Remember my question about a substitute for Peppadew peppers?
6 months ago
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- 6 months agolast modified: 6 months ago
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Question about Al's mix, tomatoes, peppers, and CRF's
Comments (25)In container culture, which is more like hydroponics than gardening, it's always better to use a fertilizer or supplement your fertilizer with something that provides all the secondary macro and all the micronutrients. Almost any soluble fertilizers you'd choose to use provide NPK in various %s. Many also provide Fe, Mn, and Zinc (Miracle-Gro formulations e.g.). Usually glaringly absent are the secondary macronutrients Ca and Mg. Including a micronutrient supplement and liming your soil insures a full compliment of all the nutrients. In short - choose a fertilizer that HAS ALL the nutrients or use a micronutrient supplement, and lime homemade soils with dolomitic (garden) lime. Hard to find, but very effective at supplying the micronutrients are Micromax and STEM. Easier to find is Earthjuice Microblast. One fertilizer in the 3:1:2 ratio that contains ALL the elements (including Ca and Mg) is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. This fertilizer alone should be excellent for most things you would grow. Use it at a reduced rate & combine it with Pro-TeKt 0-0-3 for a lower N mix for tomatoes. The silicon on the Pro-TeKt will also improve cellular health & make for a stronger plant that resists cultural adversities (heat, cold, insects, disease . . . better. Though irrigation water DOES have an impact on nutrition (usually mostly Ca/Mg), unless you know it's content via analysis, you shouldn't rely on it to insure adequate levels of any of the nutrients. Al...See Morequestions about peppers and toamtos
Comments (18)Thanks, podpiper. 'Bout dropped my dentures when I saw the "not even a related family" comment. ;) 400 Plants tops me as we only do 20-30 mixed varieties each year. Trying Bolivian Rainbow and Purple Jalapeno from hotpepperseeds.com for the first time this year. Any experience with either? John - the cause of stem rot is transplanting peppers into soil that is too cold and too wet. You can easily improve your soil's ability to drain and you can avoid overwatering but you can't control the soil temps except by waiting. Peppers need consistent 70 degree soil minimum before planting and 75 is best. Check your soil temps before transplanting and you won't have that problem. mrmulcher - (good name!) I forgot to mention to you that there is a great FAQ here on pepper planting that you might want to review too. I linked it for you below. And this article might be of interest to you also as it discusses how the roots form. Hope it helps. ;) Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Transplanting Peppers...See MorePeppadew peppers - seeds available?
Comments (79)When I overwinter pepper plants, I usually do an extreme trim and cleanup of the leaves, branches and roots, as well as re-potting with fresh medium, mostly to avoid pest issues inside the house. You could bring in your plants just as they are or prune to almost any level you like, depending how concerned you are with aphids and the like. What are those pots, 6" or so? It's a good size to overwinter plants of that size, so keep those. You'll get the hang of their watering schedule fast enough, which should not be too often, especially if you prune them. I usually wait until the plant looks a bit thirsty or for the top inch of medium to feel dry and then deeply water. You should not need to fertilize, especially if your potting medium is relatively fresh, at least not until early spring....See MoreQuestions about my Hot Hungarian Wax Peppers (Hybrids/Crosses)
Comments (3)It all depends. But the first pod is usually a runty mutant that has poor flavor. They tend to grow from the first fork, i usually snip those off. Personally i think this is what you are dealing with. But, the original plants could have been an F1 commercial breed labeled as "Hungarian Hot Wax". That would mean you have an F2 generation on your hands. If so, then if you had planted 10 of them, all 10 could have come out looking different. F2 is where crosses begin to change, sometimes revealing their parentage. The F3 generation will keep showing variance, by about F5 is when things begin to stabilize. The changes end around F8 or so. But, if the greenhouse starts were accidentally crossed in your backyard last year, then you would have an F1 cross on your hands. F1 plants almost always turn out looking the same as one another. Steve....See More- 6 months ago
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laceyvail 6A, WVOriginal Author