In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

I'm so grateful for this community! Denise, I love your ideas! I was trying to figure out where my office would go b/c I work from home. I'm sold on the hallway solution as well as opening up the space by installing either french doors or sliders as well as openings in the walls separating the kitchen & office from the living area. I'm also contemplating vaulting the ceiling to further open up the space. I could honestly go either way on the entrance. Whether I go with moving it to the office and installing large, double doors or leave it be will depend on where my budget is at after I fix the layout and redo the kitchen (shudder), master bath, guest bath, and install hardwoods. I took a chance and posted for the first time ever the other day because I was struggling to visualize how this space could be fully optimized. All of you have really helped me out with creative & lovely design ideas and encouragement! My place is 1855 sq ft on a 1/2 acre lot so there's no reason this house should be burdened by numerous small, dark rooms As an FYI, I'm a lawyer. That said, while I know my square footage is correct my room measurements are off. How much I'm not sure yet, but I know the living room is small, the "office" space is even smaller & at one time was used as a breakfast nook. The bedrooms and bathrooms are also small! For example, the master bath is just over 50 sq ft (!!!!). xoxo!!! Natasha

“I don't know why tile installers like to put grout where caulk should go.” Because it is a highly contentious recommendation by the TCNA and is not quite so firm as people here believe. Go over to the John Bridge forums and half of the pro’s there use grout instead of caulk whenever possible. The rule that many there use is caulk between floor and wall, but grout between counter and wall. The reason being, walls and floors are going to move separately. However, cabinets set on the floor but are attached to the wall and are likely to move with the wall. You get minimal, if any, cracking between counter and backsplash, especially if using a polymer modified grout. Grout is considered a permanent solution, where caulk is not. Grout should never need removal and reapplication, while caulk will. The TCNA seems to recognize that their recommendation is contentious because they also explain why installers may use grout. From the TCNA: Technically, anywhere there is a change in substrate or backing surface such as the joint between walks and floor and wall joint, caulk should be used in place of grout since these surfaces move independently of each other. However, it is important to recognize and make the end user aware of some important points. Often, installers use grout in place of caulk for these reasons: The caulk may not exactly match the grout color. Even when the caulk exactly matches the grout color when installed, it may not match six months later (caulk will “age” differently from the grout). Caulk will need to be maintained more often than grout. Mold may grow more easily on caulk (except caulk treated with mildewcide) than on grout. Acrylic caulks break down in horizontal wet applications. Silicone, urethane, or multi-polymer caulks are better choices but can be harder to apply.

I agree, no sign of a leak in the picture. The ranch baseboard appears to end with a square cut and not a mitered corner. Which ever molding you decide to continue, the existing ranch baseboard pictured will have to be removed and replaced with one mitered for the corner.