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What forum to post ???s about telephone wiring problem?
Comments (15)Thanks for the info kurto, but maybe you didn't completely read my last post (yep, I know its kind of long). Or, maybe I didn't explain things properly. At all three jacks, I only have a line in. Also, there is only one line that runs down to the utility room. Thats why I said above that I thought this indicates that there is a secondary termination block somewhere. One that runs the one line down the utility room and then branches off into three lines to supply the three jacks. I'm only guessing on this one. So, I know where this line ends at the jack, but I have no idea where it begins. Besides, I probably can't gain access to it because I don't have an attic. As well, the connections to all the jacks, including the one that doesn't work are good. Also, all the jacks have been tested and are in good working order. This seems to only leave a problem with this one line that goes from this one jack in the living room to who knows where. If the directions that came with this tester/toner were a little more explanatory, I could figure out how to test the line and what the results tell me. But its not and I can't. Can't find anything anywhere online either. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!! :)...See MoreMore trouble with this forum.
Comments (1)Check if you have signed out from the other computer first. It shouldn't really be doing that though. I access GW from 2 computers and I have no such issue. Also try deleting the cookies and clearing up the cache of your browser....See MoreGrout problems with new tile floor (X-post with Kitchens forum)
Comments (4)Most likely it's what the other posters mentioned: Floor movement. It can either be because the floor structure itself (joists/subfloor/underlayment) is not structurally sufficient for the tile you selected, or... It can be that the way the tile backer board and the tile itself was installed is unsound. The #1 reason that I see failed grout is movement within the floor. It's typically because the backer board used as an intermediary between the subfloor/underlayment and the tile was improperly installed. The common thread that I've seen in improper backer board installation is the installer simply sets the cement backer board down on the subfloor/underlayment and then fastens it with screws/nails, then tiles. Instead, thinset should be troweled on the subfloor/underlayment, the backer board should be bedded in the thinset, and then it should be fastened in place with nails or screws. The thinset isn't for bonding. The fasteners do that. The thinset fills any micro-voids between the subfloor/underlayment and the backer board. Without the thinset, there can be minor vertical movement within the installation. Rigid tiles and rigid grout tend to not do well when installed on a surface that can flex. Bedding the backer board in thinset is a part of the installation instructions for most tile backer boards. The second part, using the old grout? Portland cement-based grouts cures via hydration. They consume water and a chemical reaction occurs. Grouts in unopened packages have a typical shelf life of about six months or so. Some longer. Once the package is opened, over time and with exposure to air, the grout in the opened package can react with moisture in the atmosphere. In the opened package it may still look okay. Or it may be slightly clumped, the clumps may be easily broken up. But by having already reacted with some atmospheric moisture, the strength of the old grout can be some or significantly less that the strength of new grout. The lessened bond strength can result in the old grout cracking in the joint, or simply powdering away over time. Cracked grout can also be from too much water used when mixing it, and/or when cleaning the grout from the tile faces. The excess water reduces the strength of the grout. The cracked tile could be from one of a few things, but usually it's from floor movement with a well-bonded tile. Instead of the thinset failing and the tile itself popping loose, the tile itself fails....See MoreCamellia problem but in can’t start a new discussion on that forum.
Comments (5)Sheila and John, You’ve both just confirmed what I’ve suspected and I’m so relieved… the temperature fluctuations and warmer winters are most likely causing the issue. I do use an acid lover’s fertilizer and Bonide liquid rose and camellia 6 week 3 in 1 for fertilizing and diseases as well. All my camellias love the fertilizers and soil… they put on great green new growth and lots of buds. While I just haven’t gotten around to getting our soil ph tested, I can tell you that it is very very heavy clay. I have drip irrigation because we hardly get any rain all year and I do monitor the soil moisture level because of the clay and other plants are around them getting water. Sometimes I turn their irrigation off. These three camellias are on the north side of the house, which is situated slightly to the east, as the camellia on the right gets the most sun, pretty much all day sun. They got a little sun burn the first year but that was it, even on 90+ degree days when my roses singed, they were troopers. I do need to mulch more. Some of the Japonicas, including one of these On The Pinks do have grayish pin prick sized dots on the fronts and backs of their leaves. I don’t know what they are but they don’t appear to be affecting the health of the plants. It seems it’s the two Japonicas that get the least amount of sun. I’ll post a few pics of the leaves a bit later, I have to go take them. All in all I have 9 camellias. The others are: 2 Sasanqua Chansonette, 2 Japonica Nuccio’s Bella Rossa, and 2 Japonica EG Waterhouse. I purchased Bella Rossa and Waterhouse from Nuccio’s. They’re so great! They did tell me that the Japonicas could take the all day sun once they adjusted, however, I do find that the bigger leafed Japonicas like Bella Rossa and In The Pink may take it better than the smaller leafed Waterhouse. Sometimes the japonicas drop a good amount of their leaves. I don’t know why, the leaves aren’t discolored, damaged or deformed, but they grow back in spring. Now, my Waterhouse is starting to bloom, which is 2-3 weeks earlier than last year, but last year was their first year in the ground and they did come from more north in California than where I’m at. My Bella Rossas opened a month later this year at Christmas, than last year at Thanksgiving. The first blooms on that one don’t open up all the way but the subsequent ones do. Can’t figure that out either. I’m thinking a shot of fertilizer might help to boost the blooms? Thank you both for your help and great advice!...See More- last year
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