I also needed to buy some bagged soil over winter and don't remember if it was a Lowe's brand or MG but it was much more chunky, and labeled for palms & citrus. It's the best bagged potting soil I've encountered, hardly any peat which, IME, is just stuff that helps me kill plants, not keep them healthy. I've been thinking about getting more since I like how it has 'done' so far, not compacting or getting hydrophobic, though I know the chunks of organic materials will decompose quickly in the Alabama weather this summer, just like mix that I create with bark/mulch/similar stuff. So, when using a potting mix with organic ingredients (can decompose into smaller bits,) know that it will become less and less hospitable for roots to thrive, because the air spaces are eliminated as the tiny particles sift into them, and the growth of roots squeeze the air out of the pot, necessitating repotting more often, I do this annually. A mix of ingredients that don't decompose, or decompose much more slowly can allow plants to go 2-3 years, generally, before repotting is critical - from that particular angle. I think woody entities stay more healthy if their roots are trimmed annually, but this can be a daunting chore for some larger plants. Not a 1-size-fits-all thing, or 1-sided issue, largely dependent on your style, schedule, budget, etc... It's also good to know that the soil you used has fertilizer in it. It should say how long that is expected to last. Adding more fertilizer before then would definitely be overkill for something as slow-growing as a Dracaena. Whatever one is using, don't pack it in the pot. Leave it 'fluffed' and full of tiny air pockets. The first few times you water, don't avoid being thorough, but try for a gentle sprinkle, so the motion and weight of the water doesn't compact the soil. This gives roots access to oxygen and moisture at the same time, necessary for them to be healthy, as said above. Not to put too fine of a point on the water thing, but aside from being unnecessarily expensive (if actually filtered in a way that it contains no minerals, fluoride, chlorination, etc...,) bottled water has a wide range of possibilities, including being tap water just like what comes out of your own tap. Also common is spring/mineral water, containing unknown substances that may or may not be appreciated by any particular plant. Once water hits the ground anywhere, it can contain various substances, like lime which can alter PH. Distilled, rain, and condensate from dehumidifier or A/C are sources of water with "nothing in it," assuming it's collected in a clean container.

Thank you, thank you all. It seems others have been thinking along my line of thought too and I'm happy to hear some of you are breaking all the rules with success. I should have also mentioned all the dead foliage at my parents garden is still in place, so I won't have any problems locating what I want to locate. I made some pretty good mental notes earlier in the season too. I've kind of given up on the idea of planting most spring bulbs amongst my other perennials. It just gets too difficult when I want to move something and end up digging up bulbs in the process of moving something else. Since I move things around a lot, I've had this problem often. Bulbs that are planted very deep aren't as big a problem, but those little ones just a few inches below the surface are. That's the reason I'm kind of excited about having this area I can devote to spring bulbs. The hedge in the rear of this area will eventually fill in all the bare spots, but that's going to take a few years. In the meantime I have a blank slate to work with. Kevin

Yes... keep the leaves! Place the pot in the sunniest window you have... a southern exposure would be best. East is good, too. Keep an eye on watering, only giving it more when the soil is dry down to the root level. Stick your finger down into the soil, as far as it will go, to check for moisture. If you can feel any moisture, hold off on watering. These bulbs prefer to dry out in between waterings. Allow the leaves to grow and help the bulb gain energy. Think of the bulb as a battery... it needs to recharge before it can bloom. So, the better care you take now, the more the chance for a nice blooming next cycle. Hippeastrum bulbs, commonly known as Amaryllis, naturally bloom in spring or early summer. They are forced at the grower level to bloom for us at Christmas. But normally, they will bloom sometime in spring or early summer. You can also feed your bulb to help it along... I use regular liquid MiracleGro for houseplants. I mix a weak solution and water with it about every other watering, maybe once or twice a month. Other than that, just watch it grow! When the weather breaks and there's no longer danger of a frost, you can bring the pot outdoors. I think I'm just repeating myself... which I tend to do! Anyway... if you're interested, there's plenty to learn. Just start reading here in the forum... you'll learn about soils, the different bulb varieties, the pests and diseases that can hurt the bulbs, how to force dormancy, etc... Welcome to the forum! Beware... one of these bulbs can easily turn into a large hobby! :-)

Without undoing all your work so far, you can improve the lighting. Internet search grow light bulbs, 6500K. Then you'll be set, b/c room temp is great for them in winter. Increased air flow with a small fan also helps, as does supplemental humidity.