Never heard of it and it's apparently brand new to US markets and only available in NE. That's likely why no one on the Container forum had any info either. What's worse there is minimal info available about it on the web. Even their own website provides no info on it, no contents, their catalog link gives a 404 error, no reviews anywhere except a couple of negative comments about how dry it is, that it contains soil supposedly, and that the texture is far too fine. Those may be nothing more than personal opinions. No way to know. No list of distributors is provided so it may by just a one time low price deal they made with a few New England suppliers. The company is Canadian so IF it is distributed in Canada some of the folks on the Canadian forums may have had some experience with it. The company seems to primarily focus on Christmas trees, pallets, wood burning logs and pellets. Per their About Us page they only recently moved into products like this. Not real confidence building. Nothing about it on any of my professional horticultural websites either - no mention at all. It is as if it only popped up. In fact when you Google it or Bing it your post of this question comes up first - that's a scary clue to the fact that little is known about it. Sorry no more info is available that I can find. Meanwhile the link below is to a list of all the suppliers of ProMix in New Jersey, PA, and Mass. Hopefully one of them is close to you. Dave. Here is a link that might be useful: Northeast ProMix distributors

speaking of expensive but interesting looking potting soils, this is also available near me. http://urbanrootstampa.com/store/roots-organics-potting-soil-15-cf/dp/441 I'm not one for shelling out that kind of cash for 2 buckets worth of soil, but deep down I kinda wanna get a bag, and either incorporate it into the mix for all the wonderful stuff it claims to contain, or maybe do a side by side. all I know is I have 40 seedlings that I might wanna get out of plastic cups and into bigger pots soon. so I need to come up with a plan quick. I kinda like the idea of mixing pro mix with pine fines. but if I'm gonna do that, I might as well save even more money and do the 511. the issue is I'm taking 15 credits of engineering classes, and working 30 hrs per week, and trying to fit judo back in there when my most recent injury clears up. time to mix 200 gallons worth of soil is hard to come by.

Mcreader, let me put it this way. I live in north GA. Pine trees are grown commercially all over this state and I struggle to find pine bark the past few years! Mulches are now dyed or colored. Some of the pine bark I've used was toxic because the trees were likely injected and killed standing.. here I was making soil mixes that contained powerful herbicides. (that was truly a very bad mix!) The best source I found is to get Lowes or Home Depot to order the product with a purple label sold as 'pine bark mulch'. Some bags have a lot of good size bark bits and others have a lot of wood and cambium or are too decayed. It's really become a hassle to find a good bark bit. Our local Home Depot said I could prepay and they could order some bags of the product I like to use so you might want to ask and see if that's available. I've used aggregate suppliers, landscape suppliers and places like that who had huge stacks of bark but you have to be careful and sort the sizes. Its a far better price but if you're willing to go through the trouble its a fraction of the cost of pre bagged products. I made this video a few summers ago explaining and showing the product I've had the most luck with. Maybe it will be helpful 511 explained

Here's some info about dolomite. It is from a master class in agriculture. Just remember you add lime, then foliage pro, better watch what you do. To much of a good thing can be just as bad. ---------------------------------------- High-magnesium lime Dolomite, or high-magnesium lime, can cause problems too. When dolomite is applied in too large of a quantity it can cause an excess in magnesium and have a negative effect on yields. The problem is it can be as long as three years after the excess lime has been applied before seeing the greatest amount of potential damage to the crop yields. By this time, unless the grower has kept good records, a connection between the liming and declining yields may be overlooked. (A moral here is to keep good records of when, where, how much and what type of lime each field receives.) Have you applied dolomite lime on any of your fields in the last few years? If so, count three crop years from the time of application and check the yields that year and thereafter as compared to yields prior to liming. Even if the applied magnesium from dolomite lime will have a detrimental effect, do not expect to see that yields have dropped the first year. For example, when too much dolomite is applied to land for cotton, it can eventually cause the plant to send out two lesser roots instead of one longer taproot. These roots do not go straight down, but curve to one side instead, and have less depth than the one taproot would normally have. (If you rip and hip, this effect will not always be as evident.) It will take three years to see the full negative effects of overusing dolomitic limestone. But when overused, once those effects have come into full effect it can cost a cotton farmer about ¾ bale of cotton per acre, every year, until the problem is corrected!Excess magnesium costs money In corn, on medium to heavy soils, a high level of magnesium (15%+) costs the farmer 10 bushels of corn per acre. Above 20% magnesium on the soil test reduces the yield by another 5+ bushels per acre. In addition, it will require more nitrogen to produce each bushel of corn every year until the problem is corrected. In legumes, taking soybeans as an example, 13-14% magnesium levels can cause 10 bushels per acre loss per year, even when all other nutrients are present in the proper amounts. Be sure what your soil really needs Even though too much, or the wrong type of lime can cut yields, limestone should always be applied where shown to be needed. Applying the proper amount of lime in the right form can provide far greater increases in yield than the losses that occur from misuse. Have your yields suffered in certain fields in the past few years? If so, avoid the mistake of failing to correctly check for and properly apply any lime that is needed. Just be sure that you use enough to correct the problem, but not so much that it causes problems three years from now and several years thereafter. If there is a need for lime, autumn is the best time to spread it for next Spring's crops. Do it correctly as needed and see the difference liming can make for crops over the next several years.