What's the difference between the cost of soil for a berm on top of the impeded drainage layer and filling giant holes dug out of it? I'd think less soil would be used for the berm, plus you wouldn't have the expense of digging holes out of the existing material and disposing of the material so generated. You don't necessarily need a huge depth of soil for trees, especially ones grafted onto fully dwarfing rootstocks. You are likely to need some kind of support system for these as the comparatively feeble roots that dwarf the tops also aren't very good at holding them upright over time. Install drainage if needed as determined by percolation test ... All planting holes must be dug at least three times as wide as the root ball or wider but no deeper than the root ball to avoid settling. Where drainage is marginal, all plants should be planted shallow or in mounds or berms ... If the existing soil is very poor, remove and replace with good field soil or place at least six inches of good field soil on the surface. However, you should match soil types as backfilling with a good sandy loam in a heavy clay will serve as a collection point for water and the roots will suffocate ... --Whitcomb, Establishment and Maintenance of Landscape Plants (1987 (1991), Lacebark Inc., Stillwater) Here is a link that might be useful: Books Available

So far my fruit trees are doing well. In my espalier I've four pears on semidwarf pear stock, one pear on quince stock, and six or seven apples on dwarf stock. I'd be happy to share the names of the varieties and rootstocks if you'd like. There's been minimal die-off, and even the quince rootstock seems to be holding up fine. They're pretty well protected, with a southern exposure and a 4' fence running parallel about 18" behind the espalier. I think if you're going to try dwarf apples, an espalier may be the way to go - the two apples I have (on M7 and M26) that are staked rather than in the espalier definitely have a tougher time getting battered by the winds. The plums - 5, all European - are not in the espalier; they're also doing fine. A couple have begun blossoming well, but the rains in May last year kept fruit set near zero. They're planted 5' apart and all but one is 8-10' tall; the other I pruned very hard after 2 years to change the shape from a pyramid to a vase, and has yet to really recover. The only issue with the plums is with breakage of limbs from wet snow/freezing rain; they have had no problems at all with the recent winds. The plums aren't staked, and are on mazzard or mahleb stock. The one tree that has gotten significant dieback is a Smyrna Quince (not espaliered), which will probably come out in favor of a Northstar cherry. I think the key to the trees' happiness has been a drip watering system, which is set to give them a decent soaking once a week in the summer. The dwarf apples in particular have limited root systems that really appreciate coddling. Grapes seem to work well around here, depending on the variety (though the local raccoons are very attuned to them). There are a couple of peaches in our neighborhood, and they seem to get frosted at least half the time. Let me know if you have other questions. Ian

PART I "I said, you are about to hurt yourself silly. And don't forget your necklace on the way out." I turned around, startled "Huh?... What??" I sorta said out loud to the chilly, golden light of the early Spring morning. I wasn't aware that a tree could sigh and speak in the same moment of time, but I experienced it in this way. "You're sweet, but go home to your kid and make yourself a nice cuppa joe, cuz It's not gonna happen". Just then, the 20 year old, 7 foot tall , Contorted Filbert Tree did it's best Guido - "ForGEHT about it". As my thoughts scrambled to present a solution, it became clearer to me while I dug a radial trench around the drip line . The careful work of my shovel was revealing a 2" thick root system, and I thought, the answer to today's transplant/relocation endeavor might be; "Damn. You're right. I know your probably right. I need to take a break and think about this. I'll be back in an hour. Don't go anywhere..." "If you say so..." "But believe you me, when I tell you, I'm not going anywhere today." Three yellow finches flitted as they merged within the inner canopy of this otherworldly specimen, this magnificent Hazelnut, who's future was on the chopping block of it's existence. The new home owner's botanical sentiments being, "Curly whatever's just not our thing, ya know? " No. I didn't "know". "We want it gone because we are going to put in a fabulous stone stairway from our front door to the sidewalk, and that helps keep the carpets cleaner." I literally bit my tongue and flinched from the pain. I needed a quick mantra before my tongue recovered enough for ego to make a bigger mess than this pile of dirt I'd been digging up. "Focus on the tree, the tree is your focus. Focus on the tree, the tree is your focus." How do you make it your goal to stay in the good graces of someone you don't agree with or hold respect for? By remembering they are you. If I pick this battle, I am jousting with an aspect of myself, albeit one I may have grown away from. Somewhere in my shadow is the quality of preferring nice carpets over sacred old growth trees. Not today. Invoke love, not ego's spite - thoughts of being better for experiencing reverence for this living symbol of life's bridge between worlds. I did some affirmative nodding while projecting a thoughtful countenance and said, "Yes, yes. Let me see what I can do - the root ball is getting a good soak, so I'll be back in a bit with some help". I left with my necklace still dangling on one of the tree's lower limbs. Earlier that morning, when I first arrived, I offered my respects and sought the tree's permission for the task at hand, offering a bit of brown bread and ale, and hung my stone on it's branch as a calling card. Now, I kinda felt silly for the whole thing, because I could have just asked. Who knew? Wood could talk. PART II When I returned to the site, it was not with help and it was not with cakes and ale and a reverent attitude. I plopped down under the branches atop a large, well established ground root, which had surfaced itself long ago into just the right shape to keep my backside from slipping off down the slight decline of the current landscape. A landscape scheduled, soon, for sheer destruction. A little flock of purple Crocus shuddered together in unison, causing a usually cheerful patch of Forget Me Nots to worry that their namesake would be for naught. "Pull up a chair. Talk to me". Why did I get the feeling I was the one being comforted? I was curious about the calm demeanor emanating from this non-human entity in the face of it's hingey future. I thought about this Filbert Tree being felled for selfish, cosmetic purposes. "..but, you're so beautiful... you're - so beautiful", was all the internal language I could come up with. Could I really get teary over this? "Hey, I brought espresso, biscotti, pears, and a cheese c.., canna, cannelloni." I said, in a morning-breakfast-picnic-voice. "Would you care for any?" In the original draft of this writing, the spell checker went off on me as I typed this last line, listing the goodies. So did the tree, right then. "Holly Saint Julian, no, It's, ... CAHN-uh-LOWWW-nee. Bees-CAA-tee." "What do you know of St. Julian?" I asked, between cookie bites. And without saying so, I understood the tree to take it's coffee with 4 packs of sugar, and that the Finch Clan would have a bit of the ricotta filling from my pastry-pronunciation-disaster. "She was a dancer." Right, no. I was expecting anything but that misinformed answer. But, to remain respectful, here...I responded in the least patronizing tone possible, "Okay, - really? She danced?" "Yup. That is just exactly what I originally meant to say. She- was- a -dancer. And, she IS the patron Saint of all things Hazel." Okay. I thought, now I'm talking to a Catholic tree. Maybe the original owners of the property were Italian Roman Catholics, which could then do my needy, pitiful, Gemini mind a favor, and throw me a bone. That info could wrap me up one clean, tidy, logical explanation of this Goodfella sounding Filbert with it's East Coast pizza-pie accent. So I asked. " I was wondering about the other family, if they....." "Nope. Not even close. And no cigars from Cuba, either. Atheists. They was both of them math teachers, no time for the Who-What-When-Wheres & Whys of 'Thee Uni-verse'." Awesome. At this point, I just wanted to munch on my pear for a minute, and process my head. I flashed to the other night, in my son's room, helping him with his homework. "Mom, do you hear that?" "Hear What?" I said. "That really fast piano music, like a chase scene in a cartoon?" He explained. "You don't hear it?" He was asking, worriedly. I said, "Well....not right this minute, but if you give me a chance I might hear it..." His eyes started to water up as he asked, "Mom, am I crazy for hearing music by myself?" I said, "Not even a little. I think you are ready for piano lessons, that's all." I promised him, "Hey, everyone in the world hears someone saying their name just before they doze off. Just ask around. Its very, very, common." I thought, now would not be the time to share with him about these tree talks. Later, for that. So, I took another bite of pear. "Yup. A- tee-yests." ...cont'd (c) E. Wyndrose

While I’m thinking about the orchard and waiting for it to wake up from the winter, I figured now might be a good time to give an update on my hobby orchard. See the first post in this thread for more background info. My recording thermometer in the orchard confirms that the location is solidly in zone 4a, with the lows over the last 4 winters being -23F, -29F, -35F, and -25F. In addition to the cold injury and highly variable spring temperatures, disease has emerged as a serious problem that I need to get under control. It looks likely that I will lose 3 or 4 of my 7 apple trees to fireblight, and I have lost an alarming number of stone fruit trees to some sort of disease, possibly bacterial canker. I know that you are supposed to prune stone fruit after leaf out because of disease concerns, but I hadn’t seen any disease in the orchard and got lazy and pruned my stone fruits in April of 2016 along with everything else. Most of those pruned stone fruits died that summer L. I had been trying to only spray the trees when I saw a problem, but I’ve decided to spray with a combined insect/fungal spray once per month. And I will not prune stone fruits till summer, and even then I will try to disinfect pruners and do as little pruning as I can get away with. On to the individual variety info… Honeyberries: I’ve got one bush each of Borealis, Tundra, and an unspecified pollinator. All are very slow growing. They look happy enough, but the largest is only ~3ft (1m) tall and wide after 4 growing seasons. There were a handful of flowers each of the last two years, and I saw a few green berries last year, but they disappeared before they were fully ripe. I didn’t see any berry carcasses on the ground, so I suspect birds/rodents. Blueberries (multiple bushes of each variety): Herbert: Significant winter damage the winter when we had -35F, but still alive and producing berries. Patriot: Hardier than I expected as it only received tip damage during the -35F winter. Good producer. St. Cloud: Only slight winter damage. Good producer Polaris: Smallest of the bushes. Surprisingly died back to snow line during the -35F winter. Northblue: No winter damage at all. Modest producer. Wild Highbush: 2 bushes found wild on the property and transplanted to the orchard. There shouldn’t be any wild highbush plants that can survive anywhere near this area, but there they were. Definitely smaller berries than the cultivated varieties, but I would say they are somewhat larger than the wild lowbush blueberries that are all over the area. The bushes are at least 4ft tall and even wider than that. Two out of the three years they have been there, they have produced copiously. No winter damage. I might start trying to layer these to make more. Raspberries: Pequot(black): Died to snowline during -35F winter, but seem to be OK out to the tips after the most recent -25F winter. Haven’t gotten any berries yet due to heavy deer browsing. I didn’t expect to need to cage raspberries since there are numerous wild raspberries and blackberries in the woods that manage to survive the deer. I guess these are just too tempting sticking out obviously in the middle of a field. I’ve lightly caged them now, so hopefully they can get some good growth. Autumn Bliss(primocane red): Also heavily deer browsed, but I did get a handful of berries both from summer and fall harvests last year. Large, soft berries that seemed fairly bland. Maybe it was just a bad year. Many berries had Asian fruit fly larvae inside. Moderate spreading through runners. Canes surprisingly died down to snow line after -25F this past winter. Not really a problem as I’m planning to manage them for primocane harvest only. These are now lightly caged as well. Cherry: Lapins: Winter damaged its first year and completely killed by -29F in its second winter. Mesabi: Planted 2016 to replace Lapins, and made it through -25F this past winter with no noticeable damage. Evans(aka Bali): This had been my most promising tree in the entire orchard. Grew from ~18” (0.5m) to over 10ft (3m) in 3 seasons and was covered in flowers the last two springs(though no cherries). Leafed out fine and flowered last year after the early pruning, but by mid-late summer the vast majority of the tree was dead. L Bark on part of the trunk had split by fall, so I suspect bacterial canker? There is a sprout coming off the trunk an inch or two above the soil line that was still alive last fall. Hopefully it survives. The really unfortunate part is that a root sucker (it is a tissue cultured tree) popped up a few feet away from the tree when the main trunk started dying, but that sucker accidentally got mowed down. Carmine Jewel (UofS bush): 2 bushes. Growing very well and covered in flowers the last two springs. Seemed to set some fruit last year, but they all dropped. Both now about 5ft tall. One is showing serious signs of disease with a big split on the bark of the main trunk and about half the top looking dead. Perhaps due to bacterial canker from pruning too early? One plant has a root sucker that is growing very well, hopefully the diseased one puts up a sucker before it dies. Crimson Passion (UofS bush): 2 bushes. Very similar story to the other UofS bushes. Growing very well and covered in flowers the last two springs. Seemed to set some fruit last year, but they all dropped. Both now about 5ft tall. One showed extremely pale looking leaves last summer, but no other obvious signs of disease and looks alive now. Peach: Had a McKay and a Contender. Both grew OK during their first year and then died completely during the first winter. Apricots(planted 2015 to replace the peaches): Westcot: Never really seemed to grow well after planted. Showed signs of possible winter (dead tips) damage after -35F winter. Dead by late summer of their second year. Possibly another victim of bacterial canker? Debbies Gold: Never really seemed to grow well after planted. Showed signs of possible winter (dead tips) damage after -35F winter. Dead by late summer of their second year. Possibly another victim of bacterial canker? Plum: Black Ice: Grew well for 2 years with no winter damage. Flowers in the 2nd and 3rd springs. In summer of third year, leaves turned pale and then yellowed. Tree died by September. I have no explanation for the leaf color changing, but I did prune the tree that year in May. Perhaps some disease was transmitted then? Maybe it was bacterial canker again? But no signs of issues on the trunk. Superior: Same story as Black Ice. Grew extremely vigorously for 2 years with no winter damage. Flowers in the 2nd and 3rd springs. In summer of third year, leaves turned pale and then yellowed. Tree died by September. I have no explanation for the leaf color changing, but I did prune the tree that year in May. Perhaps some disease was transmitted then? Maybe it was bacterial canker again? But no signs of issues on the trunk. American Plum Seedling: Planted as a pollinator for Black Ice and Superior. Has grown vigorously every year with a very twiggy habit. Flowered every spring except first, though no fruit yet. Pruned every year, but has shown no signs of disease. Waneta: planted spring 2017 as a companion for the American plum seedling. Green Gage: Planted 2016. Very sad looking all year and never really grew. Looks dead now, but won’t know for sure till after leaf-out. Opal: Planted 2016. Very sad looking all year and top never really grew. Quite a few root suckers, but the top might be dead. Won’t know for sure till after leaf-out. Pear: Hudar: Died back to 12” first winter. Died to snowline 2nd winter. Supposedly hardy to zone 3. Pulled out because I did not expect it to ever really grow. Nova: Some winter damage both of first two years, but multiple catalog sources indicate this should be OK to zone 3. Accidentally killed in 2015 while working nearby. Replanted with a new Nova tree in 2016. Didn’t put much growth on and looked dead in early September. I thought it was done for, but there was still green under the bark in October as well as this spring all the way out to the tips, so maybe it just went dormant super-early last year for some reason. Will know more in a month. Patten: Planted 2016 to replace Hudar. Grew well in first year and looks like no winter damage. Stacey (aka Stacyville): Planted 2017. Grapes: Sommerset Seedless: Planted 2014. Barely survived first year with little growth. Entire top died over first winter, but tiny root suckers grew up during the summer. I judged them too small to be worth keeping, so I killed them end of 2015. Replanted with same variety from a different source in 2016. Grew OK and actually ended up with one tiny cluster of blueberry-sized grapes that I didn’t see earlier or I would have pruned off. The grapes didn’t actually fully ripen, but still had that delicious strawberry flavor that people mention. The small (~3’, 1m) vines were laid down for the winter. Took significant winter damage, but areas low down look alive. Pruned down to live areas (~8”) and tied up to fencing. Bluebell: Planted 2014. Poor growth the first year. Did not survive to the second spring. Replanted with the same variety from a different source in 2016. Grew well over the first summer. Took some Japanese beetle damage. 4-5’ vines laid down over the winter. Tips look dead, but much of the vines alive. Pruned to a pair of 2’ stems this spring and tied up onto some fencing. Marquette: Two plants planted in 2014. Decent growth in first year. Didn’t appear to harden off the first fall. Both tops appeared to winter-kill, but one had strong growth from a root sucker. The other died. The dead plant was replaced with the same variety from a different source in 2016. The originally surviving plant had some tip die-back, but most of stem was alive even after -35F winter. It was pruned back to just a few buds. Both new and old plants grew well last year. The older plant had flower clusters, but I pruned off all but one small cluster. The new plant grew to ~5’ and the older one grew to ~8’. The one cluster grapes tasted pretty good in early October (especially for one that is primarily intended to be a wine grape). Some winter tip damage on both plants this year, but majority of the stems seemed OK. Smaller plant pruned to just a few buds, larger plant with multiple fairly thick stems was pruned to two 3’ (1m) stems that I hope will become permanent heads for an umbrella-kniffen pruning system on my fencing. American Cranberry: Planted in 2014. Stevens variety. I don’t give them any protection over the winter. Leaves turn purple each fall and remain purple till May, when they green up and start growing. Some minor rodent damage with tips nipped off one winter, but no noticeable winter damage. It is not in any sort of wet area. Just in an acidic, sandy area next to the blueberries (they like similar soil). Flowers in June. Got a half-dozen berries the 2nd year and ~2 cups worth in the 3rd year (last year). The patch started as two 4” potted plants that were each split in half and planted in a ~18” (0.5m) square pattern. The patch filled in nicely with runners, but hasn’t spread like I was hoping. It is about 24” square now. If it doesn’t start spreading this year, I might buy some lingonberries to go in the area where I was expecting the cranberries to grow into. Apples: Honeycrisp: Planted 2013. Grew solidly each year. Now ~10’. Never any noticeable winter damage. Very nice branch structure with little pruning needed. Had some flowers last spring. Last fall something didn’t seem right with a number of my apple trees, including this one. I’m fairly new to orcharding, and certainly to disease recognition. Areas of the branches and stem had a dark gray color and lichen is growing on it, so I was starting to suspect fireblight. The dark areas are even more prominent now, and I’m convinced that it is a major fireblight infection. Looks like the main trunk may be girdled by the infection. This tree might be a lost cause. Chestnut Crab: Planted 2013. Has grown well each year. Needed a ladder to prune this year, perhaps 13’ (4m) tall. No winter damage any year. Flowers the last two springs, but no apples yet. Might be showing early signs of fireblight, but it’s not as obvious as on other apples, so I’m not sure. Sweet Sixteen: Planted 2016. Grew well last year and looks happy with no signs of winter damage. Liberty: Planted 2016. Most places say this variety shouldn’t be hardy enough for zone 4a, but I saw somebody down the road had a moderate-sized tree, and he said he’s had it for 6+ years (including at least one winter with -35F), so I put one in. No sign of winter damage after its first winter. With the recent fireblight outbreak, I’m glad I have at least one highly resistant variety planted. Ashmead’s Kernel: Planted 2013. Never grew much at all. Showed winter damage at least two years and was showing signs of disease. Barely alive after 3 years, so I put it out of its misery in fall of 2015. Dabinett: Always broke bud later than other varieties and always looked dead, but kept coming alive for a few years, albeit with winter tip damage. Never grew much. Finally died in 2015. Honeygold: Planted 2013. Had minimal roots when planted, so I didn’t expect much. But it grew like crazy and never looked back. Never any winter damage. Tallest tree in the orchard at ~14’. Flowers the last two springs, but no apples. I had high hopes for it. Much like the Honeycrisp, something didn’t look right last summer/fall. Looks to be a serious fireblight infection that is likely to kill the tree. Golden Russet: Planted 2013. Grew modestly each year. Now ~8’. Some minor winter damage some years, and never seemed to thrive. Never seemed to want to form a central leader. Seems like it is showing signs of serious fireblight now. I don’t have high hopes for this tree. Wealthy: Planted 2014. Grows solidly each year with no signs of winter damage. Every year there are lots of sprouts from below the graft, but the top keeps growing fine. No flowers yet, but hopefully this is the year. No sign of fireblight. Hazelnuts: Skinner x (Graham and Winkler): 4 seedlings. Should be blight and cold tolerant. Purchased from Saint Lawrence nursery, where I saw the parents. The parents were impressive >15’ (3m) hedges, though they did not appear to have many nuts when I saw them. I was also told by a hazelnut breeder that any nuts from them are likely to be small. All 4 are growing well with 3 out of the 4 showing zero winter damage. The 4th only has dieback on the catkins. The actual vegetative buds have not been damaged. I got a total of 3 nuts from 2 of these bushes in 2015. They were dime and penny sized before shelling. Tasted good. No nuts last year. All of these are 7-8’ tall. They all harden off very well each fall. Yamhill: This is a commercial Oregon variety with big nuts that is blight tolerant, but probably cold sensitive. It has showed tip dieback each winter and died to ground one winter, but survived the -35F winter with only tip dieback and has been gaining in size for the last two years, so maybe it will actually survive long-term. It actually even has catkins this spring. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. I’m willing to tolerate frequent minor winter damage from this plant if it can provide some commercial-sized nuts when we get an occasional, mild winter. H2R8P47 X H3R13P40: Should be blight and cold tolerant. Two of these seedlings. Some tip damage each winter and one died to snowline during the -35F winter. Now 5-7’, but cold hardiness has not been as good as hoped, especially since these are likely to produce small nuts. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. Luvalls #3 X Santiam: Should be blight tolerant and have decent nuts. Two of these seedlings. Tip damage some winters, but not every year. ~5-6’ tall. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall, but these are showing some promise. LaFeuillage X H3R13P40: Should be cold hardy, but blight tolerance unknown. Showed no winter damage any year. Now 6’ and for the first time has a few catkins and I think even a few flowers. Definitely encouraging. Luvalls #3 X H3R13P40: Should be blight tolerant, but with questionable cold hardiness. More tip damage than most and died to ground one winter. Doesn’t seem to consistently harden off in fall. Only 4’. This is a candidate to get yanked at some point if I need more room. Badgersett Hazels: Hopefully 4 of them going in this summer, if they ever show up. Chestnuts: 8 seedlings that were crosses of various amounts of Chinese and American parentage. Not going to spend any time describing them because most have completely died. I think 3 are still alive, but have died to the snow line or ground level each winter. These will get pulled. I do have 4 Badgersett chestnuts on order that should show up soon. These are probably also a stretch for 4a, but dammit, I want Chestnuts!