It sounds like you have a good contractor! It is important to have proper slope to the drain in a shower (typically 1/4"-1/2" per foot I believe) in order to make certain the water goes into the drain and doesn't just pool on the floor. Probably even more important in your case where you have a curbless entry. Because of that slope and obviously tiles being rigid, you need the tiles to be small enough to conform to that slope without creating lippage between the tiles.

This older thread has a great comment from MongoCT talking about it.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2268601/maximum-tile-size-for-shower-floor

If you were doing square tiles, your contractor could cut them down into smaller pieces within the shower. Not sure that's feasible with octagonal tiles. As Mongo says in that thread, if the shower slope has defined breaks, sometimes larger tiles can be used and cut along those breaks. If I were you, I'd ask the contractor what size is needed in the shower. Then either go with that size tile for the whole floor, or find one that has a smaller matching option for the shower area, or one that can be cut down into that size for the shower area.

You can use the larger tile, there is just a crap ton more labor to cut the tiles, you are making multiple tile cuts, cutting the tiles into wedges. This will throw the Hex look off as well as being a ton more labor. It also is above many tile installers skillset. If he is telling you no he is telling you he cannot do it. Forcing him to do it (if he even would entertain it) is setting yourself up for major disappointment.

I'd use a 2" hex.

More important is the DCOF rating. IF the DCOF is higher than .42, then an envelope cut can be done. But the slab will need to be cut down to build it back up in 4 quadrants. The whole room should be waterproofed, no matter the tile choice.

Could a linear drain work? I guess would still need the slope but at one end, not the center.

"Could a linear drain work? I guess would still need the slope but at one end, not the center."

Drain is in and they were getting ready to tile, little late for changing the drain now.

Your contractor is right, as is Mrs. Pete.

Luckily, you like an easy color to match. Home Depot has your grey hexagon in a smaller version.

If these aren’t small enough, do a more thorough search than I did.

At this stage small tile is your best solution. A linear drain would have given you the best chance to use the large tile you planned. However you’re past that point. I’m concerned about the apparent lack of waterproofing. ANSI and TCNA guidelines don’t appear to have been followed.

Use the larger tile on the bathroom floor and transition to a small tile on the shower floor

a good tile installler can certainly fit the tile to accomodate for the slope.

WHY is he using Ditra on the shower floor, rather than Kerdi? With an incorrect drain. And no waterproofing on the walls? Among other issues…

Was the tile for this bath below? This info is from the "bossy" contractor, with whom you've not been communicating all the details of the A frame?

The same guy who "has never done a floor without shoe mold in 30 years" ?

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6437683/non-slip-black-flooring-ideas-for-mom

Too late now, but bet me he's never done a linear drain, either.

What is the waterproof plan in there?

Thanks everyone for your helpful comments. Please clarify if you can about waterproofing concerns in this bathroom? I must check my photos from before drywall went in but I’m pretty certain there was waterproof barrier up on walls? And please explain it to me like I’m a 5th grader :) as I’m not super familiar with this area. Thx in advance!!

And Jan, the herringbone tile from my other post that you linked in your comment is for the main floor hallway/guest bathroom, AKA my mom’s bathroom. The current post is about the Main Suite bathroom, AKA my dad’s bathroom. Apparently they get along much better when they have 2 separate bathroom spaces. Sounds good to me! :)

Oh. And note to all: the bathroom has heated floor—No idea if that is relevant but does that possibly clarify the waterproofing choices here? Thx.

There is NO waterproofing on the walls. None at all. Ditra on the floor is an uncoupling membrane, not a waterproofing membrane. Post additional pictures. But this guy does not seem to have a clue.

Really?? This is a super legitimate contractor. Are you all certain there is no actual waterproofing in walls or on floor? Please clarify for me if you can.

Just call the Schluter hotline. They will tell you that Ditra is uncoupling and Kerdi is waterproofing. 1-888-472-4588. Someone managing a project of this scope should have read all the literature and watched their Youtube channel 18 months ago, at the planning stage. It is too late now..

Permabase and Ditra is a giant joke. This guy is clueless. As is the project manager/GC. Rot fest within 18 months.

Yikes. Is this something that is just a preference or is this not legally allowed by code??

I’m not a tile contractor but there are two kinds of permabase. The regular is water resistant. The product itself is not affected by water but the water can pass through. It would need a waterproofing product applied to keep water from wicking through into your walls. There is also a permabase wp that is waterproof but you don’t appear to have that. He may have done plastic behind the permabase which is the old fashioned way of waterproofing. Ditra is not for shower floors because it can’t wrap up the wall. You also will have no manufacturer warranty because it’s from several manufacturers. But you’ve been told it’s fine by the contractor.

That will not last 1 shower before water will be everywhere. I suppose no one performed the required leak test for the pan? You would get a red tag for that. A failed inspection and must redo.

I will definitely ask about all of this. Unfortunately if it does/did survive the leak test, does not mean will work ok when it is the real thing. I will look into this—thanks to all for bringing it to my attention.

" I suppose no one performed the required leak test for the pan "

Flood test, not a leak test and it is designed to make sure the pan drains properly. It is not required in most areas but is more a good practice.

As far as waterproofing, the Permabase is not taped and spackled with thinset and whatever that yellow is if it is waterproofing it looks awfully thin. So yes there definitely are waterproofing issues potentially.

That ditra looks like it is ditraheat, which IS approved for use in a shower. It gets covered with kerdi. However, the kerdi needs to wrap up the wall to make a waterproof joint. I agree you have waterproofing issues, but it's not because of the ditraheat in and of itself, but rather it's the sum of all the parts that need to work together.

Michelle - have you asked your contractor how he has constructed your shower? IF he used plastic sheeting or tar paper (roofing felt) on the wall studs - behind the (cement board) - your shower walls have been waterproofed. Surface waterproof membranes are used much more often now (either a liquid one that is rolled on or something like a Schluter surface membrane which is like a “wallpaper“ ) to waterproof cement board (foam boards are also used by themselves - like GoBoard or Kerdiboard - they are waterproof).

It’s better to confirm now than find out later that he failed to add the waterproofing behind the Permabase.

As already pointed out by Hallett & Co above, the Permabase installed by your contractor is not the waterproof type (it actually has the word ”waterproof” underneath ”Permabase”):

The other two types of Permabase cement boards are ”moisture and mold resistant” - not ”waterproof”:

Don’t ask him if he installed the plastic sheeting or felt behind it - let him explain how he constructed it. Unless you’ve taken photos along the way, how will you be able to confirm that either the plastic or felt is behind the cement board at this point? It’s better to let him explain instead of asking if it’s there - too easy for him to tell you that it was installed.