Space Heater Advice
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anyone with experience with antique gas space heater installation
Comments (10)I have restored 6 Victorian homes over a twenty year period. I have always bought Humphrey gas heaters that were in good shape, ordered replacement ceramics if needed from a company in New York and had a plumber install them. Did the same with my Magic Chef gas stoves. Never had any trouble, they fit nicely in old coal burning fireplaces and work when ice or snow knocks out power. They are reliable and I hope you find a safety valve installation if the guy has scared you to death. The above hvac dude may never have seen one of these fully lit. It would take a hurricane to blow out the entire fire base as it rises up the ceramics, you don't have a pilot light going like on old wall heaters, to turn it on, you have to roll the gas knob and light a match, no pilot to be blown out. Then you turn it off when not in use, shutting off the gas completely....See MoreSpace heater vs furnace in unevenly heated house
Comments (8)Could it possibly be a decent option to partially close the vents themselves? I'd read last year that it wasn't an energy efficient option, so I didn't do it, BUT I just discovered yesterday that the ducts going to those vents can't be more than a few feet long. I can't see the ducts (or whether they have dampers) because they are in the ceiling, but the vents are right above the furnace, so it has to be a pretty short line. All of the questions that were asked earlier, I am going to try to answer, but I'm sort of overwhelmed with knowing how much I don't know! I'm going to look for the supplies for the duct joints. That seems like something I can do. I went crazy with the insulation on the ducts in the crawlspace last year, and I don't feel ANY heat blowing, though I can feel a small amount of radiant heat when I touch the insulation around the ducts. The insulation I used is Ayr Foil Reflective Insulation. The landlord...he's a nice guy, but he's not very quick about making repairs that aren't emergencies. If I buy some materials, he would probably reimburse us, BUT I don't want to nickel and dime him, as we have an *amazing* rent rate for this neighborhood, and I'd like to keep things positive. kwim? I looked up supply plenum- is that the big square duct-like thing coming directly off the furnace? If so, it comes UP from the furnace, goes up to the ceiling (THIS is where I think the ducts going upstairs branch off), turns a corner, runs about 10 feet along the ceiling, turns to run halfway down the wall and into the crawl space. Immediately inside the crawlspace, it branches into 3 round ducts. Each duct is from 10-15 feet long before it reaches it's vent. Those are the ducts that I insulated last year. There are no vents in between. It seems to be just a very inefficient system, due to how far the heat has to travel to get to it's destination. Or maybe that's not necessarily inefficient? But if it is, then maybe using something to help heat the living room, while turning the furnace down a bit, would be useful? I guess I need to focus on weather proofing the downstairs/living room area. I am NOT going to put plastic on the windows that will cover the windowsills (that's where my plants live), but I'm open to pretty much any an all other suggestions. Even if they aren't especially pretty to look at. Here is a link that might be useful: Ayr Foil...See MoreOne VERY cold room: Space heater options?
Comments (2)I would second the motion on a mini split heat pump, because the actual workhorse sits outdoors on the ground and the condenser mounts high near the ceiling. I installed a Fujitsu model a few years back in my kitchen/dining room. You could barely hear it run. the air dehumidifies and cools in summer, and reverses action to heat in winter. It will sweep the heat flow or fix it across the room or down to the floor. The unit is a very efficient. As an alternate heat choice without the summer cooling option, you might have a local gas company size the room to see if a Rinnai gas space heater would fit below one of the windows....See MoreWater Heater PRV Discharge Line into Crawl Space?
Comments (7)Code requires that both the water heater PRV discharge line and the furnace condensate line must either terminate to free air outside the structure or into an approved "indirect waste receptor" The termination point of a PRV discharge line must point downward. When extending a pipe through a footer wall we must install a 90deg elbow on the end of the line to turn it downwards. (This is to minimize the risk of scalding water spraying out of the line and hitting someone standing near the point of discharge) Under the IRC when terminating outdoors the line must terminate within 6" of finished grade. Under the UPC it must terminate between 6" and 24" above finished grade. When terminating into the house DWV system or a storm drain system such as you have the PRV line must terminate a minimum of 2" above the flood level rim of the drain receptor, whether that is a floor drain, utility sink or a sump vessel. (The intended purpose of the 2" air gap is to prevent bacteria from entering the line and potentially going up the line and into the heater vessel.) In your case, you could install a tee on the storm drain line and stub a section of the storm drain up slightly above grade, then mount your PRV discharge line pointing down into the open standpipe. Just make sure that the bottom of the PRV line is 2" above the highest level of the riser from the tee. (Note, your 4" line is a storm drain therefore you are not required to install a P-trap below the riser.)...See More- last year
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