Al will most certainly chime in here and provide an excellent breakdown on soil mixes he recommends. Time and convenience typically dictate I use store-bought mixes rather than mix my own, so my contribution to this discussion is to tell you that my favorite mix for containerized conifers (as well as broadleaf evergreens and Japanese maples - and I grow a lot of all of them in containers) is one that is bark based. It also contains pumice, oyster shells and various organic amendments like kelp meal and cottonseed meal (to lower pH a bit). No peat. It holds up well and is very freely draining yet adequately water retentive. And much like yours, these are long term container plantings. I do supplement at planting time with a balanced organic fert as well as liquid applications periodically throughout the primary growing season.

Am I seeing a dwarf J. communis, J. horizontalis or wiltonii, P. mugo, and a little Chamaecyparis or Thuja?Can't make out the little deciduous guy.

All of those plants will do exceptionally well in a soil that has a high mineral (60-90%, but not topsoil or sand) content. I would suggest that you find some Turface (a hi-fired clay granule that is excellent at promoting drainage and aeration at the same time it retains good amounts of water and holds nutrients well). The plants you have all appreciate an open soil & the compost does nothing to help, so I would eliminate it. I'm at work, but I'll post a picture of an excellent soil for your plants when I get home tonight. It will consist of equal parts of Turface, grower grit, and pine bark with fertilizer, lime, and micro-nutrients added or supplied later, as you wish.

Al

Turface - is there a product name - PROFILE ? I may have some of this. Looks like old school kitty litter. Is there any other way to purchase. I seem to remember it was not avaialble to easily as Profile. Got it one year on sale at a big box, but have not seen it around since.

Picture is not great. J. "Motherlode", in front( this has been great in other containers) and the perennial is sedum dragons blood red. I think the mugo is "mops" All have done well. The hinoki is nana gracilis - will eventually get too big but has grown slowly in container. Thanks for your help.
I wasn't sure about the compost.
Could you also give examples of micro nutrients.

ggal--- It also contains pumice, oyster shells and various organic amendments like kelp meal and cottonseed meal (to lower pH a bit). Is this something you ad - in what quantities? Is there a name of the store bought mix that you use - does this mix not have peat?

Thankyou both ------ Mike

Here is a variation of the soil I use for all my woody plants (and houseplants):
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Another pic, this of a Pinus strobus 'Nana' that has had only a little (pruning only) bonsai work done on it:
{{gwi:4807}}
and a couple of looks at the soil:
{{gwi:4808}}

{{gwi:4809}}
You can see there is very little in the way of an organic component in this soil. I don't remember exactly, but I think it's about 45% Turface, 45% grower grit, and 10% uncomposted pine bark.

Profile makes Turface MVP. To read about it, follow link provided below. You can call 800 # for customer service (at bottom of page) & ask for distributors in your area. If distributors won't sell direct, ask them who they sell to near you.

I use Scott's Micromax as a micro-nutrient supplement, but you can use others. I think Home Harvest Garden Supply lists quite a few. Seaweed emulsions are rich in the minor elements, too.

You can't see the large hypertufa container here; you can only catch a glimpse of the Juniper (tall skinny) and the Tsuga (left foreground) that is planted in it. I also have a shimpaku juniper and a hinoki in it, but out of pic. I have a small sedum as a ground cover, which you also can't see. The point is, this container also has the soil in the first pic above in it.
{{gwi:1211}}

Hope some of this is helpful.

Al

Here is a link that might be useful: Turface

plantman, the mix I use is a west coast product, Gardner & Bloome Acid Planting Mix. I don't believe the distributor markets it east of the Rockies. And no, it contains no peat. Conifers, maples, broadleaf evergreens and all ericaceous plants grown in containers thrive in this mix.

interesting thread - tapla/All, how do you overwinter your conifer containers?

"tapla/All' should have been 'tapla/Al"

When temps drop into the teens, almost all are brought in to over-winter in an attached garage along with the other temperate plants. They usually go back on the grow benches in Mar when temps allow. If it gets too cold after that, I just set them on the ground until temps moderate (except Chamaecyparis - rabbits too fond of them to risk setting them in reach).

Al

Location is critical - I have many different containers around my house. Most are close to the house. If you plant conifers that are one zone lower or hardier that your own - you will have the best sucess. All mine stay outside all year. I am zone 6

Thanks for the response - I'm going to try a few, but don't have a facility for inside/protected cold winter storage. On those larger containers, I was wondering about mounding an abundant amount of mulch - I have plenty - around the container as a protective measure?

The limiting factor of hardiness levels in growing containerized woody material is actual root temperatures. Stem/branch/twig tissues of woody temperate plants are much more hardy than roots. For this reason, if you're willing to do a little extra work, you can actually grow many conifers that are hardy to a zone (or more) warmer than your zone.

I am able to grow many species hardy to only 7 (a few to 8) here in MI by moving them into the garage over winter. If the garage was unavailable, I would bury the "hardy to 7" containers against the north wall of my house & mulch. Soils next to a crawl space or basement are often 10-15* warmer than soils in the garden and beds. I have never had frost in the soil here in MI within about 2-1/2 - 3 ft of the foundation. The additional radiant heat that rises from the soil near a structure also moderates ambient air temps around stems & branches.

You could also build a simple 3-sided structure (cold frame) that uses a side of a building as the 4th side. 3 sides of plywood and a plywood lid is an excellent way to trap geothermal heat from the soil and heat from the structure to raise air temperatures around the entire plant.

Al

Has anyone used OIL DRI -
I remember many years ago - we would keep a bag of oil dri in the garage to sop up oil spills. It was tan just like profile - and it was pretty cheap. WOnder if it will work? So then I looked it up on the garden web, and saw this thread - I cut and pasted it below. ANd list the link

Greetings All:
The list I have posted below, I found on another Bonsai Forum. I use Turface, made by Profile. If you check out their website,you can call the 800 number and they can tell you where you can locate the nearest supplier in your area.
Good luck, Goz
Soil Amendment sources:

Profile Turface
www.profileproducts.com and www.turface.com

TXI Diamond Pro
Diamond Pro is described as an expanded
shale and clay.
www.txi.com and www.diamondpro.com

Oil Dri Soil Master & Terra Green
www.oildri.com/agri/index.html and
www.bonsaimonk.com for Terra Green (a bit
expensive)

Southern Athletic Fields Mule Mix
www.mulemix.com

Eagle Pitcher Play Ball & Axis Soil Amendment
(both diatomaceous earth PLUS products)
www.eaglepitcher.com/Filtration_Minerals/Products_services/Scroll to Axis Soil Amendments and Play Ball

Stabilizer Solutions Stabilizer
www.stabilizersolutions.com

Lots of fun - Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Oildri

You've been busy. ;o) Good info.

Al

Thanks for the help with container soil for my conifers.
Can't take credit for the list above - I found it on a post in thsi forum - GOOD info.

I think that I will try the ESPOMA productfor a while - Everyone has it and the cost is not too bad - Profile may be more avaialable as it gets warmer

FInally an example of what you can do with small/ dwarf conifers in a large container. I first saw these containers when I visited Islie Nursery in Oregon. Was with the American Conifer Society - on a tour of west coast nurseies and gardens - WOW what a visit.

The Conifers are Picea glauca Jean's Dilly, ( this has always worked great for me) Chamaecyparis obtusa "Hage' and Juniperus Mother Lode - Also planted are some semps ( just got from Mtn Crest Nursery -- great place for semps) and hidden in the back are soem Echeverria - not hardy but a great plant to ad in the spring when it gets past 50o F.

Here is a link that might be useful: Conifer Container

Neat photos. OH - and Sedum and Sempervivum are such a good choice for conifer containers - especially with pines & junipers.

Al