I called Moder Masters and talked with a technical specialist. They told me that their dead flat varnish was NOT meant for use on bare wood, but to even the sheen on painted finishes? Makes me nervous to use this finish now on my soon-to-be-delivered table.

FYI: My experience with the monocoat was very different from what you've stated. My table is beautiful and you absolutely can not tell it was finished with a protective product. It is has no sheen and looks as unfinished as when it arrived. I purchased the RH Monastery 10' table in Acacia Grey and have had no problems. The ease of application vs other products I have used is hands down a winner. This thread was started in 2013 so I find Carla's tone offensive when so many people have been helping each other without aggressive and judgmental posts; it comes off as arrogant.

I used the MM dead flat on my antique pine coffee table and the color looks the same and water beads up. So glad I did this over the Rubio as my test area yellowed with Rubio. My advice is to do several THIN coats rather than fewer heavier coats. I did three coats on the top and two coats everywhere else.

If you showed me the table with no MM and then again with it and asked me what was different about the table without telling me what was done to it I would say nothing.

It says on the can that it is for painted finishes, not for unfinished wood. I wonder if you would have problems with the MM finish over time since it isn't designed to be used on bare wood...

Hopefully not. I've read through many discussions and a lot of wood workers will use it on their bare wood tables to seal it, so hoping its fine.

Update- so I bought two square wood samples of the reclaimed oak in the grey wash. I used General Finishes Flat High Performance finish and you can definitely tell it's there - it adds a satin sheen to it.

On the other one I used Modern Masters Dead Flat it imparts a barely noticeable milky discoloration but no change in sheen

After doing more research, I understand that MM varnish is not designed to be used over raw wood

I have found that General Finishes makes a flat finish topcoat that can be used on top of their water based poly. I have used their water based poly before and it is bulletproof

since I have young kids and durability and protection is important, I am thinking about doing 2-3 coats of GF high performance poly followed by their flat topcoat to remove the sheen

Will keep you updated.

Has anybody tried the Monocoat or some other protective coating on the RH Salvaged Wood trestle table in the salvaged grey finish?

I am doing a table in reclaimed oak in grey finish.

Do not use monocoat - it is not meant for wood that has been finished

i have tested a few finishes on their samples. The one that I will use when my table is delivers is General Finishes Flat Out Flat. It can be used over both raw and finished wood.

Because I have kids, I am planning on doing a few coats of their water based high performance polyurethane first. This is one of the best water based topcoats and is very durable. Because it has a little bit of a sheen to it, I am going to put the Flat out Flat top coat over it to get it back to the original flat factory finish. I have done this on the sample board and it looks great - just like the original

@jwsargent4 - Would you mind sending pictures of the final product? Would love to get an update. We are about to purchase a dining table in the grey finish and I'm so nervous not to put anything on it but Im also afraid of using the wrong product to protect it!

I used Monocoat on RH table and loved the results and the fact that when my kids spill anything on the table it just beads up! There is also no sheen whatsoever. It was super easy to apply too. Here are the photos of the the table before and after. I used 5% smoke on my natural salvaged wood table. The color changed a bit but I didn't mind the slight change. Also please note that the lighting is different in both pics so the color change is not as drastic as it seems here.

Hello! I just varnished my new RH natural trestle table with 2 coats of MM Dead Flat varnish - now that it's dried, I see some spots where I must have put it on too heavy and they look like chalk lines on my base - suggestions for how to remove these without ruining my table? Otherwise looks exactly the same!!

thanks!

@Claudia Maira - Hi! I don't know the answer to your question about low-VOC versus VOC. It's a good question for Modern Masters customer care. As far as using it on solid salvaged wood grey or salvaged wood natural finishes...my gut says MM will work. On your table, the RH site says its OK to use a "high-quality clear furniture wax to protect from minor spills" and that (because its a solid wood?) you can sand down any stains with a fine grit sandpaper. (My Dumont table is a fine veneer, so sanding it down is not a good idea, ever). Know what? I'd do some research on the furniture waxes people have been trying on here and see what they say, too, just to get all the info. Then make your decision.

@Lea Cram - Hi! Your table looks awesome!!

@cdfont - Hi! So glad you had good luck with the product you used. Everyone has a different opinion on what looks good and whether they are OK with a color/sheen change after applying a protective finish. Since 2013, people were having a lot of trouble on this thread (it seemed to me) with the products that were being recommended here. I just offered up an alternative, but by no means did I intend to offend. Have a great day!!

@jlavek -- Hi! It's hard to say what I'd do without seeing it but I think you could try using 0000 steel wool to rub it down, smooth it out and then (possibly) reapply a light coat in that one spot. But just rubbing it down with the wool might be all that's required.

Hi - I just bought the parsons natural oak table and bench

1. I know many have spoken about the salvaged wood so wasn't sure if oak is the same- how do I best protect this table?? - @ultimate hardwood Ltd I'm actually not clear after reading this thread what to do!!

2. If I apply the protective coat ( which I want to bc I have young kids) will this void my RH warranty? I had oily food tonight and I can see a mark already which upsets me given that I've spent a pretty $$ on it

Thanks! This thread has been very helpful!

1 - yes, your table is different from a salvaged wood table. I would call RH and ask if it already has a wax finish on it. If yes, then your stuck with applying more wax as you can't apply a more durable resin-based finish over wax. If no, then you can try different finishes on the bottom of the table or bench and pick whichever you prefer. I would recommend trying Rubio Monocoat pure natural oil (you can get a sample for $10 online) and General Finishes Flat out Flat. The oil may discolor the finish, the Flat out Flat may leave a minimal milky change in color but keeps a truly flat finish. Other options are General Finishes High Performance Poly, which is the most durable of these choices, but this leaves more of a sheen even with the Flat poly.

2- YES, if you apply anything other than furniture wax, you will void your warranty.

PS - I will be putting a finish on my reclaimed grey oak and will update when finished in 1-2 weeks

I had wax on my walnut countertop-- I removed the wax with naphtha and then sanding it with 150 grit sandpaper with orbital sander. Then used the monocoat. It is wonderful. Water just beads up-- cooking oil wipes off. No more rings!! It is amazing

Has anyone used any product to protect/seal the St. James Dry Oak Restoration Hardware table? I appreciate any do's, don'ts & suggestions. Thank you for reading.

I just bought the RH trestle table in salvaged brown. Should I go with the general finishes or the Modern Masters to protect it? I'm pretty confused at this point, though from what I've read, I shouldn't use the 100 % tung oil on the salvaged brown. Any advise is keenly welcome!

full discussion here: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/how-to-protect-unfinished-wood-dining-table-from-restoration-hardware-dsvw-vd~2912389

Ill cut to the punchline - don't use modern masters

If we've used mm, can we do General finishes over it?

Ok so that's a new to me. My instincts say it should be fine but may take upto 2-3 applications cause it drying the wood real crispy like. Perhaps try ODIES OIL instead as it's cheaper and will only take one coat. Be sure to type 'ultimate hardwood' in the comment box. Thanks and good luck.

@Ultimate Hardwood – Will Odie's Oil retain the raw, dry finish?

Odies doesn't amber at all.

@ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD

I was doing research on Rubio Monocoat Oil and I found this. Now i'm uncertain if I should be using this at all on my RH table.

http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2017/61798r-eng.php

Switch it upto #odiesoil without issue. Where are you located? Email me directly please!

How about the bottom shelf on this Kitchen cart ? It's natural redwood right now. I was going to use a Tung oil/beeswax finish on it but if you have a better recommendation i'm open to it?

@Annette Ferstenfeld I love the way your table turned out. Did you use 5% Smoke on it's own or did you mix it with the Pure? Did you buy the 2C with the accelerator? If you mixed, what was the ratio? Would love to have the same outcome as your table. Thank you!

I have tried to keep up with the suggestions in this thread and feel like no one has truly answered what is best to use on the RH salvaged wood trestle table in salvaged brown. So can someone give me the "For Dummies" version of the answer? I'm not looking to change/alter the color, just want to seal and protect from the little minions that run around my house.

I also recently purchased the RH salvaged wood trestle table in brown. I've read numerous blogs in detail, and experimented on the backside of a leaf. Tried the General Finishes HP Flat. The result was too shiny. Then I added a layer of General Finished Flat out Flat on top of the GF-HP Flat. This knocked out the shininess, but left a whitish milky film. Not good. I've read that the Briwax is all that is needed to protect the salvaged brown table. I would be appreciative of anyone who can share their experience with the brown table.

@Michelle - for my salvage brown trestle table I used a wipe on poly in satin finish. There is not too much shine after 2 coats. I will post a picture later today

This is after 3 coats of wipe on poly. The 3rd coat I put a generous coat so it left a slight shine. After the 2nd coat there was no shine. Hope this helps.

@Sue that looks nice. I like that. So all you did was put on 3 coats of the wipe on poly? Nothing else, correct?

Yup! just 3 coats and let dry 2-3 hours between each. It was very easy to apply the wipe on. I did explore a poly in matte finish which has no shine whatsoever. If you do not want any shine at all I would use that finish.

Thanks Sue! Your table looks great. What brand of poly did you use? Also, how did you apply the poly? You mention wipe-on?

This is the poly I used. I poured some in a small paint try and dipped my rag in. I applied to the table with the grain of the wood and rubbed off access. I let dry 2-3 hours between each coat. That's it!. It was extremely easy to apply.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Satin-Oil-Based-16-fl-oz-Polyurethane/999914303?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA--Paint--InteriorStains-_-999914303:Minwax&CAWELAID=&kpid=999914303&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1583&k_clickID=1ba4eabb-ce42-4f73-a705-ced7a4344fed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAus_QBRDgARIsAIRGNGi7jrcx0oPvMnDJZnLgOVXllXYdLQAUK4nEXv8HL5ZZgzpo8poGUXwaAuxOEALw_wcB

I have a question for those who used Rubio's. Do you really use the special cleaner? I've refinished a kitchen table, and even if I intend to use the Rubio's cleaner, there's no way everyone else isn't going to just use dish soap (Dawn) on a sponge.

I'm unable to find the matte Rustoleum (in SoCal) and am waffling about ordering the Rubio's.

Update: I used the suggestion of a poster above. . General Finishes Top Coat in Satin, two coats, followed by one coat of General Finishes Flat--to give the protection of the shinier stuff with the final finish mostly matte. So far it looks great. . . we'll see how it holds up.

Thanks to all who have posted as so helpful! Has anyone had luck with the mohawk no blush plus retardant that was suggested to a customer by RH? I'll opt for the General Masters Dead Flat but wonder if Mohawk is preferable, especially given General has indicated that product shouldn't be used on unfinished reclaimed wood? I am trying to decide on how best to protect an RH salvaged natural trestle table. Thanks!!

@oreo_nyc how is your reclaimed 19th century trestle table holding up? That’s the exact one I’m looking to get. I know I can protect it with oil so I’m more worried about splitting, cracking, cupping, warping? And does the table have a lot of uneven ledges or gaps between the planks? I’ve got kids so I do need to be able to wipe it easily. Thanks!

@catchick how has it held up?

just wanted to chime in. The monocoat mixture years later has held up. No stains. Monocoat Pure and Natural combo. Think 85% Pure 15% natural ...

My walnut kitchen island has also held up amazingly well and it gets quite the work out! Love the Rubio monocoat— I am just guessing here but in a few years I will probably use the umo to refresh it

Forgot to add the photo- . 12 ft x 5 ft walnut kitchen island

@jwsargent4 thanks so much for the info you've shared - I used the General Finishes HP on our reclaimed natural RH table and love the results. Color changed ever so slightly but in my opinion, looks even a little more rich. Stands up to everything and I can serve dinners at my table w/o a worry!

Kg13, sorry, know your post is years old... when you said you used “Rust-oleum matt finish product over wax in this instance” does that mean you put wax down first, then the Rust-oleum? If so, would you be willing to say what wax product you used first and the procedure such as how you applied the wax, how many coats, how long did you wait to apply Rust-oleum etc? Your table is beautiful. Now being 4.5 years since your post here, how is your table holding up?
Thanks kg13!
Janet

@leannmva did you ever end up finding a solution for the St. James Dry Oak table? We just purchased and after reading these posts, I’m panicking!

I bought a RH trestle table in Salvage Black I think. It was a few years ago at the outlet and for a really good price. I prefer the Natural Salvage look and thinking about Soda Blasting it down to the natural finish. I am nervous that stripping it down because I don't know what the wood really looks like underneath and afraid that they used wood pieces that don't look similar. Has anyone had experience with RH piece in Salvage Black or non-Natural and sanding it down? How does it look? Please post pictures if anyone has some. Thank you.