You are once again incorrect (this is getting rather embarrassing for you), Best do your homework. People often fertilize adding large amounts of nitrogen so much for your C:N ratio. Some is always lost to volatilization. I guess I should have said some instead of much. It always is a net loss, there I am correct. So please stop making false statements, and putting words into my mouth. You are hurting many users here with your extremely bad advice. I agree bark by itself losses little nitrogen (as it has virtually none!), but we are not talking about that. We are talking about the nitrogen added to the bark and the fact as bacteria utilize the nitrogen to breakdown the bark, not all is is returned as stated. that is incorrect. Some is lost to the air. Nobody I know disputes that except you. I have never seen a study where the breakdown of bark by adding additional nitrogen, that nitrogen is 100% retained, it is not. Chemistry 101. bacteria release the nitrogen as NH3 when they die. Well some of it, to be clear this time. The question was is fresh bark bad to use? Well not really but you will lose some nitrogen so one should take that fact in mind and give a little extra for the composting of the bark. Using composted bark, you don't really need to worry about it. Add normal amounts of nitrogen. You should know that.

esox07: Just went on the computer and read your posting. I hope that you found what you need. Please let us know if this bark product can be used to make the quick-draining, gritty-planting medium....the '"bark-fines" part. I guess the price is not that high considering the Repti-Bark is $20.00 a bag... and you can always use the leftovers in the future if you make too much potting mix. Just a bit more information....There's a product called: "Micro Bark" made by GreenAll but it's mainly found only on the West-Coast, and a few other states. This might help others who live in these locations. No distributors/retailers in NYC area! Why???? Who knows? Bruce,...Good luck with the peppers. I hope I helped you and others. In addition: Some posters on this thread chose to misquote and misrepresent some of the information which I posted ... especially about the subject regarding the gritty-mix, potting mediums. The purpose of these forums is to openly exchange opinions, information, and ideas... and to do so without invective, and snide recommendations, if you happen to disagree with that posted information.

To get the best answer regarding the pine fines, I would ask Al, tapla, over at the Container Gardening Forum. He would know the best answer to that question. He's very knowledgeable, and very helpful... I'm sure he'd be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. I grow my bulbs indoors all year 'round... most of my bulbs share an unobstructed east facing window, and have supplemental lighting to help. A few of my bulbs, the ones that won't fit into the east window alcove, share the south window, which is shaded all summer and fall by two huge Sycamore trees... I trade them out with bulbs from the east window every once in a while, so everyone gets decent amounts of light. Hippeastrum bulbs require tons of light, and while an unobstructed south window would probably be best for indoor growing, a summer outdoors in the garden would be even better... a shaded south window with supplemental lighting would be fine, too. My advice would be to give your indoor bulbs as much light as you can. I keep my bulbs in their pots, and only take them out to re-pot into the next size larger, or to change soil after a year or two... I treat my bulbs like houseplants, and I don't force them to bloom out of their natural season. I give them as much light as I can, water and fertilize as they need it, and keep a close eye out for pests and other potential problems. There are a few different ways to treat Hippeastrum bulbs... you can grow them indoors all year, summer them outdoors and bring them in before frost... you can force them to rest, and have them bloom on your schedule, or allow them to keep their own schedule... different growers treat their bulbs differently. I'm not sure if I've answered all of your questions... I've only explained how I treat my bulbs... after you've read about and understand the different methods for growing these beauties, you'll no doubt choose the way that works best for you. Keep in mind that Hippeastrum bulbs are sort of like batteries... they expend a lot of energy blooming, and they need lots of light and to be fed well so they can recharge for the next bloom season.

I have bought a pH test kit from Petsmart that is pretty good. It is a solution that you add 3 drops of it to prepare soil sample solution in the test tube ( in liquid form ). It comes with pH color chart that you compare your sample next to it. This kit is sold/used to check fish tank pH . Last year I did some of my own tests also had done by professional lab. They were virtually the same. the kit cost like 7 bucks and you can make 250 tests with it. With the soil pH you don't need to be dead accurate. Even a half a point deviation on the pH scale should be good enough for gardening purpose. Sey