Lop off the top... that is pretty much what i thought i'd have to do to the big one at least. Never thought or read about the hinge straightening method before although i did wonder if something of the sort could be done. I even got an email from Oikos tree crops about their mulch mats and wondered if i should get a couple. I think i might. What is the best time to have a go at the big tree? It is any time of year or right about now is good? I'd like to keep these trees fairly small, i had thought they were dwarfs before i knew that both standard and dwarf were most always grafted. Growing up, all i had ever seen of apple trees growing on family land were seed grown except the one 3-in-one my grandfather had cobbled together himself many, many years ago. The big one is almost too tall to get the spray onto all the way to the top, so i won't miss losing any height. Also, is Bonide Fruit Tree Spray a good spray for these trees? I didn't know what exactly what to look for when i decided i needed to do something. I knew the trees had problems, but i didn't know where to begin looking them up. So i got what i hope is an effective broad-spectrum remedy. Is there something better i can get and something i can use right off? I first used the Bonide just as the leaves were unfurling and again when the flowers were all pink but not opened. The petals are falling, but not fast and they are turning brownish orange. There are even some buds that haven't opened yet... is that normal or a sign of an issue? I'm supposed to use the Bonide again when the petals fall but where it seems to be taking an extended time doing so, i'm wondering if the starting fruit will get attacked by something in the mean time. I tried finding a pictoral guide to pests & diseases of apples, but i didn't find anything i could use. I bought "The Pruning Book" by Lee Reich the other day, it won't arrive for a while in the mail. I have looked at other orchard books but i don't want to end up with less than helpful information... books are not cheap in any media. I was looking at the trees this morning and i was thinking... would it be stupid to just prune off anything that isn't flowering? Like the obvious suckers just shooting straight up. At least on the small one. I'd need a ladder anyway! Thanks for putting up with the rambling!

A planting hole really depends on the soil. I have seen some soil so incredibly rich and friable that you literally dig a hole big enough for the root ball and drop it in. For heavy clay, the digging out 4 feet is likely a good idea to get the initial soil loose for the growing roots to spread out. Tamping works (to remove air pockets) [you can use the shovel handle] BUT since you dug out the hole to loosen the dirt why would you want to compress the soil back around the roots? It seems a better method is to shake the tree in th esoil filled hole back and forth slightly up and down (vibrate it) while filling the hole with water. This collapses any air pockets without compressing the soil. As for depth, it is at worst as deep as the root flare. The rule is a couple of inches shy of the root flare height so the tree will settle in and NOT be below grade. A tree planted above grade is fine, below grade (too deep) will ultimately die from it. Heavy clay means water retention, slow and wide water infiltration and long watering to get the water to penetrate down three feet as needed. If your area has problems with root rot you might consider raised bed planting. Do not water too frequently or anaerobic conditions will develop which will kill the tree. I never stake trees. I especially see no need in heavy soil...it should hold. If you do, two wooden stakes planted outside the root ball, perpendicular to the prevailing winds at the time of planting. Measure about where you think the support should be applied and it should likely be LOOSELY tied about 2/3rds the way down from where you figured it should be tied. Just my experience. You want the lower trunk to not move but the greater part of the the upper to freely move. Lastly, after it is tied saw off the stakes a few inches above the ties; this prevents the tree from beating itself against the stakes. Tie the tree off with nursery tape or some other binding that will not cut into the trunk. The tree's roots should have grown out in 6-12 weeks and allow removal of the stakes but if you want you can leave them in until the tree goes dormant before removal. Just remember the longer the tree is staked the wimpier the trunk. I like to soak bare roots in a garbage pail for at least 2 hours, overnight or up to 24 hours (what ever is convenient) right before planting to rehydrate the roots. Some nurseries do not think this is needed. I don't see how it hurts. I use Superthrive now to soak the trees as it appears to actually improve recovery which really surprised me. Your local planting traditions apply: Test drainage? Orient the graft junction in a specific orientation? Paint the trees? Supplements? (I suspect this is a bad idea anywhere since trees must grow into areas without the supplementation eventually but I leave it to local wisdom generally provided...

Lateriser: I hate to waste money too, but don't mind spending some to get the best for certain things. Nursery stock is one of those things. You get pretty much what you pay for. Agree with DJofnelson that is is very good fortune to have a source like Vintage Virginia nearby, which is run by very good, honest people, and where you can get good advice as well as good trees. Tom Burford, who has advised the nursery for years, is the acknowledged expert on ancient and modern apples in the state of Virginia. It just wouldn't make sense to bring in trees from the West coast or anyplace else when you have this resource nearby. Having said that, I would caution you to be very careful when planting large numbers of heirloom apples. Many well-known heirloom English apples do not adapt well to the Virginia climate, and you have to know which is which. I planted a bunch years ago with visions of making English-style cider, but dropped that idea when I found I didn't need another full-scale hobby. Other heirlooms, while unique or unusual in flavor and appearance, are very shy bloomers and bearers compared with many of the modern apple varieties available today. Lucky's suggestion of grafting your own might be the best if you want to plant lots of trees but hold down costs. You could plant out a bunch of rootstocks this fall, and be ready to graft in the spring. Scionwood is available for nearly all varieties, and I would be happy to supply you with some myself at no cost but mailing. I know you could handle grafting, since I have done it successfully myself, and many other beginners here have also been successful on the first attempts. You have all winter to study techniques. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

As you'll see in Ianna's thread, there aren't that many short trees to choose from :-) Trees also tend to have a fairly wide crown and will have to be planted at some distance from a fence to avoid damaging the fence as it grows. If they're planted too close they could also eventually shade your neighbour's yard and that could cause problems down the road. If you have the space then a couple of cherry trees, flowering crabapples, Kousa dogwood or even magnolias ($$$) are some of my favourites. If I wanted only a couple of additional feet of height and space was an issue, I'd use a lattice topper like Judy mentioned, but if you really want plants there, Maybe you could use a trellis and plant some climbing roses too. If space is not an issue, then there are tons of shrubs like forsythia, lilacs, mock orange and spirea that will grow to a decent height and provide some flowers and scent as well. They're all fairly easy to care for and easy to find. Another things to consider: do you want something that will screen in the winter as well? Then you'll want some sort of evergreen plant. Cedars are the usual choice for that sort of situation (fairly fast growing and not hugely expensive) and they can be planted fairly close to a fence. Yew is another option, as it is very prunable, but it is a slow grower. BP