Q: Electrical Issue — Circuit breaker going off
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Electric Fence: circuit breaker trips when ground is connected
Comments (7)Plenty of if's, and's, and but's, but you can be creative on your grounding, but I wouldn't try it with an AC charger. If lightning strikes your fence and the charger isn't grounded, your house wiring will take the hit. I use solar and battery operated chargers with the 1 ft ground stake but my fences are no more than 600 meters long and the ground is moist. Lightning strikes ruin only the charger (if the lightning kits don't work). For me, AC chargers aren't worth the hassel of installing them to a standard that will keep your insurance rates reasonable and damages fixed by the insurance company if something happens. Dave...See MoreHuskee electrical issue in ignition circuit
Comments (13)Though I believe kanmkk is a transient, "one hit wonder", I will address the issue in hopes somebody will benefit from it. While the wiring diagram provided by corvetteguy might not be the "same" as for the Huskee in the OP, it is nonetheless "generic enough" to serve as a guide for hunting down a short circuit. If I were doing the search, I would have my camera with me to shoot photos of the configuration of the wiring at each component and/or draw a sketch of the same so I would know exactly how the wires were routed, and how they connected to the component. When checking for a short, it is sometimes neccesary to disconnect a wiring harness section from one or more components so the harness can be brought out into the "open" for a close inspection. So you'll be able to return the harness to its previous location and with the proper routing, photos are great, and a sketch with notes is a good addition or substitute. I do both. In looking for a short, you need to use all due safety precautions, you already know there is some kind of fault in the system, or you wouldn't be doing this. In regard to safety around the battery, you should disconnect the BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE from the battery BEFORE you begin your search. This way, you will be working with an "inert" electrical system during the process of disconnecting/reconnecting wiring and/or electrical components. The BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE can be reconnected at any time in the search if you want to check whether the fuse still "blows". On a typical small tractor battery, I use either a small vise grips plier, or an alligator type spring clamp to hold the BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE in place on the battery post during the search instead of using the normal bolt and nut. The vise grips or alligator clamp allow you to "snatch" the cable away quickly if you need to. To perform the checks by the following method, you will need an ohm meter, or a "continuity" tester. I prefer a continuity tester that has an audible beep or tone indicating continuity because you can use it in confined areas where reading the visual scale may be difficult. Continuity testers that use an LED indicator are good too. Some continuity testers feature both the audible and LED, some have both and an ohm meter as well. All continuity testers and ohm meters have an internal battery for power and should never be used to check continuity with the vehicle battery connected to the electrical system. OK, disconnect the battery negative cable and let's start looking. If the system fues is blown or removed, install a good fuse of the proper Ampacity. Step 1. Beginning at the key switch, disconnect the entire wiring harness from the switch if a single plug connector is used by the OEM. If individual terminals are used, disconnect the terminal that corresponds to the "B" terminal on the key switch in the furnished diagram. Isolating the key switch in this step will test for a short in the wiring between the fuse and the "B" terminal of the key switch. Connect one lead of the continuity tester to the DISCONNECTED battery negative CABLE, or any other good, clean, unpainted metal surface of the frame of tractor. Test the CONTINUITY TESTER by touching a few other surfaces that you know should be "continuous" with the ground system of the tractor. Essentially, if you are connected to a ground surface anywhere on the vehicle, the tester should show continuity whenever you touch any other ground surface of the vehicle. If the tester shows to be working and that the ground system of the vehicle is "sound", we can begin testing some wiring now. Leave one lead of the tester connected to ground and touch the other test lead end to the wire that connects to the "B" terminal of the key switch (touch the wire, not the key switch). If the tester indicates continuity, it means there is a short to ground somewhere in this circuit. To further check for the location of the short, go to the ammeter (if present) and disconnect both wires at the ammeter terminals. Touch the free lead of the continuity tester to either wire terminal on the ammeter, if the tester indicates continuity, the ammeter is shorted internally. If the ammeter shows to be good, touch the tester lead to either of the wires that you disconnected from the ammeter. If one of the wires shows continuity, that wire/circuit is shorted to ground and you will now have to trace that wire physically to locate the short. Logical places to look are where the wire harness bends around a metal surface edge or goes through a hole in a metal surface. If this test does not indicate a short, go to the next step. Step 2. Go to the key switch. Make sure the key switch is in the OFF position. Connect one lead of the continuity tester to the GROUND TERMINAL of the key switch. On the wiring diagram provided, this terminal is "G". This terminal is where the key switch gets furnished with its connection to the vehicle ground, but we don't need for the switch to have an actual connection to ground to do the following tests, the key switch could be tested even if it were removed from the vehicle and placed on a workbench (non metallic bench). First, check the tester by touching the two leads together (you always want to know that the tester works beforehand). With one test lead on "G" terminal, touch the other lead to the "M" terminal on the switch. You SHOULD HAVE continuity between the "G" & "M" terminals at this time because continuity between those two terminals is what "kills" the ignition spark to stop the engine. Leaving one test lead connected to the "G" terminal, touch the other lead to the "B" terminal of the switch. You should NOT HAVE continuity between these two terminals. If you DO HAVE continuity, the key switch is shorted to ground internally. I expect a short to be found in Step 1 or Step 2 if the fuse was blowing with the key switch in the OFF position. If this test does not reveal a short, we will go to Step 3. (to be posted later if the first two tests sessions do not locate a short)....See MoreOdd circuit layout (2 breakers on the same conduit)
Comments (8)I am just borrowing terms from them Please don't; it confuses things when you use nonstandard terms. What you mean by breaker handles tied That means the handles are mechanically joined, so they can't operate separately. If one trips, the other opens. If one is shut off, the other is too. Thus, they work like a double-pole breaker, which may also be used. I have kept his weird labelling scheme for now. What you did was OK except that the ground should be connected to the box (if it's metallic). You also could have fitted a properly sized double pole breaker to the panel, and connected the hots to it. You'd also have needed to pigtail the neutrals so removing one of the recepts wouldn't break it. Am I going to find other surprises in my wiring Probably. Almost every house I've ever lived in has had some (usually unpleasant) wiring surprises. Sometimes it's pros, but I suspect that more often it's DIYs. DIY wiring has been around for a long time, and too many DIYers don't learn code or proper techniques before plowing ahead....See MoreExchanging circuit breakers?
Comments (6)Normel: Thanks for replying--I understand where you're coming from. I guess it still isn't too clear to me what the OP means by "hooked up with a 20a breaker on the left side and a 20a breaker on the right side". I don't know whether that means the breakers are on the same pole, exactly to the left and right of each other on opposite sides of the panel. My preference for MW cc's (and code now, I believe, in those jurisdictions using new NEC version) is to use two-pole breakers or, at least, to use handle ties. That more or less ensures the breakers are not on the same pole and also means the neutral won't be carrying current when one but not both of the breakers are turned off. But it's an issue that's come up before in this forum and there are at least a few sparkies here who argue that sometimes a feller's gotta put the breakers where slots permit, so long as he's sure they're not on the same pole. I think this OP's probably gone now, but I did want to raise the possibility that the overall wiring may be OK, but there's another garden-variety reason a breaker is tripping now and then. It seems to me that's at least as likely as concluding an electrician totally bungled the job. And while I agree that a miswired multiwire circuit can lead to an overloaded neutral, that's not likely to be the cause of the intermittant breaker tripping, given the infor provided in the post. I dunno. YMMV. Thanks again and cheers, Tom...See More- last year
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