Why not continue with cork. The floor under your sample planks would be a great match to your kitchen as it is. Anyway, cherry brown has a hard time working with white washed oak. The clash can be TREMENDOUS. Gray has a hard time working with cherry. And the taupe browns you have in the kitchen will also clash with a gray toned floor. Keep the kitchen photos on your phone...and make sure you take the samples home. I'm seeing undertone clashes with the floor+cabinet combo as well as undertone concerns with the counter top/backsplash + floor sample. You would have to do too much work to your kitchen to get those white-washed samples to work. The light gold in your hickory is a much better match than the samples in the photos. That's why the cork UNDERNEATH the sample boards would work better than the samples. Good luck. Keep searching.

Hi John, do you have any photos of the space you could post? That might be helpful. In general, it's trickier to make wood floors work with wood stained cabinets, but I've done it. Since you don't want reddish floors, I'd aim for a cooler brown - more towards a walnut. I would NOT do ebony floors; those super-dark floors are impossible to keep looking clean. They show dust, lint, grass, etc. Also, what stain product is your contractor using? Most come in pre-mixed colors. That may determine the palette you have to choose from. Other stains can be tinted or adjusted if needed. Adding green to a stain color, for example, will help cut the red of the oak floors. You have to go easy though, you don't want to end up with a noticeable green tone. You're welcome to email me directly if you want more info - I don't check messages on here very often. Thanks Info@PaintColorHelp.com

"I did put pics in but must have put them in incorrectly?" Since they are not showing up I would say that is a resonable assumption...........

Have you looked at Hallmark’s lines? They have 3mm face thickness, wider plank and nice finish options. You couldn’t be convinced to do 5” wide white oak solid stained on site? That’s why I asked about thickness. Sometimes engineered is better because the overall product thickness is less than 3/4 solid and meets site goals (like door clearances and such)....but if you don’t have those restrictions then solid wood is always the better and gives you a lot more leeway with stain options - not to mention if you ever need to repair an area due to a flood or whatnot then you’d be happy you chose the site finish which can always be patched in. Engineered choice will most likely not be available so solid is always a better resale choice. But I understand about your wish for a wider plank. We also wanted that but had to do engineered and chose American Relics. This product is not 3mm thick unfortunately as our budget did not allow for that. But if we could have done solid we would have. Good luck!