there may be no need to wait. Were you also intending to put down a temporary walk as well? If so, crushed rock or gravel over weed fabric,perhaps with precast concrete pavers 2 foot square might do decent temporary duty at little expense. To get more specific advice based on your actual conditions, you could also contact a landscape contractor or designer and have them consult for a couple of hours and give you more accurate site specific advice. Sorry to hear your move-in hasn't started off smoothly, good luckily with getting a temporary start on a new garden going. You might even consider seeding some green manure type plants in the beds to increase soil fertility and humus content that could be rototilled under in the fall, along with local wildflowers. Alfalfa or clover seeded over future lawn area and plowed under later would also be beneficial to build up the soil.

CAUTION WILL ROBINSON ... you bought a house.. in very late fall ... perhaps weeks before ground freeze ... and have come to conclusions about your soil ... i am sorry ... i think you MIGHT be making presumptions ... and on some level.. i am wondering about all this advice from southern folks who may have never dealt with frozen soil ..... fill holes ... a little at a time ... letting the grass extend thru it ... dont bury it too deep ... perhaps an inch.. once a month ... and just take next summer.. to really find out.. how it all works .... skipping spring grass growing time ... and avoiding summer.. which is not a great time for working grass for many but the professionals ... the next great grass season is early next fall ... around sept of so ... if you find out.. its all screwed up ... you can rent a sod cutter.. remove and bundle it all ... regrade ... and lay the grass back down afterwords ... or perhaps by then.. and being such a small area.. buy new sod ... there is nothing inherently bad about clay .... other than the drainage issue ... when properly tended.. it is one of the better soils ... as compared to my glacial sand lets say ... my grass browns out for most of the hot part of summer ... anyway ... since your lawn slopes away from the house ... i am not sure you have a drainage problem ... as most of us.. talk about such ... which only leaves you the holes to fill in ... [when one discusses this.. water is draining back towards the foundation .. and getting into the basement .. we arent usually talking about some puddles out in the grass ] dont make this a bigger job than it is.. based on no real understanding.. of how it might work in what amounts to winter ... gather your facts ... and go from there ... i think the soap idea/discussion is lightyears ahead of your knowledge base.. at this time ... we arent yet at that point .... and you may never be ... also.. you probably havent really met your neighbors... odds are ... they know all about you native soil ... and if you introduce yourself to the grass warrior with the best lawn on the block.... he can teach you or the hubster.. all you need to know.. about how it all works on your street ... some better pix will get you much better suggestions.. unless you are the only young newlyweds.. with no technology .... crikey.. that would be a throwback ... lol good luck ... marriage and grass .... ken Here is a link that might be useful: close enough. ... lol

I like steps/walkways to be 4', tho most sidewalks are 3'. You should get the grading done first. Al

Look at the total area, not just your yard, but the surrounding yards, fields, and roads. Determine the total natural slope. Using swales make sure the water is draining ot to those natural slopes from the wet areas. If you live in an addition where the lots have been extensively graded using the same technique determine the landscaper drainage system and make the water in the wet spots move toward the in those directions. Swales need not be deep. I find the best way to make them is first remove the turf from the area where you want the swale to be remove the exposed dirt until you have the depth need and levels for the swales. Then replace the turf. Use the excess dirt to raise other parts of the wet are to achieve the grade you want.