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Container Gardening

Green Peppers, Tomatoes, and possibly Carrots container needs

19 years ago

I'm looking to grow some vegetables in containers this summer as I'm going to be moving soon. I have already bought a green pepper seedling, and a tomatoe seedling. They have been planted in 1 gallon pots and placed outside.

I'm very new to growing anything and was wondering what I need to do for each one? Do either of them need special support like a stick or something? Also what size should their final pots be and when should I transfer them? I am also thinking about carrots. Can they be grown in a pot?

Any responses would be appreciated thanks!

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Comments (6)

BlindSeaman
Original Author
19 years ago
Oh, I planted green peppers and tomatoes in miracle-gro potting soil. I hope that was alright as it is what I had lying around.
PVick
19 years ago
Your tomatoes will need some kind of staking; I've found that even the so-called "patio tomatoes" get large enough to require staking. You can use bamboo stakes done teepee style, or just use those tomato cages. The final pot should be at least 5-gallon size for a tomato plant.

The peppers may or may not need to be staked; they're usually pretty sturdy upright growers, but putting a stake in the pot, just in case, certainly won't hurt. The final pot should be at least 3-gallon size for one pepper plant.

Of course, bigger is (always) better.

Miracle-Gro potting soil is just fine.
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You'll want to cover the dark containers with something that reflects heat, rather than absorbs heat as black does. Otherwise the absorbed heat will cook the plants' roots. Some people use white garbage bags or silver space blankets; I haven't ever done that, but have read that the garbage bags, at least, will disintegrate due to UV damage. 7 gallons is too small a container for an indeterminate like Cherokee Purple (yes, it can be done: but it's too small -- and you may need to water more than once a day; mulching the top of the pot will help somewhat with the water issue). Also, you will need some major-league -- and much taller -- support: yes, you can prune suckers, but the plants will still grow to 8-10' in height (maybe longer in your zone). Whatever support you use for a tall and/or heavy (all that fruit weight!) tomato vine needs to be anchored firmly outside the container. I don't grow peppers, but the small rings you have for the tomatoes are often mentioned as appropriate for peppers. (I use them for dwarf tomato varieties.)
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BER is suppossed to be due to lack of calcium and uneven watering.A formula to prevent tomato diseases that I read about and have used is worth a try. I know you have already planted your tomato but you could mix this into the top. 6 Tablespoons of powdered nonfat milk (for calcium) 4 Tablespoons of Epsom salts to boost growth and disease resistence (in the drug isle) 1 shovelful of compost (optional but good) After you did the hole when planting add 4 T of dry milk plus the Epson salts.Mix in compost.Add tomato and fill with soil. Mix in 2 T milk on top. You can add additional milk every 2 weeks to the top of the soil mixing carefully in. The green mold might be due to too much moisture. Did you have a drain hole drilled to allow for drainage? Is you plant near other moldy green objects?
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I have to agree that the bark in the pictures does not look right. First thing I notice is that there is literally NO fines in it. The mix depends on using pine bark fines, not just pine bark. I'm not going to defend any mix, because this is my first year using the 5-1-1, and although it is working good for me, it hasn't been without hard work and some complaints. I have had some watering issues with the hydrophobic pine bark. I can say though, that my pine bark is fines, and I CAN pour water in the pot, and it sits there for a bit. But, I can agree that the water seems to flow right through, and leave dry sections in the center of the pot. It takes a bit of screwing around, but all in all, the mix works. I won't be using it for veggies anymore, because next year I'll be firing up a regular veggie garden. So, final word from me: Due to what looks to be the wrong pine bark, and the wrong lime being used, this experiment is scrapped, and shouldn't be associated with the 5-1-1 mix. Joe
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jenny_in_se_pa
19 years ago
Agree PV. The recommendations for tomato and pepper heads on those respective forums has been about a minimum of about 3 gallon size container (~10" diameter) for peppers and minimum 5 gallon (~12") for tomatoes. Larger would be better, particularly if you go with indeterminant tomatoes that can grow to 7ft or bigger even in a container.

And yes, you can grow carrots in a container (I did it one year). Depending on what type of carrot you choose to grow, choose the container size accordingly. I have some Rubbermaid veggie containers (they don't make them anymore) that are like 15" x 15" x 12" deep that were perfect for carrots, but any type should work although you need to thin to allow room for the carrots to grow optimally.

Good luck with your wee farm! :-D
breezyb
19 years ago
Definitely get larger containers for your tomato & pepper. Twelve to 14" would be the minimum I'd suggest, & both plants should be staked for added stability - particularly when they start producing.

Like another poster said, container size - or rather depth - will depend on the variety. If you go for short varieties like "Little Finger" or round varieties like "Thumbelina", the container can be rather shallow. Standard varieties will need something deeper. That said, root crops like carrots & beets do well in containers, although you won't get much of a crop. Your best bet will be multiple sowings throughout the season.
jenny_in_se_pa
18 years ago
breezyb - Oh I got quite alot of crop with the carrots I tried a couple years ago. A bit too much because I didn't thin enough as I eventually discovered! LOL
breezyb
18 years ago
Lol - okay, let me correct that. The size of your crop will depend on the size of your container, but don't expect the same size crop as you'd get from garden beds or rows.

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