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dsimber
11 months ago
last modified: 11 months ago
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Home Interiors With Ease
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landscape project in Mt. Airy, MD (pics inside)
Comments (8)Lots of good responses, thanks! aka_peggy: I will be doing most of the work myself, with other friends adding a bit of labor. Thanks for the plant ideas and the link to natives. I am big on natives, so will definitely use this! annabert: I'll send her to Thanksgiving Farms--do they have nice designs going all year 'round? Could she go in January? GardenGranma: Wow, so many shows and tours! If I could only choose 3 or 4 to attend (I have to fly up there and all, LOL), which would you recommend? creatrix: The CM will be any variety that gets about 10" high or so. Down here, we have a variety called Natchez that I love, but I'm not sure it is available in your area. The bed at the house is about 6' deep and, yes, I plan to put in a hedge row and then a smaller variety in front of that. I need to take a closer look at this though, once I have the measurements. The curves are supposed to be gentle and flowing, not scalloped. I guess my picture appears a bit busy, LOL, but that isn't my intention. Brent_in_NoVa: Thanks for reminding me about foot traffic. I think I will add a stone 'landing' so that people walking up the drive won't be crammed between a parked car and the bed. My parents have the same type of walk/drive and it is a pain for this very reason. For the retaining wall, I think this is probably as high as it will go. She really doesn't want it at all, but I think it is necessary for erosion control. Other homes have the same slope and very few have walls. One the right side of the property, I would like to pull the neighbor's yard into hers, hence the river birch. There is more room than it appears, and I wanted something that would get pretty dense. She has probably 15' of that part of the land, but I will need to measure again. I will be posting a 'real' landscape design once I have the measurements. I think this will help me (us!) to gain some perspective. Thanks again, keep your thoughts coming! Chris...See MoreDesign my first house, Need guidance
Comments (3)It would help to know the conditions and restrictions you will have to contend with like the location of the project and the applicable building codes. Building codes are not very restrictive but you need to be sure you don't accidentally violate a provision. If the most common code is used (the IRC), hallways and stairs must be at least 36" wide and habitable spaces (a habitable space is a space for living, sleeping, eating or cooking - bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces) must have aggregate an glazing area of at least 8% of the room floor area being lighted and the minimum openable area to the outdoors must be 4% of the floor area being ventilated. However, artificial lighting and mechanical ventilation may be substituted if they meet the required standards. Every dwelling must have at least one habitable room that is 120 s.f. or larger. Other habitable rooms must be at least 70 s.f. in area or 7 ft in any horizontal direction. Habitable space, hallways, bathrooms, toilet rooms, laundry rooms and portions of basements containing these spaces must have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet. Bathroom ceilings must be at least 6-8 at fixtures including the shower head. A toilet must have a clear width of 30" and a toilet and a lavatory must have at least 21" clearance in front. A minimum shower is 30 x 30 but in some states it is slightly larger. Basements, habitable attics, and sleeping room must have an "emergency escape and rescue opening" with a maximum sill height of 44" and a minimum clear opening of 5.7 s.f. (grade floor openings can be 5 s.f.) and a minimum width of 20" and a minimum height of 24". A basement can have a door with a bulkhead. Window catalogs will usually have a star or asterisk next to windows that meet these requirements. Some states have modified the IRC code to reduce the required opening size....See MoreNeed guidance: panel ready SubZero Built-in overlay (flush) design
Comments (24)sageviews... short answer is I have no idea. Longer answer: I'm not familiar with Kitchenaid built-in models, so I can't say for sure, but... It's not so much the depth with a built-in, or the space you allow beside it, as it is the hinges on the refrigerator door. While you could leave a 1/2" clearance all the way around (and please don't let anyone tell you that looks bad, many current refrigerators require that space, and lots of people have them and it sure doesn't bother them) - your doors may still jut out a bit. Depending where you live and your personal tastes, this might be perfectly fine, or it might not suit you. Sub Zero realized a while back that integrated (flush with cabinetry) was becoming popular, so their built-ins, which are not true integrated, had hinges that operated in such a way that the door does not need to extend beyond the cabinetry beside it to open completely. Thus, if someone had the depth and space, they could install the SZ built-ins very similar to an integrated... flush with the cabinetry. I don't think Kitchenaid did this with their built-in hinges. You'd really have to go look at them, and inquire. The easiest way to tell is to take a piece of flat wood (a 1 x 8 or a small piece of plywood - or even a stiff notepad), hold it just beside the door - flush, and open the door the way. Does it hit the wood? If yes, you can't flush install. Is that horrible? If one really wants panels but can't find integrated or it's beyond the remodel budget, no, I don't think so. Just my opinion. It's kind of hard for me to explain the difference in hinges, but the SZ's allow the door to open in place, it does not need side-room. I can't tell by looking at Kitchenaide's site, but I'm pretty sure they require a non-flush install. Basically, the difference is this: SZ built in flush inset: kitchenaide built in flush inset: Hope whatever you decide, you are happy with it : )...See MoreWanted! Good eye for corner art! Mockup skills a bonus!
Comments (11833)As for what comes first, the art or the chandelier. Not sure, but my first thought is that the chandelier position will be based on the table, meaning the bottom part of the chandelier will only be x to y inches above the table. Heres an article that helps explain range and how to adjust based on ceiling height... https://www.tidbitsandtwine.com/chandelier-height-above-table/#:~:text=For a 9-foot ceiling,in proportion with the room....See Moredsimber
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